Found my first provkem with my new to me 745. Power window on pasenger side wont roll up but will roll down. Anu suggestions? If i take the door pabel off will i be avle to get it up manually as a temporary fix?

 

If I remember correctly you have a relay for up and a relay for down.

 

That would affect all the windows though. If you are going to take the door apart just put a new regulator in it that will end your prob. Not too pricey!

 

Yeah, thats a good point, but i live in washington state and we get lots of rain. I took the switch from one of the back that works and that wasnt the problem

 

the only relay in the window circuit is the master load shed relay that shuts off when you're starting the car.

its possible the passenger door switch is bad in one direction, but in that case, the window would go up if you used the driver door switch for the passenger window.

the window motor has two wires. normally both wires are grounded through the switch. the passenger door switch gets both those grounds from the drivers door 'master' switch. when you push the passenger door switch up or down, that side of the switch is connected to power, while the other side stays connected to ground. this way, one side of the motor, or the other side, is powered while the opposite side stays grounded, so the motor turns either 'forwards' or 'reverse'

failure modes include...

1) motor is weak and 'regulator' mechanism is dragging, so motor hasn't enough strength to push things up even if it tries, it takes less power to go down.

2) the blue or grey-red wire that goes from the driver door front-right switch to the passenger door switch is not making connection.

at the passenger door switch, with the ignition switch 'on', pins 3 and 5 should both be grounded (unless you push the drivers FR window button, then one or the other is 'hot'), and pin 4 should be always hot. the motor connects to pins 1 and 2 (via black and red wires respectively).

if you unplug the switch, and use jumper wires to connect power to pins 1 and 2, the motor should move one way, and reversing that power should move the motor the other way. if it doesn't go up when you do this, then you need a new regulator+motor assembly, they are affordable. there's two kinds, early 740's were bolted in, later ones use pop-rivets (and you need to get the right pop rivets, the cheap aluminum ones sold at the HW store won't cut it, these are metric and I believe stainless steel).

DeoxIT D5 spray is great stuff for flushing out crud from electric switches and making them happy again. if you can disassemble the switch and get to its contacts, DeoxIT D100 liquid is even better, directly applied to the switch contacts as well as plug pins. if I can get direct access to the innards, I'll use slivers of soft pink pencil eraser held in a pair of needlenose pliers to polish the contacts with D100.

 

I used the passenger side rear switch to try anf determine if it was the switch. Would the drivers side switxh make any difference? The pasengrr rear worked up and down

 

well, the drivers door switch for the passenger door is in the circuit too.

power goes into that drivers side FR switch, along with ground. the drivers side switch has two wires, blue and grey-red, that go to the passenger side switch. normally both those wires are grounded, but if the drivers side switch is pressed up or down, one or the other wire is connected to +12V ('hot') while the other one remains grounded.

the passenger side switch normally passes those two wires through to the motor, so if neither swithc is pressed, both sides of the motor are grounded. if the passenger side switch is pushed up or down, one or the other of the motor wires is connected to +12V, while the other remains ground. if the passenger switch isn't pressed, but the drivers door switch is, then one or the other of those wires is connected to 12V at the drivers door.

so, if one of those wires was disconnected, the motor would only work in the 'other' direction.

I still think the first test would be to pull out the passenger door switch, identify pins 1 and 2 (black and red wires respectively), and connect 12V and ground to those wires, then reverse the connections. one way should be 'down', and the other way should be 'up'. if that does NOT make the motor go up, your motor is bad. if it DOES, then its a wiring problem, or its the driver side switch.

 

It was the drivers sidee switch. I moves both rear to the front and the front drivers side and the passenger side switches work and neither back work



Thanks pierce!!

 

Sorry about spelling. Im doing this from my phone

 

so whichever swithc is bad, if you can get inside it, and clean the contacts with DeoxIT, odds are pretty good it will work again.

here's how to fix a 240 switch, a 740/940 is very similar. I'd use DeoxIT instead of what all they did.

or, new switches are like $20-30 ...