1. What is this? It's hooked up to something but I can't for the life of me figure out what it is.



2. What exactly would you recommend If I were to change my air box to a K&N style air filter? I wouldn't think K&N would sell something for a 740, and even then they are ridiculously overpriced for what they are.

3. Is there any benefit or bad side to running the exhaust without a muffler? I have a muffler and my friend and I were thinking about taking it off just to see what it would sound like, but if it's terrible sounding it would save him and I the trouble. Does anyone have any video examples?

4. My brake light is on, but there's nothing wrong that I can feel with the brakes other than my right front sticks a bit. I was reading that the brakes have a backup system, could my main system be gone and it's running on that. I was also thinking the brake fluid may have too much copper in it because it looks pretty old, but I don't think the computer can detect something like that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll have a lot of random questions as time goes on so I figure it would be best to throw it all in one thread

 

Hi,
1. I think that maybe the thing in your picture is an amplifier...but I could be wrong.

2. Air filters- my 2 cents- I bought a new $10 air filter at pepboys- and it helped a lot. I think the most important part is having a fresh filter. Sure it may not last as long, but it's only $10. Maybe if you're into performance modding then filters can make a difference...regular driving- probably not that much...

3. mufflers are there for a reason...to muffle. But also consider that depending on where your o2 sensor is and all those sorts of things, if you had a different exhaust set up it might throw off those sensor readings, and then of course you might have a poor running engine...

4.Not sure.

I'm not terribly experienced but I like to use common sense...
see what the others say..
Happy motoring,
Koos

 

K&N filters are a waste of money in my professional opinion. Use a high quality air filter like Volvo or Baldwin to keep the engine clean.

Run a muffler please.

 

1. Aftermarket amp.
2. K&N is OK but pricey. Just get a new air filter.
3. Leave the muffler to do its muffling.
4. Check the brake switch first, the one above the brake pedal. Change the brake fluid.

 

1. It looks like an amplifier.
2. I wouldn't use K&N.
3. Depending on your jurisdiction, it's probably illegal for highway driving. Off-road, there's a benefit of reduced exhaust restriction.
4. If the brake warning light is on it's likely a problem with the master cylinder or the junction box. They are often replaced at the same time. If yours are original I would have them checked out.

 

1. radio signal amplifier
2. K&N will get you a whopping 2hp out of your car at most. But, it can also ruin your AMM. I personally like foam airfilters. If you know how to clean them and oil them they'll allow the most air through and do a great job cleaning the air as it comes through. I've ran them forever on dirtbikes and started using them in cars a few years back, and never looked back at paper filters again.
3. You can run a straight exhaust, but it's going to really bother you after awhile. It won't be raspy like a honda either it'll just be loud! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOSBCwS12Bg keep in mind that guy has a turbo in line quieting the car down to.
4 ^

 

That's interesting about the air box. I just figured I'd look into it because usually stock air boxes can be pretty restrictive, but I guess it's a Volvo.

As for the exhaust I wouldn't mind if it was loud, I drove my Barracuda with a V8 with full dual and glasspacks for the longest time, I could set of car alarms with it. But judging from the videos I've seen it doesn't sound too too great, I'll stick with the muffler for now.

If that's the case I'll just play it by ear with the brakes. As long as they work I'm happy, lol. I'll take a look at it but I'll save the taking apart for when I have the money.

 

Listen Barracuda, speaking as a man whose exhaust system crumbled out from underneath him and was never really fully restored to a fully-functional state, do NOT touch your mufflers you will miss them and you won't be able to get your exhaust system back to the state it was in before you touched it. There's also the matter that mufflers aren't really meant to be taken off once they're fitted. They're hard to remove even before the fittings rust together like yours have undoubtedly done.

 

Why is this the forum for I got a 240 or 740 and I'm going to put straight pipes on it, a turbo charger, ported headers, nitrous, a v8, new cam, rocket engine, and 72 ford pinto medalion on the front????

Seriously, these aren't performance cars. Even a 240 with a turbo can barely keep up with a stock 89 mustang!!!

Its called turbobricks.com

OK i've calmed down now, carry on.

 

I never said I was going to do anything crazy to it, nor did I imply that it's a performance car, I know it's not. Believe me, I'm missing the torque from my Barracuda already, even with the turbo I have to put it in second just to accelerate faster than a grandma. All I asked was if the exhaust sounded better without the muffler, a lot of cars do, obviously the Volvo isn't one of them. The exhaust from the cat back is all brand new so it wouldn't be too hard to remove, but I'm not going to so it doesn't matter.

