Squealing Start & Creeky Steering (1984)

Old Aug 26, 2020 | 12:25 AM
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Default Squealing Start & Creeky Steering (1984)

Two puzzling items with my 1984 240 brick w about 240,000 miles.

1. Today I had my front tire rods (inner & outer) replaced, along w engine mounts.

When I started my car, just as it started to turn over there was a loud squealing sound. It's happened several times. Ugh. Go in for one thing, and then new sounds? The last 2 times I started it, no squeal. Could it be overspray from the cleaner used installing the new tire rods - overspray onto a moving belt or such?

2. Ongoing Creaky Steering - wheel, column, struts??

I thought changing my tire rods would cure the sqeaky noise. Just a small reduction. (I do need to change my front struts - my mechanic says the strut insides can be replaced on my year & model.)

The noise happens primarily when I turn, especially a 90 degree turn left or right. The noise seems to be coming - from my novice ear - from the steering column or left front end?

I also now hear a little rattling noise on the front left. Struts, or the charcoal filter?

(I should add that my left front wheel and basics were salvaged off my first Volvo (1981), it probably has 350,000 - 400,000 miles on it.)

Thank you in advance.

 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ML1999
When I started my car, just as it started to turn over there was a loud squealing sound.

Ongoing creaky noise
A loud squeal when first started can come from the alternator belts - they don't contact the alternator pulley much because of the angles involved and if slightly loose - or mismatched - they squeal right after first started. Can be really bad if there is only one belt because the compressor is locked up and that belt slot is used to power the steering pump.

The steering u joint - in the steering column - can rust and seize - makes a funny creaky/popping noise


 
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Old Aug 26, 2020 | 07:28 PM
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Thank you! The good news is that, so far today, the squeaking sound hasn't appeared. My novice guess is cleaning liquid on a belt somewhere.

Two Questions:
1. Changing a u joint for a pro is about 45 minutes? 2. Is the diagnosis for a professional relatively easy?

(I also read a reference to the steering column and some kind of joint.)

The body of my 242 is pretty straight, but it needs a paint job, drivers seat rebuild, and I'm getting a succession of modest repairs. The radiator six months ago, plus about 5 hoses, brake master cylinder a month ago, and I just replaced the complete front tie rods & engine mounts. My mechanic (who I trust & have known for 30+ years now) also says my front struts need new inserts. (He says my make & style allow the inner replacement.)

I thought the tie rod replacement would fix this creaky noise. I'm not a rich guy, so just hoping to buy a few parts to keep certain job costs down If I can supply the U joint, save money and time (for the part delivery), it would be helpful. Never took shop, not mechanical, but hey, I upgraded to Hela low beams and had a little fun w that basic job.

(A Latino colleague introduced me to a young Latino professional mechanic who works at a large public recycling center. Think massive bulldozers and other heavy operating equipment. He said he does side work. I'm tempted. But the downside is he likely may not know the Volvo tricks and issues.)

Thanks again!
 

Last edited by ML1999; Aug 26, 2020 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2020 | 12:17 PM
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Conclusion: it was the steering wheel pump getting ready to die. I'll summarize for reference purposes.

A small oil leak got bigger, and then when steering became difficult I opened the hood and there was oil on the underneath side of the hood, drivers side. The front seal was shot.

I ordered the new pump, hoses (2), and bushings (4) from IPD. I opted for the hard rubber, not the fancy polyurethane bushings which had several complaints posted online.

My mechanic only charged $100 for the install, $30 for fluid and $10 for 2 bottles of cleaner (oil everywhere). (This was done along w new front strut inserts.)

 
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