Yeah, rotors are nasty, now that I see a better pic. And I think you are right, that is the exhaust clamp...
You can spray any lubricant, it's only a temporary test, the bearing is obviously shot.

 

that pad doesn't look like it was covering the whole rotor surface. I generally find when the rotor is worn, there's only about 1-2mm on the outside and 3-5mm on the inside that aren't worn.

 

re: that center bearing, I suspect new bearing, and all new rubber bits at a minimum. if I remember, tomorrow I'll try and dig up the PN's to go with that diagram I posted earlier.

 

Hey pierce. Thanks in advance for the PNs. RE: pads, are you saying I shouldn't have ordered duplicates of the ones I had? Are there other, larger pads that would fit my (non-ABS) Girling calipers?

 

As a Senior member on this forum this has turned into the lev pierce and Markthomas 3 stooges Prank show!!!!

They have too much knowledge to continue getting spammed by this ovious clown!!! Im not sure if you guys are 60 plus years old but a younger guys would recognize this madness with todays techniques!!!

Lets stopvthis fool or just make a damn phonecall????

Goldenblock.....

 

ok, part numbers for the center bearing bits fgor drive shaft type 03...

1) part #4, 'ring', 1340502
2) part #3, 'ball bearing', 183265 (note: 45x75x16)
3) part #5, 'ring', 1340647
4) part #6, 'bellows, 3549771
5) part #2, 'bearing carrier', 1340501

eeew, 1990 740 also lists a drive shaft type 13, which has some different parts. from the center of the bearing carrier to the center of the U joint, type 03 is 106 mm, while type 13 is 208mm... above numbers are type 03, here's type 13:

1) part #4, 1340906
2) part #3, 181549
3) part #5, 1340907
4) part #6, 'sealing sleeve', 1340302
5) part #2, 1209820


great fun.

 

Hey guys. Pads and rotors are finally here. Pads came with this packet of “synthetic brake component lubricant.” The instructions read: “Apply to all moving hardware components. Apply to all hardware to pad contact surfaces before installing.” I don’t get it. Bad translation from German? Would this take the place of the BrāKleen I bought? Am I just suffering from my usual ignorance? Please help. PS. Was planning on cleaning some of the rust off the brake line fittings, unless you would recommend leaving them alone (as I am not currently planning to replace the brake lines, though I am planning to change the brake fluid)?...

 

Use the brake cleaner to wipe clean the new rotors' surfaces.
This stuff in the package must be for applying to the back of the pads where they touch the caliper. It's to prevent brake squeal.
I wouldn't worry about surface rust on this car's brake fittings.

 

they mean the metal backing of the pads, all places where it contacts stuff, including the slider pins and such. NOT on the pad or rotor braking surfaces!

 

Cool, thanks again guys, looking forward to tomorrow

 

do make sure you can loosen all 4 caliber's bleeding screws.

i hate to think what the inside bore of the calibers must look like.

 

Is the stuff in the package GREASE or a rubberized substance? If it's grease put it on the slider pins, if it's rubberized put it on the BACK of the pads where they make contact with the caliper on both sides. Never seen this sold with pads before and it's unclear!
You will have to compress the pistons of the caliper to make room for the new, thicker pads.

 

Hey lev, thanks for that vid. I bought this thing at Walmart last week, I guess it’s a kind of reverse C clamp, “squeezing outward” instead of “squeezing inward”?



Speaking of the vid, any idea what the “manufacturer’s specifications” (as Barbour says) for retightening my bleeder screws are? (Also, in view of the fact that these appear to be non-ABS brakes, would the old “pedal-pump-it-all-out” method work here for changing out fluid?)





Also wanted to confirm that I do in fact need to remove these 10mm bolts to get caliper mounts off to get old rotors off before I start literally hammering (and B’Lasting) away at the rust there...



RE: weird new lubricant that came with Bosch pads, seems more slippery/oily than rubbery...but I am not sure... it actually doesn't seem like something that would flow around the slider pins like a motor oil would...seems more like petroleum jelly but a little more globular/elastic...





