First oil change on the 88 240 and the oil filter was stuck real good. Went through the usual assortments of removal tools, but struck out. Surfed to several websites and found the Lisle Wide Rang Filter Wrench, part number 63250 at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Called the local store and they had it in stock. Using a 12 inch cheater bar connected to the very end of a 10 inch ratchet handle and a lot of grunt work the filter came loose and I was able to remove it.

This wrench really works well. Public service announcement of the day.

 

glad to see you didn't resort to puncturing the housing with a screw driver to get some traction :-)

 

Not a chance. That is a sure recipe for failure. The strap wrench and standard filter wrench were just slipping on the filter so I figured a tool that bit into the filter housing in multiple spots would to the trick, and as we now know, it did.

 

uh, it does work. but, i've never needed a wrench or any other tool to remove a filter that i installed. EVER. i hate the dumasses that install oil filters so frigging tight that any tool is needed to remove them.

 

The screw driver trick may work once in a while, but it is something that I would not recommend to anyone, especially when the proper tool is available for not much money. With that said, my guess is some kid did the oil change and over tightened the filter, and did not properly torque the drain plug as it came off without any effort.

 

the proper tool is your hands, along with installing it correctly in the first place so that no tool is required. anything tighter is installed by an incompetent dolt. it won’t leak or loosen when installed correctly, and will easily be removed by hand. hundreds of thousands of miles and too many oil changes to count personally attest to this. (all for the filter). the plug should require a wrench, using proper torque.

 

this style wrench has never failed me as long as I can get it on the filter.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Un...3JFW/204762449

always only to remove, never to install, of course.

my benzes use a different style wrench, a cap type with 14 flats and 75mm, and on the 3.2L DOHC engines, the filter is naked, and fits inside a permanent container with a screw-on cap. and my truck (ford 7.3L powerstroke) has a /huge/ oil filter that can be a SOB to remove, even with a strap wrench

 

Spin On Oil filters should be hand tightened but always take a wrench to remove unless you are "really strong"....

 

i always keep an extra set of leather gloves for that purpose... good for when you want to change the oil 'hot'....

 

no. spin until the gasket just touches the boss. then spin another quarter turn (1/2 turn at most). will never require a wrench to remove, won’t leak, and won’t loosen.

 

to note my comment on using a screw driver was not a recommendation whatsoever. In my tool box are both strap and end cap oil filter tools. I always clean off the exterior before trying to remove. When I install, I also lightly oil the gasket and filter threads (for spin ons like on the older cars) For insert filters I make sure the housing is clean from any dirt and alway use a new o-ring. I buy Mann filters in bulk as I read where their filters have a check valve to keep oil in place. +1 on the hand tighten then 1/4 to 1/2 turn. it should feel firm at that point. Also I always check for leaks after a short drive. If your car uses a copper or aluminum washer on the drain plug, that's another good item to buy in bulk and replace with your change. Most drain plugs only need about 25 ft-lbs of torque so a torque wrench is a holiday gift :-) or you can go with hand tighten + 1/4 turn or so.

 

Pierce, that tool is similar to the one I picked up at O'Reilly Auto. The filter on the volvo points slightly down so all of the oil never drains out of it, and remains half full. Why is a check valve necessary?

 

I believe the valve in a volvo filter is a bypass valve, that allows oil to bypass the filter if it gets too clogged up, so it doesn't starve the engine.

 

That makes more sense. Do you know if the Wix filter has this feature? That is what was on it and what I just installed.

 

I don't know, I've always used Mann or Mahle filters.

 

Was just reading about bypass valves in oil filters and they suggested that the bypass opens when the engine oil is cold due to the cold oil being thicker and harder to flow. Don't know if the term "cold" means 60 degrees or 20 degrees, but it makes sense. Also read that oil pressure drops when the bypass opens, again this makes sense. I read that Wix commercial filters have the bypass valve, but have not concluded the passenger vehicles have this feature. Will keep looking.

 

I seriously doubt that this valve will ever make any difference in the life of a Red Block engine especially. The engine in a RWD Volvo is the last thing that ever goes bad--may be if you never changed the oil, I have seen that and even then, it was the sludge that was a problem... Rod knocks are quite rare with these cars. Better address the transmission fluid that many owners forget completely. With all that, I do use Mann filters, well, just because they are OEM and I like to keep things that way...

 

Mann filters are not available locally, but have not checked the dealer yet. I am sure they have them, well almost sure. The tranny fluid is on the list for sure. The two wagons we had before this one went 100k between flushes and were just fine, however since this one is more or less new, I will follow the manufacturer recommendations on everything.

 

Free shipping... lifetime warranty/replacement if ya wish to deal with the post office.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...70-780-case-10

 

dytha99, I saw those out there, but really don't want to buy large quantities like that. The last Volvo 240 we had was unexpectedly totaled by another driver about 10 years ago. Fortunately I was not sitting on stash of oil filters. To buy online as a single unit makes no sense due to shipping. I will stay local.