Hello all,

Seriously looking into getting a 240 for the long hall here. My first question is besides the ABS, DS airbag and more manageable AC system/access in the 1991-1993 wagons, are there any other advantages to purchasing a 91-93 over an earlier year? My range of searching is 1987-1993, but as a newbie I am wondering if I should stick to the later years. Any thoughts would be wonderful.

Second question is I am considering a 1987 240 wagon, but the owner says the AC works, but it just needs a recharge. He isn't 100% sure though. Is this something I should be wary about and that could get very expensive figuring out the AC? How much $ more am I looking at here?

Thanks guys!

 

From what I have heard on here before, I think the '87 and '88 is one of the worst for electrical wiring problems, and someone should chime in here to agree with that. Not really sure about the rest of the years, but all of them still have brake light issues, tailgate wiring garbage, and mediocre AC. No other advantage real to the later years except the '93 has standard side mirror heaters and tweeters added to the sound system.

 

87 and 88 have fine wiring. The issue was biodegradable insulation and was at it's worst from 82-86. The 93 alone has a larger evaporator in the cabin making it the most efficient a/c. Also the only year built from the factory w/ R134a refrigerant.
87 and 88 had LH2.2 fuel injection; a good system but not quite as bullet proof as LH2.4 introduced in 1989. My favorite years for a 240 as a dd would be 89 and 90. They have the newer fuel injection, typically do NOT have ABS or SRS which is a plus. Early ABS was ok, but 18 years later I do not wish to be faced with repairing ABS. Likewise, the prospect of having an 18 year old air bag cocked and locked 18" from my face is less than preferable. Also, beginning in 91, random 240's began showing up w/ LH3.1 fuel injection. Although the system is not problematic, finding good used parts is harder as there were less of these built.

 

Thanks for the information guys. It seems as I am searching about 1/4 of the volvos that are being sold, the sellers say that the AC just needs to be recharged. I am taking this to mean I need to put $500 or so more into the car because who knows if it is just a recharge or system problem. I am avoiding these cars, but not sure if it should really be a deal breaker.

I am seriously looking at the 1990 240 wagon after reading your message - however, there do seem to be mixed reviews online - some people saying go with the LH2.2 over the LH2.4 because it's more dependable and those saying the opposite. Any other opinions on this would be great.

Thanks again guys.

 

Lh2.2 is slightly dumber than 2.4 2.4 has the capability to learn around certain sensors running sub par while 2.2 just works with what it has. For a daily driver, both are excellent choices.

 

The LH2.4 also has the ability to check error codes on the car if you didn't already know that. Have any of those deal braker AC systems been converted to 134a? When you check those ones out, turn on the AC and see if the compressor attempts to turn on. You should see that clutch, I believe on the front, spin. If not, the compressor is most likely no good.

 

How do you determine if a vehicle is LH2.4 or LH3.1? I am looking at a very nice 1993 240 wagon. Pretty excited about it - the price is right at $2000, the exterior and interior is in excellent condition - dark gray w/ black vinyl.

 

Look at the Mass Airflow Sensor, the 2.4 has a six-pin connector and the 3.1 has only four pins. Here is a look, Tech Tip #10087 - How can I tell which version of Bosch LH Fuel Injection is on my Volvo 240?.

 

I would try to steer clear of '87 and earlier cars. Mainly because I had a '87 740 GLE that had the bad wires. All of the coating was flaking off of the wires causing the actual wires to be exposed.

Other than that, if the AC needs to be recharged something is wrong. More than likely something is leaking. Hopefully it will work or you will be on a search for parts to get things cool.

 

FWIW, the A/C in our 87 240GL sedan was sketchy at best when it was new, and went downhill from there. It had been non-operational for 10 years when the compressor decided to burn up the belt. We replaced the compressor with a dead unit that acts as an idler pulley for the power steering, and unplugged the compressor clutch. When I replaced the radiator about 5 years ago, I removed the condensor assembly and most of the plumbing as it was in my way, and left it off.

the A/C in a 740/940 is vastly superior.

 

Dear Bluenote 76

Questions raised I have a 1992 240 GL sedan type vehicle. The wiring however complex is in good condition, corrosion is minimal better than most vehicles of this age. However, my air conditioning is out of commission I did a leek check with a detector and found no leeks but I did a pressure check and found no pressure at all this summer. Therefore, that is a problem. As we use a lot of salt in our area there was problems related to its use. The usual usage problems showed up things that wear our and that was costly the one things that has caused a lot trouble until I got to understand it was relays and bad soldering. I bought expensive Michelin tires and they are worth it. In my opinion the 240 wagon model year of 1993 is a perfect vehicle what I was after I know of no outstanding inherent problems. As a matter of fact here where I live most Volvo's I see are station wagons they just keep going and going taking a pounding. But take the sound advice from the others here. As I live in Canada the US experience maybe different what I did find is most of the cars of the great Volvo line were made in Sweden some of the wagons still looking like new around here were made right here in Canada. What I have seen in getting cabin trim parts at the wreckers is the older 1980s cars and many turbos the 1990s are not seen that is what I remember. Because I was trying to find parts for 1992 I was challenged. Wishing you all the best in your quest.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. I have decided to purchase the 1993 Volvo 240 Wagon I mentioned earlier. I am buying it sight unseen (I live where there are not many volvos) so I used carfax, my conversation with the owner, as well as visual clues and intuition to make the final decision. The price was right at $2000 with around 120,000 miles on the engine. I'm sure I'll need to put a little $ back in.

