That car has been hacked! I see random wires, mismatched plug wires, fan shroud missing, wiring harness cut open....etc. Did YOU hack the poor thing? Stop whatever the heck you are doing with regards to "wiring up" your IAC.

Well, thx for at least posting a pic.

You definitely have a Regina car.

I doubt your running issues is your IAC. You need to get some experienced help to get that car back to normal.

Isn't there an obd box to check codes? Set it to mode three to test fire the IAC. Look it up.

 

You dont see random wires because im the owner and i know what they go for or at one point were utilized for. The fan shroud has been taken off all my cars since 2007. Dont need it in my way dont want cluster under my hoods.

You identified it as a regina but my question is what literally says its a regina because by default the stores give me the non regina parts and online sellers do too. What does the non regina b230 even look like? Four stores couldn't even give me the right valve cover gasket for this. Thing.

The connector is gonna continue to have the original one piggybacked to the new one because i have multiples of parts for this thing and i dont know if my back up idle valves i pick up later on will be the regina or non regina style. I got back up ignitors, back up lights, back up fuel pumps, multiples of everything in my trunk. Dont have time to be rewiring harnesses on the side of the road to get a part in. Thats more time to give law enforcement reason to swoop in...

The codes have said bad cold idle start and check idle valve for a while and i couldn't get the old one to open or close anyway. The new iac atleast works off the car.

 

4. Diagnostic Test Mode 3: Injection System Component Activation Test
Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 2 for fuel-injection-related tests.
Press the button three times for one second each time (waiting between >1 and <3 seconds before pressing again)
The diagnostic unit then sequentially tests the following components: engine coolant fan (if equipped), fuel injectors, idle air control solenoid valve, carbon filter solenoid valve (if equipped), cold start valve, radio suppression relay and fuel pump. No code is produced: you have to listen or feel each in turn to make sure it is operating.
Exit by switching off the ignition.

 

223 and 321 are the codes.

 

Facepalm.

 

What else did you expect..?

 

Yes, this is a Regina car!
Regina codes are NOT the same as Bosch codes.
Regina has some different parts: fuel and some ignition parts: ECU, Fuel pump, coil, FPR, ICV, O2 sensor. All the rest of the parts are the same as in Bosch cars... The FPR is different but a Bosch one works just fine.
Generic parts stores may not differentiate between the two systems, will sell you Bosch by default... Regina was only on Non turbos, and never in California so if you are in CA, chances are even better that no one will know about Regina parts...

 

You asked how to trigger the IAC and this is the third time I am telling you that it can be triggered by obd diagnostic mode 3.

Edit- you also say you know what you are doing with wiring stuff up, but you are asking what RELAY or wires trigger the IaC....red flag! Its called a wiring diagram and easy to find.

 

What this guy^^^ is saying (hopefully for the last time) is that you can produce a test "on" condition for the IAC in your car using the diagnostic box. Here is a link to where he got his information:

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html
(about 1/3 down the page).

Regina is just a fuel injection system that Volvo tried out for a few years. Like lev noted, it involves various parts on the car being different from say a Bosch F.I. system. All and all, though, it's the same as other 740's. When you get fuel/ignition parts for it, though, you need to specify that it is Regina. Valve (cam) cover gaskets will be the same for example, IAC's not so much.

The IAC gets it's signal from the throttle position sensor (switch). The IAC only runs when the throttle is closed. As soon as the throttle (switch) opens, then the power is cut to the IAC. When the throttle (switch) closes, the power to the IAC comes on.

 

If you have seen a "standard" 2 prong ignition coil vs a fugly,-***-Regina coil its night and day what is what.


Your heater hose isnt attached. Blown heater core I assume.

Your hood seal is just dangling there and will soak your dist in rain and leave you stranded on the side of the freeway. The cops may "swoop" on your broken down 740 at that point

That car needs a lot of work.

 

the fan shroud serves a very important function. without it, the fan isn't nearly as efficient at moving air through the radiator.

 

You misunderstood me. I meant the test wasnt triggering it not that i diddnt understand the test procedure. Nothing on this vehicle has been easy to find. I spent two days getting the wrong valve cover gaskets for this thing because O'Reilly, AutoZone, CatQuest, and Advanced Auto wouldnt stop sending me the wrong stuff. I couldnt even find this cars chilton manual at the stores, half the interchange guides i use for it sends me on wild goose chases, going to the junk yard for this sweedish monstrosity is a nightmare, i couldn't even find the right firing order for this thing off the bat because different sources were in conflict non stop. Thats why i asked you directly about where the iac wires end up at just to get a reading from the horses mouth to see why it wasnt responding to tests.

