Monday my local indy mechanic replaced the front struts on my 1990 240, and also had to change my brake master cylinder after not being able to get pressure upon reconnection, but now my speedometer is bouncing around like crazy, I'm assuming/hoping that there's a sensor or something that he didn't reconnect properly that I can remedy without having to take the car back to the shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

The sending unit for the Speedometer is in the rear differential housing. There is nothing related to the speedometer in the front end of the car. When the rear brake calipers were bled - usual practice after a master cylinder replacement - he did come within 3 feet of the sending unit - but would have had no reason to touch the middle of the differential - the bleeder screws are on the calipers.

It's possible simply lifting the car in the air moved the suspension more than normal - and if the wiring to the sender is in poor condition - easily after 30 years - the wiring could have a problem due to lack of insulation.

Sometimes stuff happens (worse to old cars) just by putting a car on a lift.

 

Thank you very much for the info. I'm pretty sure you nailed it. I got under my car and just pushed on the speedometer unit on the rear differential housing and the speedometer now works again. It's gunky and the hard plastic on the cable flaked off upon touching. This is my daily driver and it is in the 20's today so I'm not going to tackle cleaning just yet, but did pick up some OD electronic cleaner when I do. Any tips on cleaning? Thanks again for your help.

 

One thing I did not mention - but now I have seen your other comment about the young person instead of the veteran that replaced your struts.

I've probably replaced hundreds of front struts in a 240 Volvo. Unlike many other volvos you do not have to remove the strut from the car to replace the cartridge. Loosen the lower control arm bolt, remove the tie rod bolt and the sway bar link - undo the bolt holding the brake lines to the subframe - that makes enough room to lower and swing the strut outside the fender. Use a bungy cord or a coat hanger/brazing rod to keep the strut from falling too far outside the fender (and damaging the brake hoses) then using a common spring compressor, remove the spring and replace the strut cartridge (having previously broken the cartridge nut loose) , then reassemble. Mark the current camber adjustment before dismantling - and you do not need to realign or bleed the brakes. After you do a few it becomes a gravy job - easily able to beat flat rate.

 

Thanks for the reply. The method you described is what I assumed he was going to do, but he said they have a spring compressor machine, and that using the spring compressors you are referring to, are "too dangerous"... Which is nonsense to me, but the damage was done at that point. He put in a new brake master cylinder. I just drove the car and if I push down very hard on the brake pedal the brake lights will stay on until I put my foot under the pedal and pull it up, which then turns them off. The most alarming part to me is this new resistance when driving, it seems like the brakes are ever so slightly engaged, but there's no new noise. I just drove to and from the post office which is roughly five miles round trip, upon arriving home I smelled by the front tires and can smell what I think is burnt brake pad on the driver's side. Have you ever seen issues like this after replacing a very old brake master cylinder? My 240 is a 1990 and the BMC was actually rusted, so I'm assuming it was the original. I have a new brake switch coming in today, but I don't know if that's the problem. This is my daily driver, it runs great, and rides great as well, but now this brake issue... Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Yes some springs are almost impossible to do safely with a hand held spring compressor. The 99-03 s40 springs is an example. 240s work well with that kind of compressor.

Isn't the brake light switch adjustable? Even by bending the bracket (slightly - it's been a while) ?

And jack up the front end to see if you can move the front wheels with your hand.

 

Upon turning the wheel I was feeling a little resistance, so I inspected the brake pads and this is what I found.... On my way to O'Reilys to pick up some new ones. Any ideas of what would cause this?

 

poor quality pads .

about the only thing O'Reilly's has for these cars is antifreeze and oil, and my local one only sometimes has G05, the right antifreeze. ok, they have wiper blades and lamp bulbs too. and cleaning/waxing stuffs.

 

Also age--very old pads seem to come apart like that.

 

So I took my Volvo back to the shop with the new brake switch in hand, $45 dollars and an hour later and everything is working as it should, almost. Monday I was crossing a street in our downtown, when an eighteen wheel truck slammed into my side (see pic). My 240 took the hard hit like a champ, and I was able to drive home. Will now have to replace both passenger doors, but am working with the trucking company to fix it sans insurance, as I understand insurance companies most often don't want to pay much $$ for fixing these cars... It's always something...

 

You are going to need more than "both passenger doors"

You might want to be looking for a replacement vehicle, the insurance company is going to total yours. I would not recommend fixing it without insurance - you are going to get screwed, unless you have a lawyer! And I would not recommend fixing that at all - the chance of those door ever sealing properly again is pretty small. You might get a better settlement from the insurance company if you have receipts for recent expensive work.

