Ok, the 1993 240 Wagon project continues and it is almost out of the garage, have to put the front left suspension back together and fix this oil light issue.

So far, I accidentally ripped out the wire connecting the alternator to the oil pressure light switch. The connector disintegrated too.

Got a new switch, spliced in a new wire and got a new connector (it's a snap connector I found out). I think I might have the wrong size connector and have to go down a size. I got the 14-16 gauge and I believe it is 18-20, which I am assuming will make a difference in the connection and it working properly?

The second is the oil pump. Since I was messing around with the oil pan (never again) and the oil pump, I am pretty sure the pump is back on properly. How can I tell if it is working or not?

 

So, you have possibly bad oil pressure light and a questionable oil pump? Well, to make sure, you'd have to measure the actual oil pressure with a pressure gauge--there is a port on the front of the motor, oh, I think on the right side of the water pump, it's usually an Allen head plug. You screw the oil pressure tester in there and it tells you what the actual pressure is. I am not sure what the pressure is supposed to be, I am sure someone will look it up...

Now, I don't think the alternator is connected to the oil switch, well, not directly anyway, so you better make sure that wiring you damaged is in good order, I kind of doubt it... I don't think the wire gauge is as important in this case as hooking it to the right wire. What did you do to the oil pump?

 

The wire is in the bundle from the alternator and goes to the oil light switch on the block (I think the same port you're talking about, just to the right of the oil filter and just down from the water pump). The snap connector I got is too big and had to crimp it down onto the switch so I am hoping that is it.

the oil pump; i redid the oil pan gasket (mistake) and obviously the pump had to come out (actually it didn't but I didn't know that at the time). I'm fairly positive it went back in correctly since there is only one way it can go.

I opened the oil cap and I have no idea what it should look like as far as the oil when it's running. When I had popped the cover off before to replace the cam shaft, there was oil there but again I don't know how much to expect.

I should be able to borrow an oil gauge from Advance Auto or someone I would think.

 

Isn't that a single wire switch? Pretty sure it is... Just get the wire on the switch SECURELY, if possible, to see if the light goes OFF, which will mean that you have good oil pressure, mess with the connector later, once you have the car running.

 

Yes it is a single wire switch, I'll fiddle with it a little tonight, if not I'll work on it next week (have to work the next 4 days, WTF, this is BS).

UPDATE

Lev, good advice. I spliced into the wire but gave myself about 3 ft of wire to work with. I took the old switch and hooked it up to the wire, out of the port but grounded and since I had it right in front of me I knew the connection to the switch was good.. Turn car on, light on, start car, light off.

Took connector and plugged it into the one in the car. Turned car on, light, start car, light. aaarrrggghhh. Turn car off, remove key. Curse wildly. Key back in, turn car on, light on, start car, light off.

Yeah!!!! I haven't had time to let the car run to see if it comes back on, so at least I know the connection is good.

 

Oh boy!!! Not looking the likes of this.

She is all back together, ready to go and get a wash. Had one last look at the oil light. It won't go off again. Tested the circuit, everything ok. Tested the unit, seemed ok but figured I would pop the old one in and see.

Drained the oil and took the filter off for better access.

The oil filter was bone dry, as in, just like it was when I first installed. The engine has been running now and then to test the timing belt so there should be oil through there.

so it looks like the light was right and no oil pressure, if nothing is moving through the filter I would think that a logical conclusion?

Help? I'm guessing new pump? or is there something I can look at without taking it out? I remember cleaning out the box that the flame trap goes to and some gears under there, they are part of the oil pump?

Help

 

indeed, the oil pump is right under the flame trap box. its driven by a bevel gear on the intermediate shaft, which in turn is driven by the timing belt.

 

is it possible that would cause the pump not to work? as in I put something back together incorrectly? Not much to go wrong under there is there?

