Hey all. 1991 Volvo 240 Base Automatic w/ Original/B23F 4cyl Engine. It died on me 3 weeks ago. Battery was discharged but good and belts had been squeaking for a day or two. Got worse and just before dying due to the battery (lights went dim etc.) squealing. Checked belts & alternator seemed too lose. Tightened (over tightened??) and when tried to start, was turning over and about to catch but emitted a loud screeching, then a single backfire where I then cut it off & stopped trying immediately.

Took alternator belt off, all other pulleys ran fine, no noise when turned over for a few turns.Tested Alternator, tested good. Replaced new bushings, new belts and put good alternator back on. In doing so, inadvertently pull the what looks to be the oil pressure sensor wire from it by mistake. (Know I need to fix but figure one thing at a time & it shouldn't affect the alternator/screeching & now no start- is this correct??) Try to start & now turns over great-no screech, no backfire but it just keeps turning over without any sign of catching. At this point know it's not alternator/starter/battery. Before, fuel pump (in tank) was kaput but ran (hummingly) by Main pump (& was on my list to replace asap.) Replacing the in-tank later in week to eliminate it as the culprit but I don't think it is (as ran fine before whole situation). So....

If it is not the pump (both working eliminating fuel supply issue along with starter & charging issues) could the oil pressure wire being disconnected be a possible culprit? If not, where should I go from here? (Plugs are less than a month old, ran fine when changed) and Dist/Cap/Wires are relatively new & look to be in good shape. Possibly timing belt (the single backfire?) off or jumped tooth? If so, what would be a reasonable cost at a local shop to do this? Is it a possible DIY for a shade tree mech.? Thanks for the answers, I am just frustrated & stumped on this one. All advice welcome.

Pete

 

Take off the oil filler cap on the top of the engine and look in there while someone cranks the engine over. You should see the cam shaft turning. If you don't, then your timing belt broke and you need to replace it.

If your camshaft turns, next check if you have fuel. Can you hear your fuel pump run for a second or two when the key is initially turned to the II position? If not, check the fuel pump relay and then the pump itself. Here is a link that describes how to check your pumps: In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender

If your fuel pumps are working, it could be the crank position sensor. This sensor is on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. This provides the timing for the ECU to fire the spark plugs. There is a fat black wire running up from the sensor to the firewall. If this is cracked or the rubber is flaking off, then it may have failed and need replacement.

 

Act1292,

Thanks for your reply, I will do as you instructed today & let you know what I find out. Thanks for the knowledge & wish me luck....

 

Hi all! First post on the forum. I'm an air-cooled vw guy but bought my girl an 88 volvo 244 dl a few months ago. Ran good and always started then had trouble getting her to fire up a few times . Would just turn over and not start. A few times I was able to get it started by flooring the peddle. test on in-tank pump revealed it's not working. Main pump runs. I have good spark at plugs and coil. Changed FPR, plugs, cap rotor, and new fuel filter. I just can't get it to run now. FRom what i've read it should run with the in-tank pump not working. After trying to start alot I found lots of gas in the oil just drained it and wonder where to look next. Fuses good. Could the injectors be plugged? what would cause all that gas to get in the oil? I think maybe I just turned it over too much. But with spark I thought i should fire. Just filled the tank and hoping that will help if it is a problem with the tank hoses and pump. Any thoughts? I hope to have this car a long time and be a part of this forum for years to come! Any help would be great!

Thanks,

Dan

 

a dead in-tank pump really strains your main pump.

gas in the oil isn't a good thing, for sure. that makes it sound like an ignition problem, as if it was a fuel problem, there'd not be excess fuel in the oil.

I think I'd stick a timing light on it and verify its at like 12 degrees BTDC where its supposed to be. pop off the timing belt cover and verify that the timing belt hasn't slipped a tooth

 

Hey thanks a lot for the advice! I will try it tomorrow. Yeah its weird, the problem with no start was here and there. I went to clean the flame trap and there wasn't one there. Put it back together and it hasn't started since. Does the flame trap need to be there? Also I turned it over with those hoses disconnected. Could that have messed something up? I'm just frustrated that by just messing with the flame trap hoses the car just won't start now. could an injector be leaking all of a sudden? I will clean those too. Peace

 

Tardfarmer,

I have a 1993 wagon I picked up at auction and had the same issue with not starting (actually it did start then died on the way home from the auction).

Mined ended up being a torn hose (the little one under the flame trap) and the in-tank pump. Replaced the in-tank pump, started right up.

 

Nuclear, That's interesting because my problem got worse after I messed with the flame trap hoses. I did not notice a small hose except for the one off the side of the tee that is pretty noticeable. Is there another hose off the bottom of the box that I'm not aware of? What could possible happen when I turned it over with those flame trap hoses disconnected? Something sucked it somewhere perhaps? I'm almost ready to take it to a shop. I'm hesitant because I've done quite a bit of wrenching and think I should be able to figure this out. ps where can i find a lock ring and seal for the in- tank pump? Got the pump coming but o'reily's didn't have the lock ring and seal. THnaks and I'll keep you posted on my progress! I aim to end every thread with a conclusion.


Thanks,

Dan

 

Try our sponsor FCP Groton. They carry the lock ring and seal.

1985-1993 Volvo 240 Fuel Sender Lock Ring
1985-1993 Volvo 240 Fuel Sender O-Ring

Generally failure of the in-tank pump does not give a no-start condition. Usually symptoms are insufficient fuel delivery under load. A failed in-tank pump does put more strain on the main pump and over time can cause it to fail. Do you hear the pumps run when you turn the key to the II position. Here is a site that has good information on debugging your in-tank pump:

In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender

I doubt that turning the car over with the hoses disconnected caused the no-start. I would also check the crank position sensor since it's wire runs in the vicinity of the flame trap. The CPS is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. It has a thick black/gray wire about the thickness of coax cable and runs to a connector on the firewall. Check this for insulation flaking off. If the insulation is coming off, it probably should be replaced. Move it around and try starting to see if that could be the issue.

 

THanks ACT. I will look for that CPS wire and test or whatnot. I did put a light on it and it was a hair off but on 12 degrees btdc now. Still didn't start. First thing in the morn it would fire once and then just keep turning over with no feeling of a start. Seems like it is instantly flooding out. New FPR in place could be defective? THanks and I'll keep you posted. IN tank pump on it's way! Sandy is slowing down my shipment for lock ring and seal though. Crazy stuff down there.


Dan

 

Well, Decided to take the car to a reputable shop down the road where they told me compression was next to nothing on all cylinders. Said he didn't know why. He said he found TDC and timed and could hold his finger over the spark plug hole when he turned it over. It was just running fine when I parked and drove it last week before the no start. This makes no sense to me. It has to be out of time and the valves are not closed when he did the compression test? What else could explain this. I'm pretty bummed about it and not sure what to do next. Asked me if I wanted him to tear into it more. He should be able to tell me why there is very low compression, 10 or so. I don't get it. Anyone ever here of this before? ANy ideas would really be appreciated!!!!! Thanks,

Dan

 

broken timing belt?

thats about all I can think of that would cause no compression in all 4 on a redblock. that or a badly blown head gasket, but thats usually just in 1-2 cylinders.