I'm sorry for your loss.
.

 

Thanks, but I'm not quite ready to throw in the towel just yet. And the doors nearly completely seal now, with crumpled doors. I've gotten one body estimate so far, if I provide the doors ($150 for both at local yard), they'll put on both doors and paint the entire car, also fixing a couple of other minor body damage areas. Said it will take "two weeks" and cost $2700. I'm going to get one or two more bids for body work this week and go from there.

 

If that pillar is not bent you should be fine, and it doesn't look like it's bent. If the doors seal now, then you are OK! I'd try and source the doors from another '86+ 240 in the same color, a very popular one for sure, then it's just swapping them, and it'd be a whole lot cheaper! Amazing that it looks like only the doors got damaged, not the rest...
https://www.picknpull.com/vehicle_de...AX885XG1702680

 

also check for dings dents and distortion of the door frame sills.... make sure the latch plates in both door frames aren't pushed back or twisted. ditto where the hinges mount.

 

So you should ask the trucking company for :

$2700 bodywork
$150 doors (really?)
$300 your time and trouble
$1050 - 21 days rental car. (they won't get your car finished in 2 weeks - count on it) Equals -

$4200 + any additional unseen damage and car rental time would be a fair settlement. - Make sure you don't sign anything that absolves them of what it will really cost to fix your car.

Do you really think the trucking company is going to give you $4200+ to fix a car that's worth $1000?
I'm really sorry that your car got totaled thru no fault of your own - but it is not realistic to think you will get $4200+. Anything less and you will be out of pocket trying to fix a totaled car. So - call your insurance company, make sure you have a police report where you are not at fault and call your/a lawyer - because you are about to get screwed if you try to settle this yourself.

 

triuck driver: awwww, that will buff out!

 

No insurance company or the party at fault can be forced to pay more than current fair value for the damage as long as the that figure doesn't exceed total value of the car. And no lawyer will magically help so don't waste your money, in fact few lawyers will take your case if they are honest. The most you are owed is about $1,000, and if you want to have the car fixed that's on you, i.e. you get the $1,000 and pay the difference out of pocket. That's the problem with older cars, you may love them but the insurance policies don't have to pay more than the replacement value unless you have some special rider on your policy. As a result you can buy great older cars like our Volvos, "totalled" for a relatively minor damage. A couple of years ago I bought for a $125 a 1 owner 1994 940 with 68K miles which was totalled for a dented hood, a broken headlight and a dented fender! Cost me about $250 to fix as I got the same color and year parts from the Pick N Pull, so just swapped bolt on parts. The car was one owner, literally pristine, and yes I still own it now with 79k miles--doesn't even have paint or body work, title is branded unfortunately but who cares?

 

yeah, on both this and the similar-aged Mercedes forum i'm on I cringe when someone dumps tons of money into 'upgrading' one of these old cars. if the Mercedes is at least a wagon, or the rare convertible they have some value, but still not enough for repairing even moderate body damage. and when you watch some guys build project on completely restoring the undercarraige and suspension of a 25 year old rust bucket 300E or 240 just to have it wiped out by a cell phone distracted moron, I cringe.

I sold the last of our volvos a few years ago, and now I'm about to purge our 3 Mercedes model W124 (E series from the early 90s). one will likely go to charity/scrap as its too ugly to sell in spite of being a reliable car, the wagon is worth a few $1000 as its in good running condition and still looks OK, and I dunno what to do about my 'rare' convertible, rats ate the wiring so its non-op, but an enthusiast could get it running again, and with a brake job and a few minor things like painting the hood and new tires, be a reliable and nice daily driver again, but as it sits, I'd probably have to spend $5000 to get $8000 for it. oh and it will need a new cloth top in a few years, more $1000s.

 

c'mon lev, they are getting some good prices these days on BAT ! the OP's car looks like it is worth way more than any 1K... granted maybe not to an insurance co.... but
definitely worth fixing!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1992-volvo-240-11/

 

I am not saying not to fix it!
I am saying that an insurance co. will not pay more than "market" value which is generally book value like the Kelly Blue Book, the Black Book, NADA, etc, in this case about $1,000.
Another way the ins. cos determine value is by what's available on the market in the area and how similar cars are priced, i.e. "replacement" value which is getting more common and this is where a claimant has more wiggle room.
I look on BAT too, and the stuff there is pretty unique, and yes crazy, but that has little to do with the market at large.