Short from tail light, fuse #15 keeps blowing
Hi, so my left running light went out the other day (the brake portion of the same light still works) I saw a busted fuse and replaced it. It worked right after when I checked it, so I figured it was good. Later the same day I got into my car and started it, turned the lights on, and immediately, the same fuse blew, #15. I replaced it a couple times to no avail, so it must be a short, right? This will be my first time working on electrical stuff so not too sure where to start. I will check all the wires coming from that light, it's ground wire, and wires coming to/from the fuse. Am I basically looking for a place where the wire could be grounding before it gets to the light? Any help appreciated, thank you.
if its a wagon, it might be a short at the hinge where all the wires go to the tailgate stuff (wiper, license plate, 3rd brake light). those wires at the hinge flex every time you open/close the tailgate, eventually the insulation fails... especially on 1981-1987 cars which had 'biodegradable' insulation.
thats not ordinary wire, btw, its a special high strand count flexible wire. there's two harnesses, the left hinge does the 3rd brake, wiper, and license plates, and is PN 3544695 (no idea if this is still available at the dealer).
thats not ordinary wire, btw, its a special high strand count flexible wire. there's two harnesses, the left hinge does the 3rd brake, wiper, and license plates, and is PN 3544695 (no idea if this is still available at the dealer).
Found where they are, some wires are even broken, guess that's why my rear wiper doesn't work. Should I put electrical tape around where the wires are exposed and then test the light again?
If it was me, I'd probably replace the trunk harness, the part number I gave above was for the one on the left side hinge, 1348019 is the one on the right hand hinge.
the problem with trying to repair it, it has to flex in that hinge, your repairs have to be at least as good as the original, or it will fail in short order. the alternative would be to open up the tailgate (remove the inside panel) and extract that whole harness piece, lay it out on a workbench, and splice in new automotive (or better, aircraft) grade wiring of the same gauge and strand count, then reinstall the harness.
the problem with trying to repair it, it has to flex in that hinge, your repairs have to be at least as good as the original, or it will fail in short order. the alternative would be to open up the tailgate (remove the inside panel) and extract that whole harness piece, lay it out on a workbench, and splice in new automotive (or better, aircraft) grade wiring of the same gauge and strand count, then reinstall the harness.
ah, the two harnesses are $45 each. parts 4 and 5 on this diagram and table
Volvo Cable harness, Cable harness, bottom rail- boot LID/TAILGATE
thats the right one if you have a 3rd brake light, if you don't have a 3rd brake light, use the 'other' #4 thats $50 ... same #5 on the right hinge either way.
Volvo Cable harness, Cable harness, bottom rail- boot LID/TAILGATE
thats the right one if you have a 3rd brake light, if you don't have a 3rd brake light, use the 'other' #4 thats $50 ... same #5 on the right hinge either way.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Aweasel
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
3
Jan 23, 2009 11:40 PM



