Parking/E-Brakes
#1
Parking/E-Brakes
Just recently when i was working with the panel that contains climate control and all of that stuff, i had to remove it. To do this i needed to put the car in gear with shift lock override. No big deal, put the parking brake on and did so, but the parking brake doesn't work, so the car rolled freely. What do you think i could do to make the parking brake work again?
Thanks, Evan
Thanks, Evan
#2
Could be any number of things that are wrong. First thing I would check is the e-brake shoes. Over time, the brake material separates from the metal backing. To check the e-brake shoes, you need to remove the rear brake disks. This involves removing jacking up the car, removing the rear tires, removing the rear calipers, remove the rear disks.
Inside the rear disk you will see two brake shoes. Check to see if the brake material has delaminated from the metal.
From there, check all of the adjustments on the brake cables.
Good luck
Inside the rear disk you will see two brake shoes. Check to see if the brake material has delaminated from the metal.
From there, check all of the adjustments on the brake cables.
Good luck
#6
you leave the brake hose connected, unbolt the calibers, slide them off the brake rotor, and hang them near by using a wire coat hanger bent appropriately (you do NOT want the calibers weight to hang on the hose). be absolutely sure to NOT STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL when the caliber is off the disk.
then, you just have to remove the wheel locator pin (if its even there, or the small bolt some folks use to replace it), and whack the rotor with a rubber mallet a few times to knock it loose from the wheel studs and it should come right off. (the studs go into the hub BEHIND the rotor, the rotor just sits on them and the axle stub, but often rusts on, hence the hammer). stubborn cases might need a good squirt of kroil to free up, but then you have to be sure to degrease everything with brake-kleen before reassembling.
if the rotor is even 50% worn, I'd plan on installing a new one, ditto the rear brake shoes, since you're already there.
then, you just have to remove the wheel locator pin (if its even there, or the small bolt some folks use to replace it), and whack the rotor with a rubber mallet a few times to knock it loose from the wheel studs and it should come right off. (the studs go into the hub BEHIND the rotor, the rotor just sits on them and the axle stub, but often rusts on, hence the hammer). stubborn cases might need a good squirt of kroil to free up, but then you have to be sure to degrease everything with brake-kleen before reassembling.
if the rotor is even 50% worn, I'd plan on installing a new one, ditto the rear brake shoes, since you're already there.
#8
when you pull up on the parking brake handle, do you feel tension and does it stop before it gets to the top of the ratchet?
get under the back of the car, have someone engage and release the parking brake... the cables are visible in the back, one on each side, you should see them 'tense up' as the parking brake is set (much like a bicycle brake cable).
get under the back of the car, have someone engage and release the parking brake... the cables are visible in the back, one on each side, you should see them 'tense up' as the parking brake is set (much like a bicycle brake cable).
#9
#11
sure...they're just miniature drum brakes. Finding the brake shoes new is getting difficult. Perhaps Volvo still has them but I haven't run across them aftermarket. The adjuster at the back of the center e-brake console takes 5 minutes to check out. It won't fix anything...but if the cables have stretched a bit over time, often a turn or two is all that's needed.
#12
#14
fwiw, our 1987 240 with about 400K miles, still has the original P-brake shoes, and they still work fine. they did need a bit of adjusting awhile back.
the first year we had the car (bought new), the P-brake didn't hardly work, then I read in the owners manual where it said to go BACKWARDS and slow/stop the car with the p-brake 3-4 times in a row. so I did. and wow, all the sudden the p-brake worked great. I dunno if that bedded the shoes, or there's some sort of self-adjuster (my dad's old 1960s Valiant had 4 wheel drum brakes that were self adjusting, you had to go backwards and brake a couple times to adjust them).
the first year we had the car (bought new), the P-brake didn't hardly work, then I read in the owners manual where it said to go BACKWARDS and slow/stop the car with the p-brake 3-4 times in a row. so I did. and wow, all the sudden the p-brake worked great. I dunno if that bedded the shoes, or there's some sort of self-adjuster (my dad's old 1960s Valiant had 4 wheel drum brakes that were self adjusting, you had to go backwards and brake a couple times to adjust them).
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