I own a 1990 Volvo 740 GL wagon it is NOT the turbo. It cranks but will not start. I am not sure what to check next.

It cut off at a stop light one day and now it will not start. It seems to be a fuel related issue, if I squirt staring fluid into the intake it will start but cuts off immediately.

I checked both the number 1 and 11 fuses both are fine.

I have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and the fuel pump relay with new parts.

I checked the On Board Diagnostics and got the code 1-1-1.

I hear the fuel pump making the whir sound but when I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel rail there was no fuel coming out, so I disconnected the fuel lines at the tank and there is no fuel coming out there either. PLEASE HELP!!!

 

have you tested the 'radio suppression relay' ? this relay is under the hood, and provides power to the fuel injectors. test it with a volt meter, verifying that when the ignition is switched on, there is power to one of the two wires to each injector (unplug one injector, and use a voltmeter between one pin of the plug that goes to the injector, and chassis ground. if you don't read voltage on one pin, then try the other pin, only one has power)... if you see voltage there, then your 'radio suppression relay' is probably fine, if you dont, then check the relay socket to ensure there's 'control' power at the relays coil (pin 1 to 2) when the ignition is on, and power on the relays input (pin 4). pin 4 of this relay comes right off the battery. pin 1 is grounded, pin 2 comes from the power switched by the ECU half of the fuel pump relay. if you had no voltage at the fuel injector, and the voltages check out on the relay socket, then its probably a bad relay.

this 'radio suppression' relay is on the left fender wall near the suspension tower on turbo cars, its on the right side on Regina and LH2.4 non-turbo 740/940's.

 

wait, I missed that about no fuel.

first, there's a 4 pin (2x2) connector "Z" near the left rear wheel inside the trunk/boot area, pin 1 is pink, pin 4 is black. disconnect this and put a volt meter across those two signals on the half coming from the front of the car, have someone crank the car, and you should see voltage there on the wires... this is the power to the tank pump. if you do see power, and you're not getting any fuel out, then its time to pull the tank pump/fuel level sender assembly out, odds are either the wires are broken or there's a short hose inside that could have rotted away, or the tank pump si completely flugged up.

this page http://cleanflametrap.com/ReginaFuelPump/ explains how to get at the tank stuff on a 940 Regina car... Bosch is essentially the same, just uses a different part number tank pump.

oh, thats a sedan, on a wagon, fold the back seats down flat, and lift up the 'hinged' panels that cover the seat back, and remove the couple bolts that hold those panels to the deck and remove those panels. the access plate to the tank is there. practice swearing like a US Marine when you're removing/replacing the tank pump assembly, its a bit of a pain to get at this through the slightly too small access opening.

 

Thank you for the suggestions Pierce.
I had to remove the tank pump assembly to replace the fuel pump. The plug was different so I had to rewire it. I hear the pump turn on when I turn the key but alas no fuel comes out. I have been fighting this for over a month now so any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. I though the lines might be clogged so I blew them out with an air gun but that did not solve the problem either.
I am not a mechanic by any means and I actually thought I was accomplishing something, but nothing I have done has made a difference. I replaced the pump (I had someone help me rewire it), filter, and the relay on my own. I found the access plate by tearing apart the entire back end of my car to avoid having to drop the fuel tank.

Thank you again for all of your help!

 

there's a short piece of rubber hose on that tank assembly, was that in good condition? if it splits (sometimes invisible unless its under pressure), then the pump won't pump any gas out.

 

I pulled the tank assembly back out and checked the hose it seems to be in good condition. I really appreciate all of your help. Thank you so much! Do you have any other suggestions?

 

Where did you get the fuel pump? I've read elsewhere that the plugs are not only wrong, but wired in a way that is easy to get wrong...

I searched, and can't find that post (I read it earlier today) but you may look around the forums for other people who have recently changed their fuel pump.

I have never had to... so I can't help too much there.

 

I think Id disconnect the outlet hose from the in-tank pump and hook up a piece of clear stuff into a bucket or jug, unplug the tank pump and hotwire it to 12V to verify it pumps fuel when directly powered. then work backwards from those results.

 

Some of the aftermarket sending units come with the wires reversed causing the in-tank pump to run backwards. Using Pierce's instructions should verify whether the pump is wired correctly. If the pump runs but you get no flow, the wires are probably reversed.

 

Thank you everyone! The plug was reversed and it is now working properly!!! Thanks again for all of the help.

 

Thank you so much, that was the problem!