As for the air box I only asked because sometimes it actually helps the engine breath better, less strain on the engine the better. Plus the rednecks that owned it last lost all the clips so the top is screwed down with wood screws.

 

I've been doing some work on the 740 and alas I've come to some problems that I need better help with.

1. It seems that a lot of the Volvos on here have idling problems, so it's no big surprise that I have one too. When I start it it feels bogged down and idles between 700-1000. I put it in reverse and I have to rev it or else it will stall, then quickly put it into drive and start going or it will stall. After that when I come to a stop it will idle low again and feel like it's going to stall. Once I start going it's fine until I have to stop again and it will either idle a bit higher or still run low. This doesn't happen all the time, and for the most part it usually does it in the morning and only sometimes later on. Other times I'll start it and it will run perfectly fine in the 1100+ range, but it can still be a bit erratic with the needle moving up and down slightly.

My main suspicion is the PCV valve, but I can't seem to find the damn the thing. I have a Haynes manual but where they show it in the book is either not where mine is or I'm stupid. Is it below the intake manifold?

2. At one point when the previous owners had it the turbo broke and crapped oil all through my intake. I know this because they told me and they never bothered to change any of the hoses so I've had to replace two and clean the rest out. My question is is it bad to still use the intercooler after something like that? I took the drain plug off and most of the oil that was in there was in the plug, so they must have drained it when it happened, and that was just the residual oil that finally settled to the bottom.

3. My rear windshield wiper has never worked, but I've never really known how to get it working either. The rear sprayer works, but I cant seem to get the wiper going no matter how I move the stick, how is it supposed to work? I took the panel off the back and all the wiring looks fine, better than most of my wiring in fact, so either the motor is gone or I'm not doing it right.

4. This is just more of an interest but what is the actual range of the boost gauge psi wise?

 

I'd check the Idle Control Valve and give it a good cleaning, then take a look at the Throttle Body and clean that--both are simple DIY and cost nothing...

As far as the wiper, check the fuse/relay first then see if there's juice at the wiring before the motor. These things usually fail at the wiring harness at the gate opening...

 

How do you remove the idle control valve, just unscrew the whole thing or only the inner bit. I took off every hose going to the intake and TB and gave it all as good as a cleaning as I could without taking it off with plenty of TB cleaner, but I was a bit apprehensive about the control valve.

If you have to take the entire thing off I'm assuming you have to readjust it afterward. I read somewhere that you have to ground a blue and white wire near the battery (which I couldn't find when I looked) then adjust it to 700, but to me 700 seems a bit low, is that actually what it should be idling at?

Also I found where the PCV is, but there's a plastic box around it with one bolt securing it and all I can see is the hose going into it. Is it ok to take that bolt off, and if I do get it off does it need to go back on or was it just put on for the hell of it?

I'm sorry for all the questions but the Haynes manual I have is pretty damn useless for some things, especially when it comes to the PCV.

 

The Idle Valve is not adjustable as far as I know. Are you may be talking about the Throttle Pos Sensor? The Idle Valve is under the intake with three hoses going into it. I just take it off and run some carb cleaner through it to make sure it operates smoothly-the spring loaded opening.
The PCV is not a valve in a Volvo but a hose system on top of an oil separator, a "flame trap" in non turbos. You can take that whole thing off and clean it well by running some carb cleaner through it. Remove the intake manifold to get access to the plastic box-easier than it sounds... and saves a lot of PIA. This doesn't normally affect ildling though but if plugged it may make the car blow out a seal and cause oil leaks.

 

I thought the idle control valve was the black **** on the bottom of the TB, but I know what you're talking about now I think.

Right now most of my oil is exiting through the oil cap so I'm thinking the PCV is clogged, and I might need a new oil cap too. Can I hurt anything by using carb or even brake cleaner, I know with the TB you need to use TB cleaner or else it will eat up the seals, I just don't want those other things to screw up because I used carb cleaner.

 

The oil separator box (PCV) is plastic and I believe you can use carb cleaner liberally--or buy a new one--they are cheap...
The ICV, I use harsh cleaners always with caution--generally a brief contact will be ok...

 

Heh, dont know that for sure; Janemba can dematerialize and well I dont think Gohan can beat Janemba. And about Broly, can he really beat him? I mean, the guy is practically invincible.