RE: the trailing arm bushings
Cut them out, burn them out with a torch, basically anything that gets them removed is a win. Still...pressing them out on a press is much preferred. Here's a step by step...by Author Anonymous...He's replacing w/ poly bushings, hence the reference but they're all the same.
"Removing rear control arm bushings"
jack up the car, support it.
unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the big
bracket to the car.
remove the 17mm (or was it 19?) nut
that holds the control arm into the
bushing.
twist the bracket by hand till it comes
off the control arm (can be rediculously
stuck sometimes...if so use some
WD40)
then you should be able to press the old
bushings out on the workbench, press
the poly ones in and bolt em back under
the car.
2-19mm or 3/4" wrenches.
Just did this job on the 82 with some
TABs I scored at the JY arms and all.
First one went in easy because I bolted
the bottom bushing in first.
Second one was tight,and I tried to do
the top first.
No go.
Had to center it with a big punch stuffed
in the hole,and bolt in the bottom first.
Cut them out with an old blade in a jig
saw,and get pretty close.
Torch out,wire wheel,and emory to
smooth them as per instructions,
as you are creating a bearing surface for
the poly.
"Removing rear control arm bushings"
jack up the car, support it.
unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the big
bracket to the car.
remove the 17mm (or was it 19?) nut
that holds the control arm into the
bushing.
twist the bracket by hand till it comes
off the control arm (can be rediculously
stuck sometimes...if so use some
WD40)
then you should be able to press the old
bushings out on the workbench, press
the poly ones in and bolt em back under
the car.
2-19mm or 3/4" wrenches.
Just did this job on the 82 with some
TABs I scored at the JY arms and all.
First one went in easy because I bolted
the bottom bushing in first.
Second one was tight,and I tried to do
the top first.
No go.
Had to center it with a big punch stuffed
in the hole,and bolt in the bottom first.
Cut them out with an old blade in a jig
saw,and get pretty close.
Torch out,wire wheel,and emory to
smooth them as per instructions,
as you are creating a bearing surface for
the poly.
Cut them out, burn them out with a torch, basically anything that gets them removed is a win. Still...pressing them out on a press is much preferred. Here's a step by step...by Author Anonymous...He's replacing w/ poly bushings, hence the reference but they're all the same.
"Removing rear control arm bushings"
jack up the car, support it.
unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the big
bracket to the car.
remove the 17mm (or was it 19?) nut
that holds the control arm into the
bushing.
twist the bracket by hand till it comes
off the control arm (can be rediculously
stuck sometimes...if so use some
WD40)
then you should be able to press the old
bushings out on the workbench, press
the poly ones in and bolt em back under
the car.
2-19mm or 3/4" wrenches.
Just did this job on the 82 with some
TABs I scored at the JY arms and all.
First one went in easy because I bolted
the bottom bushing in first.
Second one was tight,and I tried to do
the top first.
No go.
Had to center it with a big punch stuffed
in the hole,and bolt in the bottom first.
Cut them out with an old blade in a jig
saw,and get pretty close.
Torch out,wire wheel,and emory to
smooth them as per instructions,
as you are creating a bearing surface for
the poly.
"Removing rear control arm bushings"
jack up the car, support it.
unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the big
bracket to the car.
remove the 17mm (or was it 19?) nut
that holds the control arm into the
bushing.
twist the bracket by hand till it comes
off the control arm (can be rediculously
stuck sometimes...if so use some
WD40)
then you should be able to press the old
bushings out on the workbench, press
the poly ones in and bolt em back under
the car.
2-19mm or 3/4" wrenches.
Just did this job on the 82 with some
TABs I scored at the JY arms and all.
First one went in easy because I bolted
the bottom bushing in first.
Second one was tight,and I tried to do
the top first.
No go.
Had to center it with a big punch stuffed
in the hole,and bolt in the bottom first.
Cut them out with an old blade in a jig
saw,and get pretty close.
Torch out,wire wheel,and emory to
smooth them as per instructions,
as you are creating a bearing surface for
the poly.
Especially since I also plan to do the IPD lowering springs in the near future.
I would like to keep this under one days work...
You say sway bar but I presume you mean the trailing arm. My personal experience is yes, removing the entire arm makes bushing replacement easier. The fronts are easy; it's the large rear ones that can be a PITA. Nothing other than the shocks need to be loosened to swap the rear springs. Well, you have to loosen the spring perch bolt...but that's it.
You say sway bar but I presume you mean the trailing arm. My personal experience is yes, removing the entire arm makes bushing replacement easier. The fronts are easy; it's the large rear ones that can be a PITA. Nothing other than the shocks need to be loosened to swap the rear springs. Well, you have to loosen the spring perch bolt...but that's it.
You say sway bar but I presume you mean the trailing arm. My personal experience is yes, removing the entire arm makes bushing replacement easier. The fronts are easy; it's the large rear ones that can be a PITA. Nothing other than the shocks need to be loosened to swap the rear springs. Well, you have to loosen the spring perch bolt...but that's it.

Volvo had a specific tool for nearly every bearing and bushing. The problem with using these presses is the potential for crushing the trailing arm. Lots of penetrant lowers the odds; I still prefer a press.
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Platinum52
Volvo V70
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Jul 17, 2009 07:33 PM




