Turns off after an hour of driving fwy

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Old 01-07-2010, 08:28 PM
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Default Turns off after an hour of driving fwy

I travel 80 miles to and from work daily. When I arrive home I exit to the left. The car won't stay idle and dies on me. I put it in park and it starts normal but if I turn any direction it dies on me.

86 240 wagon GL
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:08 AM
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Sounds like a bad electrical connection. Check the 25-amp fuse on the left fender. That fuse holder should be clean and tight. Also check the center coil wire. Do you have a bunch of keys dangling in the ignition slot?
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:27 PM
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The fuse is ok ....and the center coil wire? ignition coil? I only got three keys on my key chain. My ignition coil is almost considered a fossil now. I should replace the thing.

thanks BG
 
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:06 PM
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Yep, the center wire for the ignition coil. One time on a trip my car would cut out on the freeway. Then start going again. The next morning it would turn over but not start. I was on the road so I had it towed to a dealer and he discovered the center ignition wire on the coil was loose.
 
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:37 AM
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Did he tighten the coil or just replaced the whole thing?

Thanks again...
 
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:53 AM
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I dunno what he did. I was drinking coffee in the customer lounge and the car was under warranty. So I didn't much care. I'm guessing the tech crimped the terminal of the coil wire slightly, for a better connection, and stuck it back on the coil with a dab of dielectric grease. It fixed it permanently.

Generally, ignition coils last forever.
 
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Old 01-10-2010, 11:07 AM
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That is what I hear.....coils last longer than marriage.....I will replace it with a yard one....from a 740....thanks...
 
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:15 PM
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My 81 240 was doing something similar after replacing the power steering pump belt, the coil wire was attached to the power steering hose with a couple of zip ties and the pump would move slightly when turning thanks to worn out mount bushings under the power steering pump (replaced) and removed zip ties problem solved. I guess the previous owners secured it fearing it would make contact on the block somewhere as the coil wire is really long on mine.
 
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:27 PM
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One thing I forgot to add would be to check the coil right after it starts back up if it's too hot to keep your finger on then it's insulation is going (I have worked with alot of old school domestic cars and see this alot) also your ignition module could be heating up and cutting out on you thats a good salvage yard part to test with as a new replacement would be pretty costly
 
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Old 01-11-2010, 10:27 AM
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I think we will go with the power steering belt...you know the ignition module connection has this grease all over the little prongs...too much I would say...

thanks again
 
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Old 01-11-2010, 03:33 PM
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I had 850 turbo fuel injectors on....now I switched back to the original ones and the problem became worst......I have to rev the engine as it turns on....it cranks an turns on every time, but I have to rev the thing for a few seconds then it will stay on....until I hit a stop light and the hissing coming from inside the dash got louder....some times when I hit the brake it tends to die......
 
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Old 01-11-2010, 05:26 PM
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Default cutoff timer

Maybe somebody put a cutoff timer into the ignition system? More seriously, maybe you should look at the idle control valve?
 
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:27 PM
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Yes, the idle control valve...that was my next thing....
I notice that my power steering belt is way loose...I did some work and had to loosen the belt a bit but could not re tension it back fully....any who....I keep hearing the hissing coming from the dash....when I am at a stop light and go or slow down.
 
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:35 PM
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This sounds like a vacuum leak from under the dash. Vacuum leaks will trash your idle. I don't know about Volvos but My Saab and most vehicles run the heating system with a series of vacuum operated valves. I bet one of your vacuum hoses came off, cracked or what ever. Get in there and poke around. Use a length of hose put up to your ear and dig around to find the source where the hissing sound is coming from. Bet the cold start system adds enough extra gas to make up for the extra air coming in from the vacuum leak which is why it takes a while before its an issue.

Good luck,

M
 

Last edited by dobrosailor; 01-12-2010 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:00 PM
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My 81 had a hissing sound coming from what I thought was the dash turns out the vacuum line coming from the vacuum advance on the distributor then to a T fitting finally connecting to the back of the throttle body, it was dry rotted and completely broken off on the throttle body side. I replaced it and it had a higher idle and alot more power when accelerating
 
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:20 PM
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There is a vacuum check valve from the intake manifold connected to a small vacuum hose leading through the firewall. It's white/black with the white side toward the manifold. If that valve leaks your vacuum actuated HVAC motors will do strange things. With high vacuum, like cruising down the highway, everything may be fine. But under acceleration the HVAC motors may switch to defrost instead of floor vent. And then back to floor vent once you get up to speed.
 
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:54 PM
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Yeah it was the check valve atop of my intake...I go a half dozen from the junk yard yesterday..........a buck each.....no more hissing. My stalling kind of stopped but happens once in a while when I start to slow down for a stop....usually 5 to 10mph I guess.
 
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