Have you checked fuel pump relay.

 

Yes, I swapped it with one from my 1992 240

 

OK, so on my 93 I removed fuse #4 and jumpered from fuse #6 to the right hand contact on fuse #4 and with a mechanics stethoscope shoved into the fuel neck I cannot hear the in-tank pump running

I tried the same thing on my 1992(this one does not have a problem) and I can hear the in-tank pump running.

The tank on the one that I cannot hear running(this is the one with the issue) is half-way filled with gas, while the one that I can hear the pump running on(this one does not have the issue) is almost empty.

Should I be able to hear the pump running even though the tank is half filled with gas when I use the stethoscope in the fuel neck?

 

I would think so. the ultimate test would be to disconnect the hose from the tank to the external pump, and stick it into a jug or something, and power the pump and verify you get gas.

 

Added gas to the 92 to bring it up to the same level as the 93. Yes, I can still hear the in-tank pump in the 92, but not the 93. Thanks Pierce!

Is there any significance to the fact that when I touch the 12v jumper to the right hand contact of fuse #4(fuse is removed) that I get a spark, but no in-tank pump?

Also, how hard is it to remove that hose to perform the ultimate test?

 

I believe that fuse 4 powers the heater on the Oxygen sensor as well - thus the spark even though the in-tank pump is not running.

Just food for thought, you should be able to hear the in-tank pump run regardless of the fuel level in the tank. It could be that your in-tank pump is intermittent and may be on its way out. Reading on Art Benstein's web site (In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender) that when the in-tank pump fails after years of service it is usually the brushes that wear out. When this happens the pump may work intermittently.

 

I stopped for a '93 240 in the middle of the street in busy traffic the other day. My first thought was the in-tank fuel pump. Stuck a plumbing line down the filler neck and could NOT hear the pump. Wasn't sure if those had the 2 pump system like my '87 740 did.

 

if you jumper 6 to 4, with fuse 4 in place, you're powering BOTH fuel pumps (and the o2 sensor). only the tank pump is on fuse 4, but the other pump is on the input side of that fuse, so it gets the power too (fuse 6 is always-on)

 

Update- removed cover over sending unit in trunk, jumpered fuse 6 to fuse 4(right side, fused removed) and in-tank pump did not activate!

Will be ordering pump, small fuel line hose, sender cover seal tomorrow.

Will let you all know the outcome once I install it.

Any tips on that one fuel lines that seems to be "shrink wrapped" to the connector?

Thanks

 

Take a look at the link I had in my previous post (here it is again: In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender). In that link, he cut the shrink wrapped hose and used a 5/16" ID fuel line hose over it. It isn't high pressure so just a short piece of hose with couple of clamps over the plastic "shrink wrap" hose will do the trick.

 

I had seen those pictures earlier. I understood that I could clamp the 5/16" hose over the end at the pump, I just wasn't sure what to clamp the 5/16" over at the other end. So, I just trim back the outer hose and clamp to the 5/16" to the shrink wrap hose that sits underneath, correct?

 

Correct. I would make sure there is plenty of overlap - at least an inch or so.

 

Just spent 2 hours replacing a non-working in-tank pump. Many thanks to those who gave me advice. And without jinxing myself, I think this should take care of my "hot stall" problem.