OK, so I disconnected the steering U Joint to allow the cross brace to lower to facilitate oil pan work.

I have the steering U joint back in place, sort of. should the joint be perfectly straight on the upper/lower sections or because it's a joint it's not supposed to be that way?

The upper portion, which stayed on when it was disconnected is fine and the bolt with the pin fit fine.

The lower part, which I have all the way down the shaft, all the way down then length of the verical threads; the bolt with the clip won't go all the way through, there is a little small piece of what I am assuming is the shaft that is blocking the bolt.

I'm thinking taking it off and starting over would make sense but help is needed.


Thanks (and this thing will be back together one day!!!! lol)

 

MANUAL Steering Gear

steps 1 through 6 entail the removal of the manual steering gear...so we skip to re-installation.7) Install rubber spacers and plates for the steering gear attachment points.
8)Position the steering gear and guide the pinion shaft into the steering shaft. The recess on the pinion shaft should be aligned towards the lock bolt opening in the shaft.

9) Attach the steering gear to the front axle member. Check that the U-bolts are aligned in the plate slots. Install flat washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 10-18 ft-lbs.
10) Install splash guard....
11) connect the steering rods to the steering arms. Tighten the nuts to 44ft-lbs
12) Install the front wheels and lower the car
13) Install the lock bolt for the steering shaft flange. Tighten the bolt to 18ft-lbs
14) have the alignment checked and reset if needed

POWER Steering Gear
8) when re-installing, position the steering gear and attach the pinion shaft to the steering shaft flange. Take care to align the recess for the lock bolt.
9) Install right side U-bolt and bracket, but do NOT tighten the nuts.
10) Install left side retaining bolts, and tighten. Tighten U-bolts.
11) Connect the steering rods to the steering arms.
12) Install the lock bolt on the steering column flange.
13) connect the return and pressure hoses to the steering gear.
14) Fill the reservoir with Type A automatic trans fluid and bleed the system

LOOKS LIKE YOU MIGHT HAVE TO UNDO THE STEERING GEAR UNIT IN ORDER TO GIVE YOU THE RIGHT FITMENTS...ON THE UJOINTS....?

 

I bet I didn't line up that recess for the lock bolt and that is why the bolt wont go in on the bottom section. I did not totally remove the upper section so that would make sense why that one doesn't have the issue. Guess I know this weekends project (among others lol)

 

sounds about right....

book on ebay for 9 bucks....cheap and covers a ton with pics....guy still had about 7 NEW books left...
chilton manual 1970 to 89

 

I have never liked that chiltons book. a whole lot of it is boilerplate procedures that have just been warmed over lightly.. the Bentley 240 book has a lot more detail, and a lot more accurate. the catch-22 for any book like this is that its covering 20 years of cars with a wide range of engineering changes, several different motors, completely different fuel injection systems, etc.

p.s. the OP didn't mention what year/model car this is.

 

yes it's true, and would buy the Bentley but it is a bit pricey....eventually I will buy the Bentley as I hear very good things about it...

 

pierce - it's a 1993 240 wagon.

I finally bought a Bentley book and by far better than Haynes.

When I got this 240 at auction it actually had a brand new Haynes book in the back seat, score!!! and I've used Haynes for other cars too. But getting deeper into to stuff besides brakes jobs and such, Bentley gives more detail for sure. It is pricey but if you plan on having the car for a long time worth the investment.

 

if it saves you one hour of 'shop time' at a mechanic, its more than paid for itself...

 

Success!!

Guess I should have read up on that joint and that recess. All good now.

However, one last issue putting the steering back together. I had to disconnect the power steering hoses when I dropped the cross member; does anyone know where to get the washers for the banjo bolts?

I seem to be having troubles locating any big enough, one is a 16mm ID and the other 14mm ID.

Tried local auto parts store, they had brake line washers but they weren't nearly big enough.

 

according to the parts diagram, the steering banjos on the bottm there, one uses PN 18671, the other PN 11996 (2 of each).

Gasket. Volvo # 18671
Gasket. Volvo # 11996

amusingly, this same 'gasket' fits all sorts of cars, like 850s even.

its parts #28 and #32 on this diagram

 

Success again, finally.

Checked that website exactly what was needed, duh. 4 "gaskets", $4, shipping $10...............um, no.

So off on an adventure. Checked PepBoys website, said they had it at the store, guy claims it doesn't exist. Over to Advance Auto, barely had anything.

BTW, I was now looking at copper oil drain "gaskets".

Checked out the local tractor supply, nada.

Finally over to AutoZone of all places, on the rack of oil drain plugs on the left side, behind some other crap was a little box of 3 copper washers. One of them fit the big bolt, one of them fit the little bolt and I now have an extra M12 (I believe they were M12, M14, M16 in the pack). So 2 packs later and we're good to go.

 

I would have gone to a volvo dealer, armed with those part numbers.