Valve asjustment disks

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Old 06-12-2014, 05:10 PM
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Default Valve asjustment disks

Yo - In my VOlvo manual it says I need these disks to reset the valves. Does anyone know where I can get these? And what their technical name is? And is this like doable without the specialized tools repair manuals say one needs?
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:16 PM
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Get them at the dealer or IPD... No special tools needed except a micrometer with .01 mm accuracy--digital kind.
 
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Old 06-13-2014, 09:55 AM
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Call em "Shims"
 
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Old 06-13-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dagaan
Yo - In my VOlvo manual it says I need these disks to reset the valves. Does anyone know where I can get these? And what their technical name is? And is this like doable without the specialized tools repair manuals say one needs?
Thanks, Dagaan
Before you need to order shims you need to measure all of the valve clearances. It's a simple procedure and all you need is a set of feeler gauges and a micrometer. Oh you need to know to add and subtract. Usually the intake valves are OK but the exhaust valves tend to tighten up.
 
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Old 06-15-2014, 03:32 PM
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Default Thanks everyone!

Thanks everyone!Thanks everyone!
 
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Old 06-17-2014, 12:51 AM
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Hey there, I just started a thread about this over at TB: 240 B230 tappet and shim tools - Turbobricks Forums

This seems like a good place to get exactly what you want regarding shims (adjusting washers):
Cylinder head B230F. Fits: 1990 Volvo 240 4DRS S.R 2.3l Fuel Injected | VOLVO OEM PARTS

Dealer in my area wanted $18/shim.
 
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:00 AM
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$7 each isn't much better, yeow. or $470 for the kit with a bunch of all of them, double yeow.
 
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Old 06-17-2014, 07:50 AM
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Try the kit at IPD. It has a $40 rental charge although they charge you $225 and refund the balance when you return it. I believe they charge for the shims you use but I don't see the amount in the description. The kit can be found here:

Valve Shim Kit
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 09:58 AM
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Usually you only need one or two shims... Measure the things, figure what you need, buy them, put them in...

Do you even need a valve adjustment? It's rarely necessary.
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:12 PM
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Thanks Pierce! Do you have a place where I can get single shims for the $7 a piece!
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply Lev. I don't actually know I need to replace any shims but I hear what sounds like valve knock and it's an '86 but I'm a-gonna check before I do anything.
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:15 PM
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Thanks!
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:26 PM
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Thanks for the link!
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:52 PM
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mail ordering individual shims will be an exercise in frustration.

you need to take off the valve cover, use the correct sort of feeler gauge to check the clearance of each valve. any that are off, you take out the old shim, measure it with a micrometer, then take the difference between the measured value and the correct value, and add/subtract that from the existing shim to find out what the correct shim is. then you need to order those specific shims, and wait a week or more to recieve them before you can complete the job.

"renting" the kit from IPD makes much more sense. you have every possible shim on hand, THEN you take your engine part, measure, tweak things til its right, then ship them back their shim kit to get the refund on the bulk of the 'price'.

or, quite frankly, shimming is something done SO rarely on these motors, I'd be highly inclined to bring it to a indie repair shop that specializes in older Volvos, and let them do the job, they are presumably experienced at it.

our 1987 240 has over 400K miles on it and has never been touched.
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 06:02 PM
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The way to go about it is: take off the valve cover and measure the valve clearances, cold. Check the specs. The ones that are off, take out the shims, measure them, figure out what size you need, and buy just those--no need to have every shim on hand! As I posted earlier, chances are only one or two will be off... So you'll need just a couple of shims. Just have a good digital micrometer. The way I take the shims out without the special tool is I loosen the cam, then re-torque it when finished. Be careful if you do this, those bolts holding the cam down take little torque, don't overtighten!
 
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