Special tool to remove front strut?
#1
Special tool to remove front strut?
'86 240 DL
Who knows where I can get the tool to take off a front strut? It needs to be a box end that sticks out downwards to reach the bolt but allow the top of the strut to remain exposed so you can stabilize the top of it with like a crescent wrench or vice grips. Is this a special tool?
Who knows where I can get the tool to take off a front strut? It needs to be a box end that sticks out downwards to reach the bolt but allow the top of the strut to remain exposed so you can stabilize the top of it with like a crescent wrench or vice grips. Is this a special tool?
#2
I ran into similar issue with an Audi strut - I wound up using a socket designed for an O2 sensor but you should be able to also use a 1/2 socket and grab the outside with some HD visegrips (use an impact socket not a shiny chrome one). If you are replacing the strut you can also use a visegrip to grab the rod below the seat (since you're gonna trash the strut anyways, scoring the rod doesn't matter).
#3
If so - I have replaced hundreds using large channel locks to loosen and tighten the nuts. Be sure to have weight on the tire when you loosen or finally tighten them - or you will be fighting the spring and probably won't get it undone or tight enough.
So - lift car slightly with tires on, push the dust boot up (if still there!) reach through the spring w channel locks, loosen strut nuts 1/2 turn. Hopefully you realize the strut does not have to be removed from the car, there is enough room to lower the strut, tilt it out of the wheel well, compresses the spring, replace the cartridge and reassemble without taking brakes/balljoint/etc apart. There's a couple of tricks to make that happen more safely - but can only take 1/2 hour to do each strut that way. And no Volvos are hurt during the process. Undo the sway bar link, undo the tie rod end, loosen the lower control arm bolts (on front and rear bushings or take the rear bushing housing loose) remove the bolt with the 12 mm head that secure the brake lines to the subframe, make a u shaped brace from a welding rod (or a coat hanger will work), use the two holes where the brake line brace was attached, and lean the strut out against that temporary support. Then compress, undo, replace, tighten large nut as best as possible (won't be able to get it fully tight with the strut flopping around), reassemble and do final tightenings.
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Me512Mike (03-13-2021)
#4
Are you talking about the large nut that holds the strut insert into the strut housing?
If so - I have replaced hundreds using large channel locks to loosen and tighten the nuts. Be sure to have weight on the tire when you loosen or finally tighten them - or you will be fighting the spring and probably won't get it undone or tight enough.
So - lift car slightly with tires on, push the dust boot up (if still there!) reach through the spring w channel locks, loosen strut nuts 1/2 turn. Hopefully you realize the strut does not have to be removed from the car, there is enough room to lower the strut, tilt it out of the wheel well, compresses the spring, replace the cartridge and reassemble without taking brakes/balljoint/etc apart. There's a couple of tricks to make that happen more safely - but can only take 1/2 hour to do each strut that way. And no Volvos are hurt during the process. Undo the sway bar link, undo the tie rod end, loosen the lower control arm bolts (on front and rear bushings or take the rear bushing housing loose) remove the bolt with the 12 mm head that secure the brake lines to the subframe, make a u shaped brace from a welding rod (or a coat hanger will work), use the two holes where the brake line brace was attached, and lean the strut out against that temporary support. Then compress, undo, replace, tighten large nut as best as possible (won't be able to get it fully tight with the strut flopping around), reassemble and do final tightenings.
If so - I have replaced hundreds using large channel locks to loosen and tighten the nuts. Be sure to have weight on the tire when you loosen or finally tighten them - or you will be fighting the spring and probably won't get it undone or tight enough.
So - lift car slightly with tires on, push the dust boot up (if still there!) reach through the spring w channel locks, loosen strut nuts 1/2 turn. Hopefully you realize the strut does not have to be removed from the car, there is enough room to lower the strut, tilt it out of the wheel well, compresses the spring, replace the cartridge and reassemble without taking brakes/balljoint/etc apart. There's a couple of tricks to make that happen more safely - but can only take 1/2 hour to do each strut that way. And no Volvos are hurt during the process. Undo the sway bar link, undo the tie rod end, loosen the lower control arm bolts (on front and rear bushings or take the rear bushing housing loose) remove the bolt with the 12 mm head that secure the brake lines to the subframe, make a u shaped brace from a welding rod (or a coat hanger will work), use the two holes where the brake line brace was attached, and lean the strut out against that temporary support. Then compress, undo, replace, tighten large nut as best as possible (won't be able to get it fully tight with the strut flopping around), reassemble and do final tightenings.
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