Ok guys, my son finally received all the parts to place the suspension. We plan to tackle this project this weekend. Couple of things... I assume these struts are inserts ('94 940 base). How difficult will these be to replace? Will I need a torch? I can't image after 20yrs these struts are just gunna pull out right?

Thanks
Dom

 

New ball joints? if so...then you can tap them out from the bottom with a block of wood.

 

Yup we got new everything including ball joints. So basically the front shock is housed in like a steel sleeve to form the strut?

Thanks Dom

 

Yes, It should be. Unless some on convert to the 95+ 960 front style.

 

Its possible that you'll be lucky and the nut securing the shock insert will come right out, but chances are, you'll need to heat it up and take a couple good whacks with a punch and a hammer to get it to budge.

I'm hoping you are planning to replace the strut bellows as well. When I replaced my strut insert, I neglected to replace the bellows and no less than a few months later, they began disintegrating.

Just a few tips as I've done this myself recently:

• Remove the strut nut while the lower ball joint is still connected to the car. You will thank yourself later. Removing it while the strut is outside the car is quite a bit more difficult.
• Remove your caliper and secure it to the sway bar that you've disconnected. Otherwise, your brake lines can limit movement of your strut, and I thought that while leaving it connected, the lines were put under too much tension than I was comfortable with.
• Remove the Tie-rod end from the knuckle. This will give you more room to maneuver. you may want to leave it connected while you remove the strut nut.
• Tape up your outer fender. It is very easy to dent/chip the paint when manhandling the strut insert out of the wheel well.
• (optional) Remove the strut rod. I found it made removal of the strut very easy. Otherwise, you may need extra force to remove the strut. However, it is not significantly more difficult to do so with the strut rod still connected.
• (optional) remove your brake rotor to reduce the weight you have to deal with. Besides, your brake caliper is off already! Note* try not to bend the dust shield as you rest the lower control arm on some sort of support.

Good luck!

 

Bellows - yes the new Bilstein HD's came with them

Does anyone have a picture of this nut securing the shock insert?

• Remove the strut nut while the lower ball joint is still connected to the car. You will thank yourself later. Removing it while the strut is outside the car is quite a bit more difficult. - I have an impact gun but yes I will remove as suggested.


• Remove your caliper and secure it to the sway bar that you've disconnected. Otherwise, your brake lines can limit movement of your strut, and I thought that while leaving it connected, the lines were put under too much tension than I was comfortable with.


• Remove the Tie-rod end from the knuckle. This will give you more room to maneuver. you may want to leave it connected while you remove the strut nut. - Everything is getting removed, we have new replacements for everything


• Tape up your outer fender. It is very easy to dent/chip the paint when manhandling the strut insert out of the wheel well. - Good tip


• (optional) Remove the strut rod. I found it made removal of the strut very easy. Otherwise, you may need extra force to remove the strut. However, it is not significantly more difficult to do so with the strut rod still connected. - We will have to anyway since we have new bushings that need to be pressed in.


• (optional) remove your brake rotor to reduce the weight you have to deal with. Besides, your brake caliper is off already! Note* try not to bend the dust shield as you rest the lower control arm on some sort of support. - Good tip.

 

Sorry its not a better resolution, but a quick google found this. Its the little gold thing beside the strut insert. You might be able to find better pictures...

 

is that the star-shaped nut I've seen in some other DIY's?

 

like this

 

Your new struts should have a new gland nut to fit them. Its been awhile since I did a normal suspension, so I don't really remember. The koni racing ones I got had new gland nuts for them.

you got the tool for that nut right? IPD has them.


Edit:// if you are doing bilsteins, then they should have new nuts. The shaft Diameters are larger as they are reversed inserts.

 

No the Bilsteins didn't come with any nut that looks similar to the one in the pic. Just a regular nut like for a normal bolt.

And no I didn't get the gland nut tool, ****. Is it a must have?

 

That would be it. And no, its not necessary to have a tool to remove the nut. BUT, and it's a big one, when I removed the gland nut using a pipe wrench and a punch, it was pretty much unusable afterwards. My Boge struts came with new nuts, so that wasn't an issue for me.

 

The bilstein's should have a new gland nut. It might be under the rubber boot. they have to come with one.

And as stated above, the tool is not really needed, but makes life easier.

 

Yup it's under the boot. Sweet thanks guys!

 

Got everything installed and was able to find a shop to do an alignment today. Everything went fairly smooth with no real issues. The only issues if you could call it that are with the IPD lower sport springs and their front poly sway bar kit.

The springs sit lower in the back than the front. Kinda looks odd

Second was the IPD poly sway bar kit. The actual poly sway bar bushings were a larger diameter than the stock volvo rubber. Idk if the IPD kit is for the 940 turbo model if that model has a larger sway bar or not idk. When I ordered the kit the IPD website said it would fit my sons base 940. I will call tomorrow....

Again that's for everyone's help and input.
Dom

 

the sportier 7/9's did have thicker sway bars. actually, I thought IPD's poly kit was for their own extra-heavy sway bar. the IPD front should be matched with an IPD rear antisway, and sedan vs wagon get different ones.

 

yeah looking at the IPD site, I now see the kit is just for their sway bar. Completely my fault, I guess I could take it off and sell it? Does anyone make poly for the stock sway bar or the diameter of the stock bar?

Thanks
Dom

 

I thought IPD had a poly set for the stock front bar.... Maybe it was a 240 it was for.


But yeah, besides that...Check with superpro.... they might. Or whiteline.


Otherwise, you are stuck with regular mounts, unless you go to the larger bars.

 

frankly, i'd stick with Volvo OE bushings, unless you're building a track day car.

 

Hadn't decided what to do about the sway bar bushings, but here are a couple pics from the process. Thanks for all the input.