I've replaced the CPS, RSR, battery, distributor, coil, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. Problem was believed to be fuel pressure, I've spent hours and ended up sending the car to a shop where they replaced the distributor, coil and fuel pump. They had it for weeks, I drove it home after the fuel pump replacement; went to start it again and fuel was spewing from the return line and the pressure regulator smelled like gas so I replaced it with a new one. Still no start, I'm running out of ideas at this point.

 

I have several Reginas. First thing is return to shop and question with authority why you have fuel leaking?????
check to make sure your rsr clicking upon turning key.

2. Check date on your fuel pump relay!!!!!!!! Check to make sure its clicking amd verify your getting voltage to your fuel pump/ grounds!!
3 check/ change your fuel pump relay.

Golden block 2 million miles plus.

*** also you shouldnt havev to pay for anything else because they mis diagnosed your car!!!!!!

 

I agree, they need to look at it at no cost. Ive usually been able to figure out these no start issues, and had to give up since I needed the car for work asap. They first told me I had no spark after the distributor so I bought one and they also tried to say I needed a coil, bought one of those as well. They ended up buying and replacing my fuel pump several times without permission, the first 2 times they replaced it with the in tank 5 lbs Bosch pump that goes in the turbo cars (I couldve told them that but they didnt listen to me when I told them it's a regina from the beginning). Forgot to mention when I picked the car up it smelled of gas and when I got it home is when I found the return line leaking fuel so I replaced the line and fuel pressure regulator with zero luck. My new battery died in the process of trying to start so I've had the battery on a charger for about 12 hours now..

 

I've tossed about $750 in this car during these past 3 weeks trying to locate the issue, I've had numerous issues with it since I've owned it August 2019. Replaced the head gasket, thermostat, water pump, and timing belt last September when the hg failed. Anyway, I can feel the fuel pump relay clicking when trying to start but I did notice the date on it says 2003. I opened the relay up and it appears to be okay with no noticeable wear or cracked joints. Could my coolant temperature sensor be a problem? I'm not sure if i should even try taking the car back to that shop since they kept it for over 2 weeks and only wanted to throw parts at it.

 

The fuel pump relay is the last thing I can think of to replace since it appears to be 18 years old, my rsr is less than a year old and clicks a couple times when trying to start. Will be going to the junkyard to grab that relay, anything else I should grab?

 

Definitely get that thing outta there!!!!!! No matter if clicking or by looks.
last component to try or look at is a completly shot or dead ecu.....

 

Replaced the fuel pump relay with no luck, used a known working relay from my friends car. Out of ideas, having the car towed back tomorrow.. Will have to try another ecu if they cant pinpoint the issue.

 

Please make sure you check your msin fuel pump fuse??? Im praying you did this already begore all the more complicated stuff..
Goldenblock

 

Yes, fuses have been checked frequently. No issues there either.

 

Okay, towed it back and now I'm hearing that the fuel pump will only prime, and upon cranking it does nothing. Somebody suggested that relay/fuse box itself can have issues and collect dust. Has anybody experienced this? Could my ignition switch be causing the intermittent problem? Appreciate the suggestions

 

I've read through your post and it seems like nowhere along the lines have you checked your crank position sensor - assuming you have one (you never note the year of your car but I believe all Regina systems use a CPS). The crank position sensor provides a signal to the ECU so as to provide timing for the fuel injection system and the ignition timing. If that signal is missing, the ECU will not run the fuel pump. In you initial post you noted that your mechanic said there was no spark and that you replaced the distributor cap and coil. A failed crank position sensor will result in a no-spark condition.

Visually inspect the crank position sensor and its cable. Check for cracked & flaking insulation. It is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission meet. The cable is black or gray and is a coax cable that runs to a connector on the firewall.

 

I had spark the whole time, they tried to say that there was no spark after the distributor.. I replaced the CPS last September (2019) and even bought another one 3 weeks ago and replaced it with the same symptoms.

 

I'm just going to wire the fuel pump to the battery with a 30a fuse, a relay and a switch. Cant figure it out.

 

Check the wiring to the radio suppression for breaks buildup or connection.
Goldenblock

 

Also checked there from the beginning, made sure they're clean and all 4 connectors are tight. RSR has a pulse to the injectors. Trying to find time and a ride to the junkyard for that ecu.

 

When I had a similar problem I hot wired the FP and it ran. After more investigation we found the CPU was not grounding out the FP causing the problem. I bought a rebuilt CPU and the car runs like a charm even with 391K miles on it. Ring out the CPU wiring to the FP. Go from there.

 

the RSR is turned on with the ignition and stays on until the ignition is turned off. it supplies power to the injectors, but it does NOT pulse them.

the ONLY reason for the RSR is that when they consolidated the fuses and relays on hte 740 behind the ashtray, the current pulses to the injectors caused radio interference, especially with AM, so they added another relay, slaved to the ECU side of the fuel pump relay, to move that injector power to the engine compartment. this is why it is called the 'radio (interference) suppression relay'

fun fact, some 94/95 940s did away with the classic big white fuel system dual relay, and used the RSR as the whole fuel system power, and used a separate simple relay for the fuel pumps, this was done as a cost saving measure.

 

Still fighting this issue. After 6 days the car wont start now, 7 days ago it took 20-30 seconds of cranking to get it going. I noticed my tachometer wasn't working, so I wiggled the CPS and tried again and noticed a little movement on the tach but still couldn't get it started before the battery died. Rewind, I took the car back to that shop and he ended up charging me 300 for an "OE" crank sensor and said that was the problem all along. Now I'm back to square one, where should I be looking? The tach will not move when trying to start...

 

Switched the ecu and ignition control module that bolts to the coil, no changes. Have changed the CPS 3 times

 

OE CPS is $50 and 5 minutes work... Stay away from this shop!