Sorry for the photo-bombing, grateful as usual for the walk-through...

UPDATE: Rust kicked my a** today. Bleeder screws frozen. Caliper-mount bolts frozen. Left front slider pins frozen. Hopefully overnight B'Laster soak will help. This could be a long fight though. And the cold returns in a few days.

 

Those caliper bolts have to come off to get the rotors off.
Bleeder screws have to be opened up for bleeding if nothing else.
Bleeding can be done the old way by pumping the pedal.
Bleeding screws should be tightened but not too much, use common sense, no torque specs needed, just snug them.
The included stuff appears to be some type of lubricant, use it on the pins, not on the pads. I use some red gummy goop on the back of the pads to avoid squealing, called "anti squeal" or something like that.
The tool you bought is not really necessary, that video shows you. I use big channel locks, or a prying type bar to squeeze the pistons back.
Hopefully the bleed screws come off or you'll need new calipers but so far you have overcome some nasty looking rust so let's see.
Those Allen head bolts holding the bracket are quite tight even with no rust, use a 1/2" bar to get them off--the Allens are hard to strip if inserted all the way but make sure they are clean so the bit goes in all the way!

 

Hey
Broke through the rust on all four bleeder screws.
Haven't been able to budge any of the Allen-head bolts yet. Soaking them now in my patent-pending B'Laster Wraps, lol. They're how I finally broke through with the fuel filter so, as you say, we'll see.
PS. What is a 1/2" bar? Does that mean the bit I'm inserting into the caliper-mount bolts should be 1/2" and not 10mm? (My 10mm bit did seem a good snug fit, and drops in all the way...)

 

I mean using the 1/2" drive breaker bar (or 1/2" ratchet) vs 3/8" drive ratchet that you are using now--you get more leverage with a longer handle tool. Of course you'd have to use 1/2" adapter between the breaker bar and the 3/8" Allen bit. I often have to use 1/2" on those allens so I know they are quite tight even if not rusty.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...b94599c39c41f4

 

careful using a 1/2 breaker bar with 3/8 bits, you can break the bits pretty easily. you CAN get 1/2" drive hex metric bits, like
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...-pc-67895.html

 

Cool tips guys, thanks, headed to my local Harbor Freight tomorrow...

 

Wow. Rust ate my whole day. And it's not even all cleaned up yet. But I've broken through everywhere. Rotors were stuck on good. Those slider pins on the left front caliper-mount were stuck REAL good. One of them came out looking pretty ugly, but it came out, and with about twenty B'Laster plunge-scrubs of their receptacles they're both sliding freely in and out all the way, and hopefully after that new-fangled lubricant is applied they'll never get stuck like that again.
The breaker bar was critical in breaking through with the slider pins as well as with the Allen-head bolts. Ended up getting a 17" bar with a 3/8" drive: I suspected I wouldn't have room inside the wheel well to swing a 25" bar and I was right; there also weren't any 1/2" hex bit sets at my local Harbor Freight and it did seem better not to have an adapter mediating the force I was expecting to have to apply. Not as much leverage with the shorter length (the right hand Allens were amazingly stubborn), but it did the trick.
Good thing that big Nor'easter is gonna take an extra day to get here...

 

I think the right front brake is done. Bleeder screws re-tightened snug (brake fluid seemed to be bleeding freely during piston compression... btw, is pedal-pumping old fluid out something that can be done with calipers on?). Allen bolts tightened a little past snug using breaker bar. Rotor seemed slightly immobilized by pads once they were in place, but was easily spin-able once tire was back on, just checking that that’s normal (although it sounds like there's a tiny stone or something rattling around in there somewhere when I spin the rotor...a fragment of rusted metal? how??). Also checking that it’s ok that the top slider pin seems just a little less compressed than the bottom slider pin.



Wish these things had come with a label that said REMOVE THESE FIRST. (I’m presuming that they aren’t to remain on the pads from how easily pads dropped into place when they came off and how nothing was right until they did... let me know though...)