 

It was clogged when i got it then started randomly giving me badass heating in the cab then reclogged again then started giving me heat from the vents when i diddnt even have the heat on then got so clogged again it started backing up coolant and leaking. I tried cleaning it, reversing the hoses to force gunk out, then using a screw driving to knock gunk free and it wouldn't budge. My friend/mechanic said id have to take off so much to get to the core i just bypassed it cause there aint enough hours in a day for that. The cover underneath the hood is like that now because a fire randomly started near the freon tank and burned that off, a few wires i had to redo to the ignitor and caught the driveway and street on fire.. It diddnt matter anyways because of the stupid position the dizzy was put in and the weather stripping being lose it was getting the dizzy wet anyway.

 

there's FAR more useful info here than in any aftermarket books.
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/FAQIndexNew1.htm



the best source for older volvo stuff are the original Volvo "Greenbooks", but the catch-22 is, these are out of print and no longer available. also, a complete collection of all the greenbooks for a given year would have set you back a big chunk of moola. When they were still available, I bought a real Volvo 1992 740/940 Electrical Wiring greenbook, it was $59. ouch. Recently VCOA has made available DVDs of the greenbooks, one each for 2xx (1974-1993), 7xx (1984-1992), and 9xx (1991-1998). these are annoyingly well copyprotected, and are for personal use only. there are some missing greenbooks and little errata info.

here's a wiring diagram page from the electrical greenbook for 1989 740 Regina




as I have a 1987 240 and a 1992 740, I chose to get the 240 and 740 DVD (a 92 740 and 940 wagon are mechanically and electrically identical), and have found them very useful inspite of the limitations of their format.





chilton manuals are universally pure and unadulterated crap. haynes aren't much better.

the only half-way decent RWD volvo service manual published is the 240 one by Robert Bentley, and its not of much use on 740/940 as even though they use the same engine family, and transmissions, and rear ends, there's a LOT of differences.



we're talking about car models here that were made for 20 years... they had steady evolutionary engineering changes during that time, 740's used 3 different fuel injection versions, Bosch LH 2.2, Bosch LH 2.4, and Regina, and these had different ignition systems (Bosch EZK or Rex). Regina/Rex works just fine, its very reliable, its just not as well known, and folks that don't know anything about it tend to freak out about it.

 

Bust out the ohmeter and check for continuity between IAC plug and ECU.

If you car found a way to kill those wires, you will likely have many other problems too.

Looks like it is just like all the other cars..... Good ol' blue yellow gets powered up with ignition on, then ECU grounds it. Very simple.

I repeat myself again; I doubt your IAC is the issue with why your car runs like crap. Interested to see final result.

 

Couldnt find my multimeter so i went another route and hooked up a auxiliary light between the two wires to get some analysis. Its dimmer until i crank the thing up then we get full juice going through. I got the iac to react to the wires once but then it wouldnt open up anymore. Iac still works fine off of battery directly. Traced the red and black wire but couldnt trace the dark blue and yellow one. Even sadder is the car is idling without anything in the air line period smh. Im thinking the ecu is sending bad or erratic signals.

 

lets see, on a 1991 Regina car... my 1991 greenbook says the 'power' wire to the IAC is either green or blue-yellow, and the control signal from the ECU is red/black. this control signal is switched to ground to fire the IAC, so if you hook your test light up to the black/red and the other pin to ground, the light should be pulsing while its idling, and solid on if its not idling. the blue-yellow wire should be solid on (relative to ground) if the engine is on, period (its powered right off the main EFI relay)

 

Your tests mean nothing.

The wiring diagram above shows exactly where the TWO wires go. Not that hard to trace.

Go spend $5 at harbor freight for a multimeter.

 

IAC is controlled via a pulsewidth from the ECU. It isn't a simple, "add 12v HERE" kinda thing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation




Now that you are probably thoroughly confused....

It IS a simple two wire circuit!

Wire 1: see if you have 12v on it.

Wire 2: 0 ohms between IAC plug and ECU terminal. Make sense? You just need to confirm your wires aren't fried somewhere in that torn up wiring harness.


Just get a proper Regina IAC on there and then look elsewhere for your poor running issues.

 

i just saw this! hahaha. See my sig!!! It's meant to be ironic, but damn, it sure fits the situation perfectly here!

You sir, are beyond your skill level at fixing this car. Whatever the heck you did to start a fire....! It is an understatement to say that burned wires will cause running issues.

I honestly suggest that with your current skill level, you are best off buying a non-fried/hacked car at this point. Not trying to put you down or be rude. Being totally honest with ya.