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By the way, thanks again SO much for all your help so far. you have helped me out a lot, and I really appreciate it. I'm excited to try the windows tomorrow with the info you gave me earlier. I almost want to go do it now, but I'm already showered and in for the night lol.
Didn't get time to mess with the windows today, hopefully tomorrow.
I was thinking as I was looking at the wheels today...are they just painted/powder coated silver, or are the aluminum...a brushed metal of some sort? I like the stock wheels, going to see how clean I can get them, otherwise I want to paint them silver again. But if they're something that I can polish down to a nice shine and clean finish, I'll do that.
depends on which wheels you have. I believe the Corona umpteen-thin-spoke 240 wheels are machined, then clear coated. the ones with a more silvery finish have Wirth Silbur wheel paint and clear coat.
I've seen the Corona wheels glass bead polished, clear coated, and mounted with chrome lugs and no hubcaps, they looked pretty good. the original center caps on the Corona are rattly annoying things.
the wheel is aluminum alloy, a stainless steel wheel would be very heavy (and expensive). aluminum has to be anodized or painted or it quickly pits and goes dull.
the wheel is aluminum alloy, a stainless steel wheel would be very heavy (and expensive). aluminum has to be anodized or painted or it quickly pits and goes dull.
so if my stock wheels are aluminum, i could wet sand/buff them to a nice shine then say...clear coat them?
@pierce...you are awesome! i was able to use a battery and give power to the drivers door window switch harness and was able to roll all 4 up. at least they're up so i don't have to put a tarp over it anymore. now i need to search for the issue that is causing it to not work. i have the center console removed and i didn't see any relay(s) there, but it was getting dark so i will look again tomorrow in the daylight.
i did a quick pressure wash on the front section of the carpet, it got it a lot cleaner (the water was BLACK as i was pressure washing the carpet. i'm going to do it again and wetvac it dry real good, then let it air dry 100% and reinstall it. i hate nasty carpet more than anything.
before
after
oh yea, i bought 4 tires (may go get 1 more for the spare), $24.99 each! they're an off brand from Sears, "Guardsman Plus". normally i stick to good tires from reputable companies, but i had these exact tires on my 06 scion xB that i sold last year, and they lasted a LONG time and that was with me only rotating them once, so i figured what the heck, for $25 dollars each, it'll be fine for just using the car as a daily "economy/point A to B" car. I may go get them mounted tomorrow and then i will post pics of that. I went ahead and just stuck with the stock tire size. now that i'm thinking about it, i think i will go get 1 more tire, and then search for a matching OEM wheel to keep as the spare, rather than the black steelie that's in there now.
first thing I'd do is test if jumpering around that relay makes them work, if so, then I'd use a test light to verify that relay's coil is powered when the ignition is on.
I really appreciate all the help you've given me so far! Looks like I definitely chose the right forum when i was looking for one to start posting on!
I will check the relay today, i have a test light to check for power. i'm not as worried about getting them fixed ASAP as much as i was to just get them up so water won't get in, but hopefully it's an easy fix. at least i know all the window motors actually work, as well as my locks. In your other post you mentioned removing the relay and jumping pin 30 to 87 on the headlight power relay, which in the diagram you posted above, is relay 124 in the drivers footwell/under the dash area. is that the one i should jump, or relay 126 behind the radio, which in that diagram is listed as the power window relay. i don't want to jump the wrong one (i guess it wouldn't hurt though?)
By the way, does the trunk use the same key? i only got 1 key with the car when i bought it, and it works the ignition and the front doors, but it seems to not even push all the way in on the trunk lock. i thought it was the same key from what i can remember when a friend used to have 2 of these years ago, but not sure. I'm going to get some copies made today just to have a spare, i don't like having only 1 key to any of my vehicles.
a stock 240 came with 3 keys brand new. 2 fit everything, the 3rd one just fits the front doors and ignition, but not the trunk or glovebox, this was the 'valet key'. the difference is purely the blank used, NOT the cut of the key, so you can copy a valet key onto a regular key and it should work in all locks. the normal keys have a rounded handle while the valet key, the handle is ridged around the edges (I should see if I have examples and take a picture, but I've sold all my volvos).
do note, the real Volvo keys use stainless steel blanks, most all aftermarket blanks you'll get at a locksmiths are soft brass, these brass keys bend way too easily and can break off in the locks. most key duplicators are NOT setup to cut the steel keys, it requires a special machine and costs a few $ extra to duplicate.
the original keys are NEIMANN brand, made in Germany. same company makes keys for Mercedes
ok, here. 2 on left are 'valet' keys, probably for different 240/740/940, while the one on the right is a regular key for a 960 or 850 (hey, we've had SO many volvos over the years...), which uses a different sort of lock, but the handle shows what I meant by 'rounded'.
you USED to be able to get original new keys from a Volvo dealer showing proof of ownership and your VIN number, I don't know if they still do this. Mercedes does, and amazingly they are only like $13 per key, hard to beat.
you are incredibly well educated on everything volvo! again, glad i chose this forum!
i have a friend that is a locksmith, i already texted him about the trunk lock, but now that i know they are the same cut, i will tell him that. i will just show him your post, he has multiple machines in his mobile shop (a Ford Transit van, pretty neat setup actually), so I'll see if he can do a SS key. he tends to deal with quality stuff rather than cheap/off brand stuff, so just taking a wild guess, he may have the ability to cut SS. ill keep you updated.
