Hi Fellow Brick Lovers,

We have a "fleet" of 740s (5 to be exact[we also have had 760s and 900s -just what has been available] ), and run our business using them. They all have varying degrees of IPD modifications, but stock(ish) engines and ride heights. We do light interior remodeling for people with disabilities and aging in place and these workhorses beat any pickup truck hands down - reliability, mileage, looks, maintenance, ... . We are in the middle of an expansion and will be buying more of the beasts, but will also need to be doing some towing with heavier loads or fencing type materials.

I need to hear about any towing experience and advice anyone has had with 700 and 900 series bricks. We love these cars, our customers all know we are the guys that drive the old Volvos and it is part of our image - they speak safety and that is our message. Plus that, driving 300 miles to a jobsite is an absolute pleasure in one of these rides vs a pickup.

Thanks for your help.

Drew

 

Well, the wagons come stock with heavier springs to offset the tongue weight. I presume since you mention IPD that perhaps springs have been considered. Since you're using them as trucks are they all wagons? Can't imagine doing reno/resto working out of a sedan...here's a link to a discussion on towing and a pic of the only thing I have really towed w/ my 740...
https://volvoforums.com/forum/showth...ghlight=towing

 

Swiftjustice44 great picture, and great snark in your remarks about mountains in NC. I am in Utah, so our mountains are real.

They are all wagons and make lots of sense. We could do the traditional pickup route, but the costs of doing it this way provides me with a better lifestyle than high vehicle payments would. Plus, it is just unique - all of our crew wear slacks and short sleeve oxfords too - and people love it.

 

You must run large transmission coolers. I say large because they're not much more expensive than smaller ones.
Also, the customer must understand that transmission service period (flush and filter change) should be halved, as is common practice with severe duty automatic transmission vehicles. I would also install an inline filter in the transmission cooler line and specify it is changed at transmission service interval.
Or, they can go with synthetic transmission fluid, and change it at the correct service interval.
I would also seriously consider specifying electric brakes on trailers and fitting a brake controller in the vehicles. If towing daily, it will materially improve vehicle pad and rotor wear. The costs will be recouped in six months if high mileage is travelled with a trailer on brake components alone.

 

+1 to get trailer brakes. It's a liability. I posted a picture from the my owners manual in the thread that swiftjustice provided a link to. It's a picture of the page that gives the specs for towing for my '89 740 turbo wagon, if that is of any interest.

I live in Utah right now to go to school. I'll have to keep an eye out for your fleet.

 

We pulled a tent trailer with ours for a few years with no problems. Drove the two from BC Canada to Manitoba and back as well as BC to Orgegon and back. Those were some of the longer trips.

Russ

 

indeed. putting IPD or FCP Groton's overload springs in the back of a non-IRS car is *HIGHLY* recommended for towing. I wouldn't tow at all with an IRS car.

the 740/940 can tow 3500 lbs with about 150 lbs tongue weight. any trailer of about 2000 lbs or more definately should have good working trailer brakes. a light 1200 lb gross trailer, you can get away with no brakes. what they all said about transmission coolers and halving service/inspection intervals is also very good advice. go slow, take it easy, and don't use overdrive AT ALL.

I've towed light trailers, like small sailboats, significant distances in a 240 with OL springs in back, didn't even know the trailer was there. I've towed a 2000 lb tent trailer across down, it was fine. after I've fixed up my 745T, I'll likely be towing that same tent trailer a few 100 miles a couple times a year, but it needs a trailer-brake service first.

oh. the Draw-Tite hitches for the RWD volvos work great. they bolt right on with minimum effort. DO pay attention to the bolt torque, its something like 75 ft-lbs, you need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and 6-pt sockets to do this, not a 3/8" drive or 12-pt sockets.

 

I just made a trip in which I towed a 5x8 u-haul trailer full of everything I own from coastal Maine to Montana. The weather was a nightmare, and the hours long but I do not regret saddling up with my 850 which has more than 250k. What a great car.

 

It's great to hear the car held up...but dude...Maine to Montana with everything you own? In the dead of winter? You do know there are portions of the USA that aren't covered with permafrost, right?

 

Swift, do my eyes deceive me, is that the VOBRA, towing a harrow?

Fred

 

Well, yeah...that's just how we roll in Texas!