Hi-

Yesterday I drove an '88 240 from LA to San Francisco. It was a very hot day and the temp gauge periodically came within a couple of needle widths from the red zone, then drifted back to the 9 o'clock position. Later while climbing the steep grade of a mountain pass, the needle entered the red zone for about three minutes. NO smoke or noises or anything like that. I crested the hill and it moved back into the black area. I suppose I need to check my radiator for blockage, or something. Anyway, the car drove fine for the remaining hours of the journey. My question is: Could those couple of minutes of driving in the red zone have damaged the engine? If so, how would I know? I love my car and don't wish to abuse it. But I would like to know, as I think many others would like to know - what are the limits these cars can handle and still live a long life. Thanks very much.

 

We replace 2-3 engines a month at the shop driven by people just like you. I don't mean to sound as if I'm being hard on you but you need to get a clue as to what a temperature gauge means. Ever give a thought to why that particular portion of the gauge is RED?
I really don't know what more manufacturers can do. They expect the operator to have a basic concept, I guess. So...here's a few tips you should have learned from your Dad by the time you were 14.
1. Know your car and the normal readings for your car.
2. When your car temp gauge starts climbing, slow down and see if it drops.
3. If it doesn't drop, turn off the a/c.
4. Still doesn't drop? Turn on the heater to hot and blower full blast. This lets the heater core act as an extra radiator to dissipate heat.
5. Never, never let the temp go into the red...doing so is courting disaster.
Have you damaged your engine? Who knows. The older the engine, the more likely. The cylinder head is aluminum,the engine block is cast iron.High school chemistry tells us different compounds expand and contract at different rates. And here we have a big hunk of aluminum bolted to a bigger hunk of cast iron. With a slice of aging head gasket in between. What you did is precisely what happens to cause blown head gaskets, warped cylinder heads, gallded cylinders and hydro locked motors. If any of that sounds serious, it is. For a 20 year old Volvo it usually means an ignominious death at the junk yard. At the very least you have shortened the engine's effective life.
Your radiator is probably no good, clogged. There are lots of ways to troubleshoot the cooling system but frankly, if you don't understand the purpose of, and the proper response to, a temperature gauge I suspect sharing those tips with you would be ineffective. If you think I'm being harsh...think again. The B2x and B23x motors are some of the stoutest ever made. But...they are getting old now. Oil levels and cooling systems are crucial. You cannot continue to abuse your Brick and expect it to survive.

 

Is this a compensator board problem?

 

It would be great if it were that simple...and of course, there is the off chance it is. Generally, at least in my experience, when the board goes out it has no bearing on the load on the motor. His description of how he was driving, how the needle rose and dropped would seem to describe exactly how an air flow restriction or coolant blockage shows on temp. More load, more heat...less load, less heat. Regardless....when the temp gauge heads for the red the prudent thing to do is pull off asap, leave the motor running and hose the radiator off to get the temps down.

 

Soooo..... Swift..... let me get this straight, you're saying it's a bad thing to let the needle go into the red?

 

Nah...not at all...what gave you that impression?