So when the engine is cold it idles super rough and almost dies at times. If I unplug the maf the idle is pretty much perfect, but it dies out if I rev it. When I plug it back in the engine stumbles and dies. I took out the MAF, cleaned it with MAF cleaner, and used dielectric grease on the connector. I noticed writing on the underside of it so it's probably a used replacement or something. No change after cleaning it really good though. Does this mean a new MAF is needed?

 

Hey I'm from CT too. There is a scrapped Volvo 240 Sedan at Chuck and Eddys in Southington

 

yes the MAfs are very sensitive and if u do clean it i would use alcohol (rubbing alcohol)....when i did mine on the 960 i let it sit in a bucket of it for about 45 mins then very carefully used a cotton swap to clean all the gunk.....what u experianced is normal with the rev with the maf unplugged. as long as it idles smooth with it unpluged and rough when u plug it in you found the answer. is the maf the same as the 1996 960? if so i have one in my garage, doesnt work with the 1996 and newer due to changes in electronics. let me know i am located in RI.

 

Nah, looks like 960 MAFs are different. I'll try the alcohol.

 

Okay so I managed to replace the passenger side engine mount without taking out the oil filter or alt. Just jacked up the engine, unbolted the mount, then unbolted the bottom bracket. Cleaned it all up and put it in with the new mount and using a crowbar in the exhaust manifold/the jack I got it to line up and drop in. Both mounts were completely detached and I only had a new passenger side mount. The shifter is back where it should be but the engine lifts off the drivers side mount under high throttle and the shifter hits the tunnel.

 

The old mount while still on and this fitting I saw when under the car. What's it for?

 

Volvo wire insulation can suck my ***. That's all I have to say.

 

Okay, now that I've cooled off and had my Wendy's, this is what I've done to the car today. I started off by replacing the last engine mount, left side, which went somewhat smoothly. Then I fashioned a duct tape adapter for the 960 MAF to go in with the smaller intake piping. Got that all taped/bolted in and started her up. Idled great. Decided to unplug the MAF just to make sure it was actually working, and the engine stumbled then died. So I get back in to start it up and nothing. Get out and there's smoke from the solenoid wire.

After a buncha jiggling and shoving pieces of heatshrink into the bad part of the harness (I just wanted Wendy's) it started again. Some jiggling later and the dash Christmas tree went away as well. So I get in and I'm just super happy that everything is working and there's no more annoying *** clunking sounds. I'm flying, well over the limit, and everything is going well apart from the flickering oil light. Then I look down and see the temp gauge pegged. I know it's almost definitely the wiring, but it still makes me really paranoid so I pull over to make sure it's not overheating, turn down the AC, and keep going. I get my food, jiggle the wires to make my temp gauge start working again, and head home. Everything is mostly somewhat okay at this point, up until I reach a stop sign close to my house where it stalls. I did notice the gauges sagging down, as if the alt isn't charging and the battery is low, but the engine was running fine up until it died. The starter is spinning, but not engaging. Jiggling failed to save me so me and my dad push started it backwards and I got it home from there.

Later I'm just gonna rip into the harness and put heatshrink over all the wires. I'm ****ing done with this wiring bull****.

Here's a pic of my new 960 MAF:

 

Heatshrink wouldn't fit over the connectors so I just used wiring tape to insulate. Do starters go bad as quickly as mine did? It was working fine, then suddenly it just won't engage. I tried hitting it with a pipe, but that did nothing.

 

Doing a good job! Keep it up and soon u will have a car that will last a while.... How bad was ur rust under it? If it's just surface rusting a good prep job and under coating solves a lot of issues.

 

Baaaad. Bad. It's about 15 years too late for a "prep job."

Frame rust is mostly only around the left side of the trans crossmember, but the rockers and rear floor pans are just rusted to hell. Definitely not gonna be keeping this car for more than, maybe 5 years tops? I'm hoping that I can get the turbo engine in it and drive it until the body falls apart, then get another 240 with minimal rust and put the engine in that.

 

Here's a pic of my $20 Home Depot "repair" for the left rear floorboard and driver's seat mount:

 

oh ok yea if its that far gone then looking for a good body isnt a bad way out. i know i see a good amount of them still around

 

My idle was up to 1000-1100 which told me that my MAF fix wasn't holding too well. I looked at it and sure enough, the heat caused the duct tape to move a bit and it was leaking in at the back of the MAF. Probably partially because I tried to tape it on with the accordion intake hose still in the car, so I got some better duct tape, a couple hose clamps, then took the MAF and the hoses on either side of it out to do a better and more permanent job.

 

8/23 - Album on Imgur

 

Check this guy out:

"I put a turbo w/ exhaust manifold, downpipe&cat, oil cooler, tranny cooler, intercooler, valve cover, and front valence from an 85 760ti Sedan(b230ft) into/onto my 86 240 DL Wagon. Theres tons of pictures in the link in my sig, so just check that out. Hopefully this will help a little "

740 parts on 240? - Turbobricks Forums

A Plain 245 - Turbobricks Forums

 

Swapping a B230FT engine into a 240! [Archive] - Turbobricks Forums

 

Reading through those links, thanks.

So the last few times I've driven the car I've noticed that it would run slightly colder than normal, and then today the engine stayed ice cold. After 20 minutes the needle didn't even touch the bottom of the temp bar thing. Already bought a new thermostat, just needs installing.

 

Did my thermostat and no change. Where's the coolant sensor on these things?

 

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineSensors.html