going to remove the rear section of carpet in a bit and go pressure wash it. while i did get the front pretty clean, i am not sure if i want to keep it or not. well, i'm going to keep it, but i may glue some aftermarket black carpet on top of it. my upholstery guy has done this before as well as myself in my 04 mini cooper, just glue carpet from a roll (it's pretty stretchy) to the factory carpet since it's just from a roll and not made to fit the volvo specifically. but i will decide that after i get the stock carpet as clean as possible and reinstalled.
there are 2 little rust holes in the drivers floor area, not sure how i want to tackle that yet. the rest of the car is rust free.
i'm going to get the tires put on tomorrow maybe as well since they're taking up space right now.
one last question for you (until i continue to come across more as i go through the car, that is hehe)...idle..in park/neutral, is ~1500rpm normal? i haven't let it run long enough to fully warm up, so i'm not sure if it goes down or not (i haven't driven it, it's just in my backyard now while i'm working on it). but when i put it into gear (drive or reverse), it goes down to about 1000rpm. sometimes it stalls as soon as it goes into gear and drops rpm. if i'm in reverse, then put it into drive, it usually is fine. sometimes though it will stall only if i go from R into N (if the car is still rolling back) and then when it stops, i go to D, it sometimes will stall (since it raised back up to ~1500 in neutral, rather than going from R to D quickly, not giving it time to go back up to 1500)
again, this only happens sometimes, but it is kind of frequent. it starts right back up afterwards though, so i don't really mind, but if it's something that's a somewhat easy fix/adjustment, i will try to fix it.
it should idle at about 700 rpm once its warmed up a minute or so. cold start idle is up around 1500 rpm. when the idle control valve is working properly, shifting between park/neutral and a gear, the rpm should stay steady, maybe blipping for just a instant
its quite possible someone bodged the throttle to keep it from stalling... the idle air control valve is under the intake manifold and acts as a bypass of the throttle. if you plan on removing it to clean the valve, get new rubber hoses as the original are likely shot. I believe these hoses are PN 1326110 and 1336080 ... you likely also should clean the throttle body (and replace the gasket 1271488), make sure the throttle body moves smoothly, make sure it fully closes, and the microswitch on it engages when its at the idle position.
when the engine is fully warmed up, in neutral, all electric loads shut off, if you pinch off the idle air hose, the engine should idle at about 600 rpm... on LH2.2 cars, there's a screw on the throttle body to adjust for this 600 rpm. The ECU sends pulses to the IAC valve to let more air in to raise this to about 700 rpm and keep it there even when the engine is under loads like A/C or in drive/reverse.
I let it warm up and it idled around 1k or a tad lower if i remember, ill double check again tomorrow. but after it was warmed up, switching between gears it didn't stall or anything, it just shifted smoothly and the rpm stayed steady. so it seems it only stalls when its cold (around 1500) and i put it in gear and it drops to ~1000. i plan to put an alarm and remote start on it (i love having remote start in florida, gets my truck nice and cold as well as warms up the diesel engine), so after i put that in, i will likely never get in the car and drive while it's still "cold", i can't tell you the last time i used my key to start my f350...i use the remote start every time. i will still try and troubleshoot using the info you posted above though, just to see if it changes anything. i want to little by little get everything fixed up nice on this car, and just keep it for a long time.
the only thing that really bothers me is not knowing how many miles it has. the rubber on the pedals aren't worn off at all, and most other signs of high mileage aren't there, but odometer doesn't work, so who knows how long ago it stopped working at 68k...it could have stopped in 1995! lol i may run a carfax on it just to see reported mileage and see what it shows for each year, and/or what point the started marking it as exempt. i do plan to fix/buy a working gauge cluster, i want to figure out as much info as i can on the last reported mileage and set the odometer to that i guess and let it count up from there i guess is really all i can do (odometer, speedo, and gas are broken, rpm works, i'm not sure if anything else is broken (oil temp is in the middle on the last pic i took of the cluster with the car running, ill have to look tomorrow if it's at the bottom before i start the car, i don't recall right now.
i haven't done it yet, but i was going to try and find the guy on facebook who's name is on the title (the guy i bought it from never xfer'd it), so it's possible that the guy's name currently on the title could be either the original or 2nd+ owner and may know some info on it. hopefully i can find him online and contact him.
speaking of the gauge cluster, in the lower right hand corner, what does a red up arrow indicate? it came on the other day and since then, it's been on each time i turn the car on.
oh wow, this really makes me want to dye my carpet now. i was never one to want to dye carpet, always thought it would look like crap, fade quick, not cover every fiber completely, etc.
but this "RIT" dye you can get right at walmart seems like it's a great way to dye carpet!! check out this thread i just found, the pics of this guy's carpet is insane! it looks like factory black carpet, you can't see the old tan at all, and at the end of the thread he posted 2 years later that it still looks like day 1. i think i'm going to do this, and of course i will take pics along the way to post here.
they make it in liquid and powder, both you mix with water, so i don't see why anyone would buy powder if the liquid is available, seems like liquid would be easier IMO. from what i read they make it in multiple colors.
11-02-2017, 09:44 PM