 

I've never dug in that deep. diagram shows pump in two halves, and the drive shaft that goes into it looks split, so its possible the top part isn't driving the actual pump, I suppose



(thats from a 940, only difference is, the 240 doesn't have the oil cooler around the oil filter)

 

Do you know if that part #15 still part of the oil
pump or if that is something coming down from the oil trap? I remember there being a notch in the top of the oil pump, chances are that isn't lined up but how much damage could have been done. damaging the oil pump is one thing but damaging the stuff from the top is going to be harder to replace (i.e. pick and pull parts).

chances are I'm going to have to drop the oil pan to check the pump, I'm thinking about just replacing the pump since it's going to be open, yes it's an expense but if the pump isn't working?

 

Not good! You have no oil pressure, probably something is not right with our pump installation. How damaged the motor is is the question now... How long did you run it without oil? Still, you may be OK if it's still turning freely and no nasty sounds emanate... Open up that bottom end, see the pump--I doubt it's bad.

 

The most it was run was a minute or two, I've only tested it for start up.

I guess time to pop it open........again........ugh. Taking the crossmember all the way off this time since I'm an expert now lol

Only other thing I can think of is I forgot to put one of the O-rings in on that L shaped tube. I could swear I double checked it all.

She will be out of the garage!!!! I promise you!!!!

 

UPDATE:

So, pulled off the crossmember totally (take off control arms, disconnected steering from cross memeber and supported on jack stands, take brake lines off crossmember) and it dropped right out. 100% easier getting the oil pan out without the crossmember in the way, lol.

Pulled the oil pump out. As you see it below:

The pump seems fine. when I turn it by hand I can hear squishing inside, I assume that's good? The L shaped tube could be a cause. The o-ring that goes into the pump itself was brand new and I put in myself, although there was a couple millimeters showing when I took the oil pan off. The other O-ring that goes up into the block, I believe was NOT replaced and was the original one. When I pulled the tube off it was jammed up into the cavity, I don't remember putting one on and it could very well have jammed the other up there (it was torn a bit). But could that cause zero oil pressure?

Here is the top of the pump:


You can see the notch that mates with the int. shaft above is intact and the mate in the engine is in tact.

I turned the crankshaft by hand and the notch under the oil box turns as well (not sure how fast it is supposed to turn but it turns). Also made a hissing sound, not sure what that was.

So to this point:

1 - no oil pressure
2 - oil pump intact
3 - possible suspect O-ring but enough to cause no oil pressure?
4 - possible internal pump issue
5 - oil pump possibly not mated at the notches but I would think that would make a horrible sound.

so, I'm stumped. The O-ring and/or mating of the notch would be the only explanation I could think of at this point, unless the internals of the pump are bad (of which i opened up and looks ok, some scoring from the gears but assume that is normal, and of course it can ever be easy, can't find the spring from the relief valve, ugh)

help?

 

Old pump not self-priming?

Did you swap intermediate shafts or any other parts? I've heard of this happening on a VW engine - parts look similar but are slightly different lengths ---> oil pump not driven.

To be honest I think this is the least of your problems at this point.

 

Nope, only thing new is the cylinder head which is a B23 on the B230 block.

 

Not familiar with your motor. How is the oil pump driven? Where does the oil pump drive come from?

 

Oil pump is in the oil pan. Intermediate shaft drives the pump so the pump isn't powered. The notch going down into the pump turns so thats good, the pump itself turns and assuming the notches line up it should be ok.

 

Doh! What drives the intermediate shaft? Is there something different about the replacement cylinder head that would result in the intermediate shaft not being driven?

 

Intermediate shaft is driven by the timing belt. same as on ALL petrol 240/740/940 cars with any form of the B21/23/230 engines.

the I shaft also runs the distributor on 240s (on 740/940, the distributor was moved to the end of the camshaft), so if the car started, the I-shaft is turning.

 

Oh yes the I shaft turns, and the little notch that turns the oil pump turns with it, so I know it's not up top. The only other two things are the pump itself and the O-ring connections. Would a blown O-ring cause no oil to move?

As far as I know the heads are interchangeable, they are identical except for some minor changes like the cam plug in the rear.