I have 1990 240 Volvo DL. I was in a parking lot the other night and saw a white 240 that was about 2-3 years older than mine(the rear head rests were missing so that is how I can tell). I used to have an 87 240 DL and I always thought my 1990 240 DL sat lower in the rear than my previous 87 model. So I put new coil springs on and shocks in the back to raise it up properly which helped some. But the other night when I saw the other white Volvo 240 in the parking lot it's rear end was more like my prevouse 87 model which was at a decent hieght. To make sure I backed up my volvo and compared the rear end to the one in the parking lot(white volvo 240 dl) and the white volvo 240 dl rear end was about 5 inches higher than mine. Why is this when I even have new coils and shocks? Would it be a diff. in the body style since there a couple of year diff, even though they are both 240's?

 

In what shape are your rear trailing arm bushings? That's the usual cause for sagging rear ends on 240s.

You could raise your springs a little with some hockey pucks.

http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Heavy_Load_Blocks.php

 

I'm no expert- but...
What if the other car had Overload Springs installed? Maybe those would make it sit higher...

I have a feeling though that my own 240 is also suffering from tired shocks/springs in the rear...does anybody know of a reliable test to see if you need new shocks, new springs, or both?

Koos

 

When I installed the rear coils on my 240 DL, I lowered the car(took it off the jack stands) and then tightened the lower bolts that hold the end of the coil. That is what the Bently book I had stated. What if I tightened the bolts before I lowered the car? Would the car sit higher?

 

I don't know what that'd do besides make them harder to install, but it definitely wouldn't make the car sit higher.

I'm not sure why my car's sitting lower than it should either, I know it certainly does. I should replace the trailing arm bushings and the shocks anyway, and then maybe I'll install those heavy-load polyurethane blocks if it's not high enough after the suspension is in working order.

 

Did you ever replace the trailing arms? I think I need to do that on mine. If so, where did you get them/price? Thanks

 

I replaced the various rear end bushings on our old 240, made a HUGE difference, got rid of all kind of funky clunks on bumps on the road, etc.

springs don't really sag with age. dampers ("shock absorbers") wear out, but that doesn't make the vehicle sag, it just means it bounces when you hit bumps (ok, this last is not true if the shocks are nivomats, worn nivomats definitely add to the sag)

I got the bushing kit from IPD.

 

agreed.. just had the same issue. replaced the upper arm and bushings. The one that looks like a dog bone. Makes a huge difference.

 

Yes, they do, a lot.

Regards, Andrew.

 

Typhoon - yes I agree with you about the springs but my experience with my 86 240 DL was that the real difference came from replacing the trailing arm bushings. (I had someone do it)
and...
Pierce - I'm really interested in your post. In my 92 240 wagon I too, since driving on these bad MI roads, have developed some "funky clunks". You mention that you replaced the various rear end bushings. All of them? As I know it, there are 10. Two on each of the two trailing arms, two on each of the two reaction rods, and two on the track rod.
So, which ones exactly did you replace and what kind of job was it for each of the ones you did?
Thanks much in advance for your reply.

 

It was an expensive job. I bought the IPD poly bushing kit. and had my mechanic, a volvo specialist, replaced all the bushings he could. he said there were a few in there that would have cost way too much time to swap and were in good condition. At the same time, they replaced the original springs with the IPD overload springs, but we didn't replace the shocks. I believe they charged me 5 hours for this, and said it took 8.

the overload springs made the tail ride a little high when empty. but you can load up 4 big dudes plus mountain bikes (roof rack), plus a trunk full of gear and supplies, and it rides great. It also does great towing a light boat (a 16 foot hobiecat). it needs new shocks.

oh, the other major source of 'funky clunk' is the center drive shaft bearing
cage

 

k. the back corner of the skirt in front of the front wheels is about 7-3/4" (195mm) from the ground, as is the side skirt just behind the mudflap. I got a little different measurement on the left side, but my driveway isn't quite as flat and even on that side.