So I got the car running back to where I wanted it and it was as smooth and nice as could be. Then about 2 weeks into driving it, when I started it up and it began to have a rough/sputtering idle which I thought went away after about 5 to 10 minutes of idling, then it would run smoothly. Upon first starting, it would run just fine if I pushed the gas and put it at 2k rpms, but if I took my foot off the gas it would go backk to a rough idle. I drove it to and from class without a hitch. I came home and let it sit for about 3 or 4 hours while I took a much "needed" nap, I woke up and wanted to go somewhere, so I came out to fire it up. I put the key in, cranked it over and it wouldn't stay running. As long as the key was in the start postion it would run, but studder too, and I'd rather not burn out this starter too so I haven't done anything since.

It's a (U.S. model) 1982 245 DL B21F engine with an M46 trans. I've replaced the fuel fump relay twice and the starter, less than 300 miles ago. And a few cosmetic things on the outside and inside.

So I'm curious what this might be? I still really like my car and whatnot, but I'd like to have a car that I don't have to worry about every 4 to 5 months... and because I hate driving a large/wide (front wheel drive) van with a passion...


Any input or questions, let me know or ask away....

Please and Thank You.

Here is a link to a video I made of the problem I'm experiencing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXrg8qTcNWM

 

The same thing is happening to my car. It's a 83 245 DL.
I feel like maybe it's a vacuum leak, who know?

 

I don't know. But I wouldn't think a vacuum leak would be that "distasterous" to it's starting and non-running status.

Plus I wouldn't even really know quite where to begin checking on mine. Since mine has that big flat/square/rectangle/block looking intake and what not. I'd like to check/replace my PCV but don't know where it is on my '82. But I have done it on my '91 and '92 245 DL's.

But anyway, I just want a running car and am pretty much stumped since my young brain/knowledge can only go so far...*sigh*

Anyone/someone, please help us?

 

Are all your vacuum lines still attached and intact?

 

Yes I do believe so?

 

I posted a video up top for you guys to view and determine what you think it could be.

 

I was reading somewhere else that these don't have PCVs, they have a fire arrestor or something (I'd not rely on this info unless you could find it again).

 

indeed, no PCV. Volvos have a 'oil trap' and most have a 'flame trap'. this oil trap is a plastic box that sits on the side of the block under the intake manifold, where its kind of hard to see or get to, and its connected via a 1" hose to the intake air path between the air cleaner and the throttle body. The flame trap is a screen/filter that sits in the oil trap. Much like a PCV this should be cleaned regularly for best operation as it tends to get gummed up.

that said, idle problems can come from various places. the engine block coolant temperature sensor will cause cold idle problems. there's an coldstart injector on a K-Jet engine, if its bad, the engine will run really poorly at idle when cold, but be OK once warmed up. There's an idle air control valve that bypasses the throttle to regulate the idle speed, if thats sticking or not working, your idle will be uneven, or too low or whatever. There's probably a bunch more k-jet specific stuff, but I'm more familiar with LH EFI systems so will have to back off and let someone else suggest k-jet (CIS) things.