OK so the Volvo is still starting right up but then it dies a few seconds later, started looking at the temp sensor and found that it has a single prong spade connector on it? Every replacement one that I have looked at has two prongs on it and the plug has two prongs and two wires on it. My connector only has one wire on it? Is it possible that they replaced it? And if so where did the second wire go
and what does it do?

 

Are you sure you are looking at the Temp. Sensor and not the Temp. Gauge sensor?

 

OK so now I found the temp sensor, the listing at the part store did not show any single prong ones so we kept looking and looking and lo and behold at the bottom of the list there was a single prong one. Book says the range should be between 2900to 2100 when cold and 250 to 300 when warm. When ours is cold it is only reading 1300. Do you think this would be enough to make the car stall out based on the fact it is not getting enough fuel?

 

there are two separate sensors. the 1 pin sensor is for the dashboard gauge, the 2 pin sensor is for the ECU and ICU

 

Where is the two pin one located? See the knocks sensor beside the one ping one but not sure where the other one is located

 

Happy holidays! The temp sensor is nestled just under the throttle body towards the rear! On driver side. Towards the rear near firewall.
keep looking its buried under there! Good luck

 

It's under the third intake manifold runner, it's hard to see. Sometimes it's easier to take off the manifold to get to it...

 

yeah, between the idle air controller, the EGR valve, and the oil trap plumbing, its really hard to get to.

 

Found it 👍🏿👍🏿 Thanx for the help. It’s reading 5300 ohms? The high is supposed to be 2100-2900. Thinking it’s the problem. Thoughts?

 

the 2 pin sensor is two separate sensors, both go to ground. so you measure the ohms from the metal body to either pin, NOT between the two pins. one sensor is used by the ICU, and the other by the ECU.

 

Cool, thanks for the help. Excited to measure it the right way tomorrow. 😀👍🏿👍🏿🙏🏽

 

if you got 5300 measuring from pin to pin, 5300/2 == 2650 ohms is the resitance of each half.

 

Well I just checked the old one and I got 3500 on each side. I checked the new one and I got 2600 on each side. Do you think that the extra resistance in the old one could be sending too much fuel/air to the engine and making it stall out? Want to know what you guys think before I swap it out. Like I said this is my first Volvo so don’t know how finicky these things are as far as the computers/electronic circuits. Thanks for all/any of the help so far. Loving this for forum👍🏿👍🏿

 

were they at the exact same temperature when you measured?

per one reference I looked up...

• 32F (0C)-- about 6000 ohms within a range of +/- 10%
• 68F(20C) -- about 2300 ohms
• 104F(40C) -- about 1300 ohms
• 140F(60C) -- about 600 ohms
• 176F(80C) -- about 300 ohms
• 212F -- about 190 ohms

 

Yes, they were very close in temperature. I was getting kind of frustrated by the whole temp sensor so I decided to pull off throttlebody and clean it. It was very dirty. Also cleaned the hose going from the MAF to the throttlebody. Found seven reps in the boot! Clean them up and patch them all put it back together, it is running better but still not great. More updates to come

 

my experiences with EFI systems in general, any time you pull the thottle body, you should replace the gasket.

 

wait, holes in the rubber boots in the air path? any pinholes will raise total havoc on your low RPM running, and I doubt any repairs will be successful, I would replace those torn/split boots. I'd look up the PN's but you havent' said what year/model car you have...