First off, a little about my car: 1993 Volvo 240 sedan with a 5-speed manual and about 210,000 miles on it. I have not had the car very long, about a month. However, in that month, the only issue it has given me was a snapped belt. Went ahead and replaced all the belts to be safe.

It has given me no other issues until yesterday. I started it up without any issue, but after a second of running, it stalls out. If I give it gas it'll keep running, but if I let up, it stalls out again. The gearing does not effect it though because if I leave it in neutral it'll stall, just as if I'm in 1st with the clutch in. (Just to rule out any transmission issues)

I figure that it may be an issue in the fuel system, but I'd like a little advice from someone who has more Volvo experience. Any assistance you can give me is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

 

the 245 is a 240 wagon. pay no attention to the tag on the back.

0) check the OBD. Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes

1) idle switch on throttle
engine off, under the hood, gently move the throttle pulley on and off idle, just as it starts to move you should hear a 'click' from the idle switch. if you don't hear the click, good chance the throttle plate is gummed up. even if you do hear the click, its a good idea to pop the connector off and use an ohmmeter across the switch to verify its opening/closing as you move the throttle.

2) gummed up throttle body - remove the big intake hose, and peer inside the throttle with a small bright flashlight, see if its gummed up. if it is, remove the throttle body, and clean with a toothbrush and some solvent.

3) gummed up or broken idle control valve - this gem is under the intake manifold and has two hoses about 1.5cm in diameter, one to each side of the throttle. its electrically controlled by the ECU when the switch (1) says its at the idle position, and controls how much air is allowed to bypass the throttle to maintain a ~ 700 rpm idle. its kind of a beast to get to, but should be cleaned out with some solvent or carb cleaner or whatever, and tested by hooking 12V up to it and verifying that it opens/closes on demand. LH2.4 has a diagnostic test mode #3 you can invoke from the on board diag (OBD) block on the left suspension hump which cycles this idle control valve along with other things (it runs the electric fan a few times, clicks the injectors a few times, clicks the idle control valve a few times, etc, then repeats). See that OBD page above for how to run this DTM#3 test.

tons more useful info here,
Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx
(a 93 240 is very similar to a 940 with LH2.4 injection, only major differences are location of relays and distributor, and the 940 has a 'radio suppression relay that the 240 doesn't need).

 

Pierce,

Thank you for the prompt response. I checked the OBD diagnostic block and ports 2 and 6 (the ones described in your link) had good 1-1-1 codes.

When I moved the throttle, I did not hear a click, but I will take a closer look at the idle switch as you said.

I removed the air filter box and blew out the air filter. I also removed the MAF sensor and wiped down both sides of it and put some electrical connector protector on both ends of the plug. After I hooked everything up and put it all back, I started the car and it successfully idled for about 5 seconds and then stalled back out. Any thoughts?

Also, I bought Seafoam engine cleaner, but I left it at my friend's place. Is this something worth trying? And should I put it all into the gas tank, or split the can between the gas and the oil?

Thanks Again!

 

my seafoam regimen is as follows..

1. put the larger size can of seafoam into a mostly empty tank and HALF fill it with premium gas (say, 6-8 gallons).
2. drive the $@$@ out of it at high RPMs, like get out on the freeway and stay in 2nd or 3rd, running the engine up near redline, until you're nearly out of gas. think "italian tuneup".
3. refill tank with fresh gas, drive some more to flush the rest of the seafoam out of the system
4. change your oil and filter as soon as practical, its full of crud now.

only thing I put in my crankcase is fresh Mobil One 10w30.

 

I have a 1993 240 Wagon that I got at auction, drove it home fine (mostly) then it died. Same symptoms, would start idle for a bit then cut out.

I checked air box, cleaned MAF, new plugs, wires, cap, found a cracked flame trap hose (the little s bend one that goes into the block). Still had same issues.

Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and started it up to relieve the fuel pressure (was looking into the fuel system now), put the fuse back in and it started right up and ran for a good 45 min. Figured it was a fuel issue. Listened for the fuel pump in tank priming, very faint. Replaced in tank pump (pain in the ***), problem solved.

Not saying that's your issue but mine was the fuel pump.

 

I cleaned the air intake + throttle body and ran 2 cans of Seafoam through it and that got it up and running, but it presents an odd issue that hopefully someone on this forum can diagnose.

When I first start up the 240, it acts as if it is about to stall out. Sometimes it will stall out; other times it will drop to low revs and sputter a bit, but not stall out. The odd part is that this only happens when I start it up. Once I start driving on the road, it is incredibly smooth and idles just fine at red lights, stop signs, etc.

Anyone happen to know what could cause this?

 

hmm. a 1993 is LH2.4 and doesn't have a seperate cold start injector, so thats ruled out.

maybe the ECT (Engine Coolant Sensor) is a bit wonky, and the ECU (Engine Control Unit) doesn't realize its cold... The ECT can be tested with a volt meter in 'ohms' mode. See http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...eSensors1.html

Thats just a guess, it could easily be something else instead.

 

My '90 and '91 240s are LH2.4 and have a cold start injector. Did they remove this in later model cars?

 

hmmm. I *thought* LH2.4 got rid of it entirely, I know neither my 740 nor my sons old 940 have it (but oh yeah, these are both turbos). In which case, if you do have a cold start injector ("Starting Valve" on the parts diagrams), its a prime candidate for these symptoms. either clogged or funky wiring to it...

 

I like the the temperature sensor idea its relatively cheap also except its below the intake manifold.

Pierce, Is there a way to test the cold start injector beside the #3 obd test you spoke about in another post. Or is there a way to eliminate it from the system all together.

 

well, if you disconnect the cold start injector, and the behavior doesn't change, that tells me the cold start injector isn't working.

I think I'd hook a 'noid light' up to the wires going to it, and start the car when cold, see if the light comes on. if it doesn't, then there's a problem with the wiring (or the ECU). if it does, then there's possibly a problem with the cold start injector itself.


a noid light is just a 12 volt light (or LED) that has a connector compatible with the one on the fuel injectors. you unplug the wire from the injector, and plug the noid light into the wire... if the light blinks or comes on, you know you're getting a signal to the injector... they sell these, or you could just jury-rig up something with a 12V test light, and some mini clips or something.

 

Hi i have an 87 740 turbo (automatic) any way i was driving home from school coastin along like a granny and all the sudden my car died all the lights on the dash went up and the steering got tight... i pulled over and started it back up i got a couple blocks and then it died on me again... i go to start it again and it starts up idles relly low then high then low and the process repeats till it dies again. i managed to start it again after leting it sit for a few minutes. if i reved it up it wouldnt die. so i quickly put into drive and got the rest of the way home... i have started it since and it has the same idle issue. im scared to be driving it and have it die on an arterial i really need to figure out whats wrong with it and fix it before monday i know it cant be anything to serious becuase iv really been babying this car i think it might be a sesor or something but to be honest i have no idea what it is or where to start if i could get any tips i would be they would be greatly appretiated

 

you really should strt a new thread and not post this on a different thread about a completely differnet model car.

the first step in your diagnosis is to determine if its lack of fuel or lack of spark thats causing this. an 87 turbo uses LH2.2 fuel injection, whihc is somewhat different in the details than the later LH2.4 system, it uses a hall sensor inside the distributor for timing.
1987 was the last of a few years where many volvos had bad wiring, socalled 'biodegradable insulation', if your car has this, then it could be any number of wiring problems brought on by failing insulation.