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You're right, it should be yellow, and according to this, the same arrow indicates OD for auto, shift for manual. But both say it should be yellow. Strange. I wonder if it's a colored bulb, or a white/clear bulb behind a tinted transparent piece on the cluster. If it's a colored bulb, I suppose someone swapped a red one in at some point. Add that to the list of mysteries lol.
the auto is a 3 speed automatic with a 'overdrive' 4th. normally this shifts completely automatically when you're in drive, but there's a button on the side of the shifter that toggles that up arrow light, when its lit, OD is disabled so the car will stay in 3rd. the button controls a relay, which lights the light, AND powers a solenoid on the side of the transmission. actually, the solenoid is powered when the light is off, and the solenoid is unpowered when the light is on. the solenoid has to be powered to enable the 4th/OD...
the auto is a 3 speed automatic with a 'overdrive' 4th. normally this shifts completely automatically when you're in drive, but there's a button on the side of the shifter that toggles that up arrow light, when its lit, OD is disabled so the car will stay in 3rd. the button controls a relay, which lights the light, AND powers a solenoid on the side of the transmission. actually, the solenoid is powered when the light is off, and the solenoid is unpowered when the light is on. the solenoid has to be powered to enable the 4th/OD...
most cars I've ever disabled OD in reset next time I turned on the car. Do these keep the setting until next time you press the button?
I'll try and dig up the schematic for the automatic OD relay + solenoid, that should aid in electrical troubleshooting. IIRC, the relay is just left of the glovebox, tucked in under the center console air vents. one common failure scenario is, the wires to the shifter button short out somewhere. another is, the relay fails.
I will check the wires first, i bet you anything that is what happened, i probably hit something when i pulled the front section of carpet out (along with the front seats). the arrow wasn't on before i'm almost 99.9% sure.
not that i live in a bad neighborhood, but i like to have alarms on my cars, or at a minimum, a flashing blue LED that looks identical to any other Viper alarm etc. i had it on my Scion xB for years and friends always thought it was an alarm. i need to pull up the stereo wiring diagram (i have a tab opened on my phone's browser) because the LED's i have wire into a constant and a switched(ignition) 12v source, and i usually just use the radio wires to tap into. actually no, i don't need the wiring diagram. tomorrow ill just go pick up an aftermarket wiring harness to put in an aftermarket head unit, and i will temporarily hook the LED wires to the red and yellow 12v wires on the new harness. i will be putting an aftermarket stereo in anyhow, so i will need it sooner or later.
regarding the BD wiring in my car. is it just the main engine harness (sorry if i asked this on page 1, i feel like i did but i can't remember lol) or are wires like the stereo wires/air control wires and things like that also BD?
do you think i should buy an 89 240 that runs, cold a/c, and per the seller (no pics yet) was a great car until it recently got wrecked, for $500 obo? i could offer her less if it hasn't sold bc it's been on CL going on a month now. it's local, and 89 should have the harness i need right? does it have to have the same exact motor/trans for me to be able to use the 89 non-BD harness? (https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts...342547195.html)
87 and 88 240 should be identical in every respect. LATE production 87's have a good harness, the bad ones were from circa 82 to mid year 87. a bad harness, if you cut the outer insulation sheath on a bundle of wires, the colored insulation underneath will be browned and crumbling.
technically, its every wire in the car, but most of the problems are under the hood where they are subject to heat and harsh conditions.
i'm almost positive my 87 is an early one. by the way, i edited my post as you were reading/typing your reply. the parts volvo i linked above i meant to say was an 89, not 88.
some of the wires i can see are cracking/crumbling so yea i believe my car has it 100%. i think i'm going to call the lady tomorrow and offer her 200 bux. no one has bought it yet obviously, and she says "car MUST go" in the ad, so let's see if she takes $200 lol. hell, i got a salvage title 2000 Honda Accord from a buddy for $150 and it ran and drove with cold a/c, it was wrecked in the corner trunk area and back door.
ah, 89 has major changes in fuel injection and ignition control. its LH 2.4 fuel injection instead of LH 2.2, and it uses Bosch EZK ignition rather than Chrysler.
interior, body/exterior... transmission, engine mechanical parts, suspension, brakes, steering are all pretty much the same.
fundamental difference between LH 2.2 and 2.4 is 2.2 uses a hall sensor in the distributor for timing, while 2.4 uses a crank position sensor. 2.4 uses a different MAF. the 240's with 2.4 use a different ignition system too, with the ICU located behind the dashboard instead of on the right fender.
ah, gotcha. i'm still thinking of offering $200, but I haven't seen pics yet and it's probably 30min away, i don't want to drive until i see pics. I've asked her 3 times and she said she will but always forgets. I don't know how bad the wreck was, she just says it was in a wreck....ok...was it flipped 7 times and every single panel is destroyed, or did it rear end someone and just the front end is trashed...lol...ill keep you updated on the parts car, but until then, i will continue to work on mine. i'm going to go work on it now in a few, going to finish removing the rear seats so i can get the rest of the carpet out and prep it to be dyed black. I've googled some pics of 240's with tan interiors and black carpet, what is your opinion on that? i think it looks good since there's other black in the car to accent it, and won't show stains.
i just got a new free tool yesterday (Milwaukee has a promotion if you buy one of their 12v drill kits you get a free tool) and i picked the 12v 3/8", which i've been wanting for a while, so it will make taking things like seats and stuff quicker to unbolt.
@pierce, do you know if there are any diagrams of some sort that show the front end assembly? i know i'm missing some parts that go behind the grille/lights, like a header panel or something. i need to find out what all parts i need to order or search for locally to get the front end assembled back together so i can insure/register it and start driving it.
EDIT: actually you know what, i just remembered that there was a Bentley manual in the trunk when i bought the car. let me go get that, i bet there is a diagram in there.
not that anyone probably cares lol, but I am still alive I just haven't done anything on the Volvo lately. haven't even finished cleaning the carpet/interior, need to get that done and reinstalled then fix the front end/replace the tail lights so I can register/insure it. I've thought about finishing fixing it up and cleaning it up best I can and just selling it if I can make a few bucks, but I likely will keep it. This week I'm gonna try and get some things done on it and I will update here when/if I do!
so i haven't done much lately on it, but i did clean it up, got the sunroof to open finally, cleaned the mold that was all over the headliner off, and changed the spark plugs (this was a NIGHT AND DAY difference). i'm in the process of changing the fuel filter because sometimes if you give it too much gas too quickly it will like bog down and have no power, so i'm thinking it's the fuel pump. if not, i read it could be the fuel pressure regulator? hopefully when i get the filter in tomorrow it'll be fine.
here's some mostly current pics.
also, yes....those are bungee cords holding the headlights in LOL. i am working on getting the parts to rebuild the front end haha. it's not my daily so the headlight thing doesn't matter lol.
