Hi Fellow Volvo enthusiasts,

I am super excited to become a member of this society. IMHO cars really embody the personality of their owners. Some of the nicest people I met drive Volvo wagons. Anyway, just picked up a one-owner 740 wagon yesterday and I plan to slowly make that my daily driver. The car last ran in 2015 but it fired up yesterday (the owner wanted to show me it runs), runs rough, smelled like turpentine, and eventually died. The car is sitting in my garage right now (without a battery), and I am looking for some recommendations in what simple stuff I can do in order to prepare it to start.

A little note about myself: I am an undergrad mechanical engineer studying in the United States, no master mechanic but had some backyard mechanical experience fixing up BMW E30s, old fords, and Range Rover classics (awesome cars despite the rep, but too high running cost for me). Currently, the Volvo is my only car and I hope it will be reliable transportation for a long time to come.

This is what I am thinking:
1. Battery
2. Although gas is old, I don't see a drain plug on the tank, and last time I tried draining the gas from my range rover killed the fuel pump so I am inclined to add new gas to dilute it and maybe some additive? Would this be sufficient given the car already starts on its own?
3. Fluid checks, coolant and motor oil
4. Clean MAF? Don't know how though.
5. New air filter and motor oil once it starts.
6. is it necessary to squirt some WD40 in the spark plug holes?
7. How necessary is it to change the fuel filter or should I consider doing that later?
.
Any input would be appreciated.
1989 740 GL Wagon

 

I think I would drain the tank via the fuel pump, but if you didn’t want to do that, what about via the fuel schrader valve if the pump is still good or just stick a hose down the fuel filler and siphon it out.

 

1. new battery and check the grounds including the engine to the body
2. it's very hard to pull fuel from the tank through the filler, if it only has a little in it now, a fresh tank might be enough
3. if history of maintenance is unknown, change oil and coolant, top off PS reservoir and check the oil level in the differential
4. I wouldn't touch it unless it's necessary
5. definitely, and clean out the air-box
6. not sure how much the WD-40 would help, but if you are going to pull the plugs, go very slowly. Plugs that are in for a long time tend to bind to the aluminum head and can be very difficult. Take it easy on them.
7. If the gas is old (yes) change the fuel filter. It's easiest if you remove the pump and filter in the support cage and do it on a bench. The banjo bolts can be hard to remove with a wrench, and impact gun works wonders.
8. check all your coolant hoses, including the ones to the heater core. Try not to mess with the heater core unless it's necessary.
9. use some weed-whacker whip line to snake the 4 sunroof drains (each corner)
10. check the tail-light foam seals, old ones can cause leaks
11. use the factory approved method of checking automatic transmission fluid level
12 replace as many of the front bushings as you can, if you don't have a press, just replace the radius rod bushings and the swaybar bushings
13. check your tie-rod ends
14. you could replace the motor mounts by yourself (good instructions on line) and replace the transmission mount bushing
15. if you ever disconnect the drive shaft, paint lines on the flanges so you can always reconnect it properly

 

I fired up a 87 wagon that sat in a garage and last started in 2005. Tank had bad gas (strong turpentine smell) as likely in your case. Gas degrades overtime and the void space in the tank leads to condensation, in which case the metal tanks rust from inside out. I decided to replace the tank. I pumped out old gas using handpump (harbor freight). Dropping the tank and releasing it from the filler neck was straightforward. On inspection of the old tank, I found significant rust and debris, which justified replacement.

Replacing fuel filter is a must, since it is likely contaminated with gum and varnish. I also replaced both fuel pumps and the fuel sender. The in-tank pump and sender were covered with gum and tarnish and had a ripped filter. The pump next to the filter worked, and a new Bosch pump ($90) made sense.

I also changed most fluids and oils (DOT 4, coolant, oil, differential oil, ATF, PS (ATF)). With new battery, the car started on second try. I've since change many other maintenance parts along the way, including suspension and exhaust.

Also, clean all grounding points, which in my case helped the overall running condition. Almost everything degrades after decades. Next is the A/C.

Good luck with yours and keep updating progress.

 

@Parlee240 @admasters @WGNLVR Thanks for the tips, I got the new battery and it started right up the other day. So I got a new fuel filter and was going to replace it. I could not figure out how to disconnect the banjo bolt, and the fuel gauge reads low (not sure if it is working), so I decided to go get some fresh fuel first and maybe a carwash, gosh you won't believe how much spiders there are in the car (I was scared to have them colorful spiders so close to me when I am wrenching). I wish I would have not taken the shortcut and went through all the steps. Dumb mistake. It took a solid 2 minutes of cranking to start up the Blu wagon, and when it did start (with a lot of pumping on the gas) it was misfiring as if it was running on one cylinder. I really hope I haven't messed up too much. Later this week I will go get a vice grip or something and remove the main fuel pump assembly. I think I will end up getting a new main fuel pump as well.

 

The pumps are likely OK if you got it to start! The misfire could be from flooding or just spark plugs that need replacement.

 

I dumped a can of Seafoam in the gas tank to clean lines and injectors. Banjo bolts could be difficult to remove especially if your grip on the filter slips. I used impact gun to easily remove them. Your fuel sender and in-tank fuel pump are likely heavily covered with gum and varnish, and could affect the fuel gauge. The sender/pump are accessible through the trunk. On my car, the sender/pump had to be replaced. The attached filter sock was also torn.

 

Update: New oil and filter; Spark Plug, and changed fuel filter (which was a PITA but so much easier with an impact gun). The car would run but a little rough, needed foot on the gas to stay alive.
P.S. I wanted to dump out the old fuel in the tank but I did not feel ready to deal with it yet (very intimidating videos to access the fuel tank) Plus car was running on the bad fuel so I changed the filter instead.

Fast forward to today, silly as I am, decided to get some new premium fuel in the gas station. The wgn reached the fuel station but did not start since. It would crank but no action and eventually the battery was done so I had to call a tow truck.

- Do you guys think I made a mistake not installing the main fuel pump along with the filter? [but I did hear a whirring sound when turning the key every time, could this also be the ecu?]
- What other problem would cause the crank no start situation?
- Another evidence was the old spark plug smelled like fuel when I took them out, so I am guessing fuel was reaching the combustion chamber.

Help help help I do not want to get stranded in a gas station again

 

Ok, if you want my to cents, here it is. Yes, you need both pumps for the car to run properly. Volvo would not have put them on the car if they were not needed. Secondly, please stop running the car with the crappy old fuel and sediment in the tank. Pull the tank, clean it out, blow the fuel lines clean, replace any rubber fuel hoses and replace the fuel filter again. Trust me, you are doing the car no favors running old crappy gas and possible sediment through the fuel system and injectors. Once that issue is sorted you can move on to anything else.