Hi all,

For a 1987 240 what is a reasonable cost of a reliable MAF sensor?
My mechanic's written estimate includes an MAF that costs just under $400 (and a very small charge for labor to install-- looks like a 15-minute task). I assume that's an OEF part, but I don't know. He's a trustworthy independent Volvo specialist who won't install inferior aftermarket parts.

Based on a quick online search it looks like I could shave some $$ off that -- perhaps closer $300 or so, and the name Bosch shows up a lot.

 

the mechanic typically warranties the part he procures and installs, so he's going to use one he knows won't come back with problems.

 

Thank you, Pierce.
Point taken.

 

I should have said, ... one he HOPES doesn't come back with problems

I've noticed the Volvo branded new ones are from China and look quite different than the original Bosch ones. I think I'd try and find a trustyworthy USA rebuilder of bosch units, who stands behind their product and buy as close to direct as practical..

I note that IPDusa, a long time Volvo-only parts vendor, only has one MAF for LH2.4 cars, its a rebuild with a core charge, and its $400. IPD is on the expensive side, but they stand behind everything, and are known for giving good advise and being good folks.

FCPeuro.com has a variety from a $330 rebuild-by-Bosch one, to several indy rebuilders for $150-ish.

 

I typically snag them from the junkyard when I see one that looks good. It's a gamble but at $35 I feel it's worth the risk. The last one I had looked fairly new and still had the remnants of a Volvo dealer parts sticker on it. I have bought two this way and both turned out to be good. I currently keep them as spares.

 

What if I just disconnect the MAF sensor for the time being? (This is an '87.)
Will it run?

 

without the MAF, the car runs in 'open loop' limp-home mode, very poorly. it will run much richer than it should, and have lousy throttle performance.

 

Just been browsing online for the part. In addition to Bosch, the names A1 Cardone and AIP Electronics keep popping up, both at under $100 (no core). Okay, or stay away?

 

stay away. Just get a $50 used bosch one. I have a junkyard local to me with dozens of them. Spoiled.

 

Looks like I can get a used Bosch MAF online for under $100, with a short warranty period.


I'm looking at my old MAF sensor right now, and I see four filaments pointing in from the circumference of the housing's interior tube, each L-shaped, about 1/4 inch long. I also see a flat strip about 1/8" wide extending halfway into the inner tube, right to the center. Is this the way things are supposed to look in a properly functioning AMF sensor, or is something broken. I've never inspected one before, so I don't know. BTW, the car starts with the sensor disconnected but stalls and won't start when it's connected.

 

Just bumping up the thread to pose this question:

If the car won't start with MAF sensor connected but starts and runs (very roughly) with it disconnected, can you safely conclude that the MAF sensor unit is bad -- i.e. should be replaced? Or is it possible that a good cleaning with CRC might suffice to get significant more mileage out of the unit? Are there visual clues that tell you the unit is bad? For example, what would broken filaments look like?

 

unless the wire element in the center of the MAF is seriously crusty with debris, odds are cleaner will do nothing. failures are usually with the electronics on the side of the MAF, not the actual wire.

 

I've embedded two photos of the MAF interior tube. You can't quite see them, but three filaments are intact, connected to the L-shaped wires. (Is three how many there are supposed to be altogether?)


It all looks pretty clean, yes?

 

i can't really tell much from those pics, you need a tripod, a lot of light, very small aperture (high f/ratio) and manual focus to take pics like that

if it runs (poorly) with no MAF, but won't run at all with the MAF, it stands to reason the MAF is dead (no MAF == limp home mode). replace it with a decent quality new one. I think I'd trust whatever FCP Euro is selling. I'd probably go for the Bosch rebuild even though its more $$$ because this is something you replace once in 25 years.

 

Just installed replacement MAF (used Bosch), and it works fine.
Here's the odd thing: the screw holes for the mounting bracket are slightly narrower than on the MAF unit I just replaced -- same Bosch part number. So I'll need to look for a smaller gauge screw to attach the MAF to the bracket. No big deal. I'm just surprised by that.

 

or drill/ratfile them out larger ?