I need to replace the plastic surround for the auto-trans gearshift on a 1992 240. What's the trick to getting the shift **** with overdrive button removed and replaced without damage? Alternatively, is it possible to remove the shift lever from the base as a route towards replacing the shattered plastic surround?

And why did Volvo build the rest of the car to deflect artillery rounds, but used interior plastic that cracks from slamming the door on a cold day?

 

Bump. Still need an answer.

 

Removal of shift ***:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...up-pics-51244/

Volvo considers safety with upmost importance, everything else is secondary...but man is it annoying when alot of little plastic things are breaking...

 

I'm pretty sure this method would damage the overdrive button on the 240 auto-trans stick. It might work great to remove the **** on a manual transmission 850, but what I'm looking at on the 1992 240 is a very different beast.

Any other suggestions? Surely someone has done this before.

 

Sorry, I overlooked you saying it was an auto...
Here's a general removal, and while it's not your 240 specific, it may be helpful: How to Remove an Automatic Shifter **** | eHow.com

There's also alot of links on that page, I hope this helps. But there has got to be someone in the forum who has done this specific one, hope they comment on the thread.

 

Got it! In the event anyone else needs to do this, here's how:

1. Grab the overdrive button on the side of the shift **** with a pair of needle-nose pliers and gently work the switch out of the side of the ****.

2. There are 2 wires attached to the switch with spade connectors. If one has plastic insulator, cut it away, but leave the spade. Disconnect the wires from the switch and push the wires back into the ****. You'll need to feed these wires back through the **** in step 4, and they won't fit if the plastic cover is still on the spade connectors.

3. Grab the shift **** and place one hand over the top, and begin pulling upward hard and working it alternately clockwise and counterclockwise very sightly. You'll feel it begin to give way. Get ready. It lets go suddenly.

4. Continue to pull straight up and keep your palm over the top of the ****. There's a stout spring under the release button and it will leave town unless you hold it down as the **** comes free.

5. Once the **** comes free, you can feed the wires through the channel at the front of the ****.

6. Replacement is the reverse. You can use heat-shrink tubing on the spade connections in place of the plastic covers.

 

On the 940 there are no connectors, the wires are soldered to the switch.

 

No biggie. That's what wire cutters and heat-shrink tubing is for. Just pop the switch and cut the wires, leaving a pigtail for a splice.

 

Glad you finally got it, thanks for posting the instructionsfor future reference.

 

Hi guys! I noticed a lack of pictures to be found when I was researching this repair. I hope that these pics make it easier for other folks to remove this ****. I am glad I found dmg4's helpful list of instructions, and hope that my contribution helps anyone with questions.