MAF Sensors - VEMO vs BOSCH
Hi and Hello:
Has anybody installed the replacement Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from VEMO? I prefer BOSCH but can't seem to find BOSCH at ipdUSA or FCP Euro. VEMO pn V95-72-0011 and BOSCH OEM pn 0280212016. Also, at ipdUSA a procedure is shown for checking MAF sensors on VOLVOs.
My car is 1992 VOLVO DL-240 with a 10-year-old BOSCH.MAF sensor. BOSCH design has a "hanging" wire, but VEMO has a board with electronics on it.in the air way passage. Testing my existing BOSCH shows measurements outside the range per ipdUSA video. Also, gas mileage is down, was getting 26 mph, now 22mpg. Winter gas is a possibility. but not clear if this is true, I live in Vermont. Oxygen sensor has corrected output per BENTLY Blue book. Spark plugs (all 4) show running rich (black deposits of oil) so engine is not running best. Car only has 140k. Fuel economy suffers according to ipdUSA with faluity MAF as its connected to Engine Control Unit (ECU) and part of 2.4 LH fuel injection. I use NGK plugs.
I would appreciate. some discussion as to "YES" works OK or "NO" use a BOSCH. Ebay is selling lots of used BOSCH but hesitating to buy used. I understand no more production of BOSCH, is this correct?
Thank you. Any opinions using VEMO instead of BOSCH?
Love VOLVOs, sometimes hard to diagnose and find OEM parts.
Has anybody installed the replacement Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from VEMO? I prefer BOSCH but can't seem to find BOSCH at ipdUSA or FCP Euro. VEMO pn V95-72-0011 and BOSCH OEM pn 0280212016. Also, at ipdUSA a procedure is shown for checking MAF sensors on VOLVOs.
My car is 1992 VOLVO DL-240 with a 10-year-old BOSCH.MAF sensor. BOSCH design has a "hanging" wire, but VEMO has a board with electronics on it.in the air way passage. Testing my existing BOSCH shows measurements outside the range per ipdUSA video. Also, gas mileage is down, was getting 26 mph, now 22mpg. Winter gas is a possibility. but not clear if this is true, I live in Vermont. Oxygen sensor has corrected output per BENTLY Blue book. Spark plugs (all 4) show running rich (black deposits of oil) so engine is not running best. Car only has 140k. Fuel economy suffers according to ipdUSA with faluity MAF as its connected to Engine Control Unit (ECU) and part of 2.4 LH fuel injection. I use NGK plugs.
I would appreciate. some discussion as to "YES" works OK or "NO" use a BOSCH. Ebay is selling lots of used BOSCH but hesitating to buy used. I understand no more production of BOSCH, is this correct?
Thank you. Any opinions using VEMO instead of BOSCH?
Love VOLVOs, sometimes hard to diagnose and find OEM parts.
I would stick with Bosch as I have heard of multiple issues with the aftermarket replacements.
What makes you think you need a new AMM? Is your car throwing codes? Gas mileage will be lower in the winter. Even lower if you have blocked off or removed the pre-heater hose to you air box. The numbers you list seem within range of what I would get when I still had my '90 240.
What makes you think you need a new AMM? Is your car throwing codes? Gas mileage will be lower in the winter. Even lower if you have blocked off or removed the pre-heater hose to you air box. The numbers you list seem within range of what I would get when I still had my '90 240.
I have had a few adventures with MAFs in my '90 240DL, and have discovered there are many different types:
- The "wire on a pickle fork" type that I've only seen in various product photos and on the one my car came with, which I returned for the core when it needed replacing.
- The "wind vane" that has a wire strung on a circular form, but a piece of thin metal stuck up in the airflow like a wind vane.
- The "circuit board" type like yours.
That may not cover all the types, just what I've personally run into trying to get a good rebuilt/aftermarket one. The 'circuit board' type worked fine for me, but note that with this type, you will ALWAYS get the 3-2-2 code, because there's no wire to burn gunk off of. If you're OK with that, then good enough, it'll probably work just fine. Otherwise, if you can afford it, go for a new Bosch, dealing with rebuilt and aftermarket units was annoying (O'Reilly took bad ones back as a "warranty return", NAPA did not). I too was unaware new ones were still available. NOS maybe?
- The "wire on a pickle fork" type that I've only seen in various product photos and on the one my car came with, which I returned for the core when it needed replacing.
- The "wind vane" that has a wire strung on a circular form, but a piece of thin metal stuck up in the airflow like a wind vane.
- The "circuit board" type like yours.
That may not cover all the types, just what I've personally run into trying to get a good rebuilt/aftermarket one. The 'circuit board' type worked fine for me, but note that with this type, you will ALWAYS get the 3-2-2 code, because there's no wire to burn gunk off of. If you're OK with that, then good enough, it'll probably work just fine. Otherwise, if you can afford it, go for a new Bosch, dealing with rebuilt and aftermarket units was annoying (O'Reilly took bad ones back as a "warranty return", NAPA did not). I too was unaware new ones were still available. NOS maybe?
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