Aw thanks Cwazywazy. I'm sure that you did, but since there is so much dunnage in the boxes to fill empty space; be sure to go through everything very carefully.

Bummer about the car show on the 18th. Not to worry, there will be plenty more opportunities. A nice blow-off valve to really stress that *shhhhh* at boost will certainly draw interest from the ladies.

Still waiting on the piece de resistance to be delivered (TURBO) I take it?

 

Yup, should arrive in a few hours. I'll have to buy a few more things and make a trip to HFT before taking on the task of installing everything. I wanna wait until our spare car is registered again so I can use that, but who knows when that'll happen.. (Has an o2 sensor code, problem in the harness somewhere.)

 

I've got the O2 downpipe sensor from this one if you need it. Also, that harness that you got should fix it as one of the wires is for the O2 if I remember correctly.

By the way, intercooler arrive fine? I was a little concerned about it in transit.

 

Oh, the spare car is a Maxima. We only have two Volvos, mine and my dad's S60. Intercooler is perfectly fine. You did a great job packing.

 

Just wait until you'e able to walk your dad in his S60 with boost. c(-:

Cool, the fragility of it worried me. Thanks.

Now, on to what I had no control of... the condition of the parts themselves. How is everything looking?

 

No way I could beat the S60, it's a T6 with the I6 turbo. My goal is to make it faster than my mom's base model RAV4..

So far the parts look good and usable, but I haven't looked too closely at anything but the intercooler yet.

 

Got the third box. Just wanna confirm, it's just the turbo, downpipe, and coil in this one right?

 

That's it, the Turbo, Manifold, Downpipe & Coil. There is a bag of hardware in there possibly. If you got through everything meticulously and it's not there then it's in the other box.

 

By the way, see what I meant... Was mad concerned about the integrity of the packaging with the Turbo. Ended up putting it in the plastic sub-packaging and then bubble wrapping it. Alot of torn up boxes as dunnage huh... lmao

 

Changed my trans fluid and fixed the overdrive by plugging the solenoid back in. I can't say I really noticed any difference in shifting, but I think the OD engages a bit smoother than I remember. Old fluid was kinda dark gray. Filled with generic Carquest type F ATF. The handpumps were $15 so I used some tubing taped to a funnel.

Also there was already a 3/4 nut welded to the fill plug.. At least that means the fluid was changed, right?

 

on the manual ODs, the switch/button controls a relay, which enables the overdrive. its wired so it can only be enabled when you are in 4th, making it a 5th gear.

on the manuals, when the OD '5' light is lit, the OD solenoid is powered, and you're in OD. its an actual separate Laycock J-type OD unit, very much like what was in classic british sports cars, mounted behind the 4-speed manual gearbox.





if its not working, I do believe I'd get under the car with some clipleads on the solenoid to a volt meter or 12V beeper or test light, and see if power is getting to the solenoid when you switch the car on (don't start), stick it in 4th gear, then enable/disable the OD unit. does the '5' light come on ?

if the light comes on, and there's power to the OD solenoid, then I'd check the solenoid itself, and the mechanical OD unit. if there's no power and/or no light, I'd check the wiring and relay 'H' in those drawings. divide the problem space in half and conquer

 

No, it's working fine. Originally the wires to the gear **** switch were broken so I bypassed that with an AC switch in the dash. It recently stopped working and while I was under the car I saw that one of the connectors to the solenoid were unplugged. Works every time now, although for some reason the 5 light only comes on like half the time..

 

Driving home from work, push my foot down, it doesn't accelerate, BAM, dead. That moment of terror when your engine makes a bang and dies is not fun..

Pretty much immediately after I put the hood up a nice guy in an 850 turns up and points out that my duct taped MAF isn't attached anymore. It backfired and blew apart the duct tape. I got it home by taking the tool pouch and covering the intake hose with it then tying the string somewhere just in case it gets sucked in. Drove home at 20mph and taped the MAF back on, but with a lot more duct tape.

I need to get a working Bosch MAF of the right size sometime.. I have the weird one that came with my turbo parts but it's made by "Fuel injection corporation" and makes my engine run super rich.

 

The MAF/AMM should be a '007' for an 86 (LH2.2), thats Bosch PN 0 280 212 007, or equivalent. 1989+ 240/740/940 are LH2.4 and use the 016 MAF/AMM, which is completely different.

The O2 sensor should be optimizing the mixture, I'd be checking the O2 sensor (volt meter on the single signal wire, look for a signal that swings from 0 to about 1v and back every few seconds. if its doing that, with about equal time high and low, then the lambda is in balance. an old O2 sensor will be slow.

 

Tested o2 sensor. Got a constant .5v at the connection with the green wire on the harness side. What's that mean?

 

if its not cycling up/down once the engine is fully warmed up, then its not working. could be a dead (or wrong type) O2 sensor, could be a bad connection.

 

It had been an hour or so since driving.. But the harness side was still showing .5v with the o2 sensor disconnected? It looks like an OEM sensor.

 

I dunno what the bias voltage is (thats what you'd be measuring from the harness side with the O2 unplugged). my low-to-high-to-low voltage swinging is with the o2 sensor connected.

 

 

i don't get how a MAF could blow off, unless the camshaft is badly out of timing and the engine is backfiring out the intake.