There is a chance I may have to put a little $ into the shocks, but it wasn't a deal breaker for me. He said the ride was a little spongey. How much am I looking at for that? He also mentioned the rear brake light on the back windshield is intermittent and triggers a "check light" (or something) to appear on the dash - thought his son slammed the tailgate and maybe shook the wire loose.

Also, on the steering wheel under Volvo is reads SRS or 5R5 - what does that stand for?

Well, I wont be picking up the car for a couple weeks, but I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions when I do. I'll try and post some photos if you're interested. Thanks again.

 

SRS == Supplemental Restraint System. Airbags.

my choice for shocks are Bilstein TC (Touring), these are much cheaper than the super-stiff HD (Heavy Duty). I would only use the HD on a car setup with sport springs and dialed in for race track style driving, the TC are much more suitable for a daily driver.

The rear shocks are pretty easy to self-service, but the fronts are in mcpherson strut cartridges, which are a little more involved. If you take it to a shop to do the fronts, you're probably looking at a couple-3 hours labor. you usually want to replace the strut mounting plate thing on the front, too, use only volvo OEM part for this, the after market parts are funky and don't fit right.

Odds are, mushy rear suspension would be also improved by replacing a few of the key bushings. aftermarket would love to sell you poly bushings, but frankly, you're better off with volvo OEM rubber on a daily driver, the poly bushings are harder than the rubber, so the ride becomes harsher. also a lot of the poly is junk quality and won't last a year before it starts to squeak and stuff.

 

I would recommend the Bilstein Touring shocks myself too, run you about $40-$50 each. They are not to stiff, but give you a solid ride for every day driving.
The ride looks clean man, nice nearly intact leather on the driver's side. I see a door pocket, good sign of owner appreciation in the car. I wouldn't mind some more photos, I like to see what people pick up at what price.
I notice the passenger window wiper looks a little whacked up, make sure those work... too late I guess.

 

You may have gotten lucky but I would ALWAYS recommend having a real live CAR INSPECTOR check out the ride before you purchase it. Some have a mechanic check them out first but an inspector is better. Mechanics favor cars that are easier for them to work on or that they have not had a bad experience with. Example: If a mechanic worked on a Volvo 240 wagon, and the owner was a jackass, the mechanic may not ever want to see a wagon without really realizing why. (I actually was like this towards atractive blondes for a while. It wasn't anything harsh, I just ignored them - something they are not use to.) So inspectors are safer.

I have purchased several Volvo's sight unseen and have wasted a lot of time in the process. One thing I have really learned to do is READ PHOTOS. From the few photos that you posted I see a few good signs:

1. The car looks clean and in service. Not parked somewhere off the road. Currently being driven daily.
2. There is a car in the garage, nice S70 so you're dealing with a Volvo family.
3. The area looks as if the people can afford to keep the car up.
4. Looks like it is being driven primarily by an adult. My guess is the kid wont touch it.

As for the work, the above advise is right on. The only thing I'm not sure about is the rear springs. Over the years, RWD Volvo had springs that would sag after a while. I installed some heavy duty springs under my 740 and was very pleased. Ride was just a little stiffer but I could load the world in the back of that car and it would hold up well. I got them from iPd ( www.ipdusa.com ).

I would recommend you try to get parts from places that specialize in Volvo's like FCP ( www.fcpgroton.com ) or iPd or the dealer. Getting parts from other places will frustrate you in the end.

As for the wiper, Older Volvos have a problem with wiper arm nuts coming loose. They should be checked regularlly and snugged down. It looks like this owner maybe isn't mechanically inclined and has let them get loose and out of their proper position. Take a 12mm with you (or use the one in the tire change tool kit) and tighten those up when you pick up the car. Nothing like driving down the road and running into a good rain storm, turnig on the wipers and one arm just sits there or spins off the windshield. LOL Yes that has happened to me more than once with different Volvos. Maybe they need a lock washer or something.

 

iwhat he says. if a volvo dealer isn't convenient for OEM parts, and you need something that fcp or ipd doesn't have, try TascaParts.com, which is a ford/volvo dealer in R.I. who sells everything in the dealer parts catalog for like 20% off, and has fast service too. the catch-22 is, you kinda need to know exactly what it is you need. a copy of the Volvo "VADIS" DVD can really help, these can be found online in less than legit kinda places <cough>torrent</cough>. the one I have covers everything from a 1970s 240's to 2005.

 

Thanks for all of the good info regarding shocks. I'm about 50/50 on whether I should attempt the rear shocks myself. I've really only done basic work like oil changes, brakes, etc but am looking to get more involved with this vehicle. Thanks for the links to the parts websites - I guess the next step is purchasing a Bentley service manual.

As far as other photos - they are really just of the interior. The back seats are super clean with no tears and the car seems to be in excellent shape overall. RSPI, if you're still interested I can send those.

I loved the visual clues you picked up on. I got them all except for the S70 in the garage. That is a great sign. The owner has done regular maintenance, he also said that this was his 3rd 240 that he has owned, and you're right - the son is not interested at all.

As a beginner to car repair, what would you say are the top repairs I should not be paying a volvo mechanic to do?