Back about a year ago, I switched out a lot of suspension parts including the struts and everything else in the strut assembly expect for the springs. I started hearing a squeaking from the passenger assembly recently and also noticed some movement at the strut mount. I pulled everything back apart and found that the cross shaped strut mount fitting had loosened but then sandwiched the strut mount cap between itself and the strut bolt top lock nut. Now, when I try to remove the top lock nut, it also loosens the cap and the cross fitting beneath along with it. I'm worried that as I run out of space to hold at the top of the strut by loosening the top nut I will be stuck with a very un-tightened strut assembly with no way of removing the remaining components without damaging the strut.

Long story, short: I need to find a way to tighten the cross fitting while un-tightening the strut bolt top nut

All else fails, I buy a new strut, but being that they have less than 13000 on them, I'd prefer not to...yet

 

Get yourself some spring compression tools before you hurt yourself. Once they are in place do what you have to do to get the strut fixed. I have heard people write that cheap spring seats can go out real fast, like within a year.

 

I've got the new spring seat. Even still, I cant get the top strut bolt nut off before I run out of strut blot to grip onto, even using that weird volvo strut tool that holds the strut while you remove/reinstall the cross fitting. The top nut and the cross fitting have compressed the strut cap between them

 

you need to have all pressure off the strut bearing before you go tightening anything.

compress the spring as much as possible using a spring compression spring.

you need a T47 torx and 3/8 ratchet. I like using large channel locks to turn the cross nut while holding the strut shaft with the torx and ratchet. get it tight as you can with out killing yourself.

the lock nut zap off with impact. back on with impact, but don't kill it. 3 second rule on the locking nut with the impact.

use OEM only on the strut bushings. cheap ones do not hold up.

also you need to have the entire assembly out of the car to work on it safely. i have seen strut bearing go through block walls with the pressure of the spring on it. (a compressor tool broke.) happened to the neighboring shop a few weeks ago.

 

Thanks for the advice. All the work on the assembly has been with it removed from the car and with the spring compressed. I'm going to try again here shortly, I'm in the process of moving, so once my new garage gets settled I'll get back to it.

I'm a little confused though about the T47 torx. I have sachs struts and I don't see anywhere on the strut shaft that would accept a torx socket. Volvo Strut Tool - CTA Manufacturing CTA-A446 | FCP Euro This is what I've used to hold the strut shaft from rotating while I'm working on it. Does anyone know what material exactly the strut cap is made of? I'm wondering if I can just demolish it to gain access to the cross fitting and just replace it with a new one

 

ohh sorry about that I have been working on s80 strut bushings (3 cars) the past few days.

use a adjustable wrench on the top flats.