Volvo 240 Braking Sound

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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 10:08 PM
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Default Volvo 240 Braking Sound

Hey everyone, I'm a first time 240 owner (and first time car owner as well, so forgive me if I sound clueless). Lately I've noticed a loud groaning sound whenever I brake my 1992 240 DL. Usually it happens if I'm braking slowly.

Along with this sometimes comes a spinning metal scraping sound from one of the wheels as well. This scraping occurs both when I slow down to brake and when I begin to accelerate, however it occurs much less than the groaning braking noise.

I took off my front tires today and the pads seem to be in OK shape as far as I can tell. I've attached some photos if someone can take a look and confirm this.

I did not get a chance to check the rear brakes but I think that's where the groan at least is coming from.

I just wanted to know if anyone can tell me if this sounds like a pad issue, or something different with my rotor or caliper. Also, If someone can recommend parts/a place to get them, that would be great. Thanks!
 
Attached Thumbnails Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7063.jpg   Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7076.jpg   Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7064.jpg  
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 07:22 AM
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What do the rotors look like.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jagtoes
What do the rotors look like.
Here are pics of the rotor, this isnt the one the making the scraping sound but it looks very similar. I can post pics of the one making noise in a few days.
 
Attached Thumbnails Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7068.jpg   Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7061.jpg  

Last edited by jackasquires; Mar 17, 2016 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:31 PM
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if a caliber is 'hanging up' and not fully retracting, the pads can make scraping noises. this usually accelerates wear on one pad

i'd probably jack up the wheel you suspect, and spin it by hand while feeling and listening for the source of the noise.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by pierce
if a caliber is 'hanging up' and not fully retracting, the pads can make scraping noises. this usually accelerates wear on one pad

i'd probably jack up the wheel you suspect, and spin it by hand while feeling and listening for the source of the noise.
Today I replaced all my rear pads. Each had about 30% left except for the outer rear right pad. This is the one that was causing the scraping noise and has now left tons of deep scratches on the outside of that rotor. It looks like I'll need to replace the rotor now but I'm worried my problem isn't fixed.

As of now I'm having no noise issues, but considering just one pad was worn down to metal I'm worried the caliper may have an issue. When I was taking out the old pads and pushing in the caliper pistons, some leakage occurred. Is this normal? this didn't occur on the other rear caliper. Could I possibly have issues with brake fluid? I'm definitely going to order a new rotor, but I don't want to buy the caliper yet until I know that's what I need. Any suggestions?
 
Attached Thumbnails Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7120.jpg   Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7116.jpg   Volvo 240 Braking Sound-img_7089.jpg  
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 02:09 AM
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Leakage, from where? There shouldn't be any! But you seem to have a bad (frozen) caliper that should be sorted.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lev
Leakage, from where? There shouldn't be any! But you seem to have a bad (frozen) caliper that should be sorted.
The leakage is coming from the caliper pistons. Do i need to get a whole new caliper or can I fix it somehow?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 09:32 AM
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You can rebuild it, buy new, buy used, etc. I wouldn't rebuild it myself, the cost of the kit is as much as getting a whole different caliper. Calipers are cheap for these cars.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jackasquires
Today I replaced all my rear pads. Each had about 30% left except for the outer rear right pad. This is the one that was causing the scraping noise and has now left tons of deep scratches on the outside of that rotor. It looks like I'll need to replace the rotor now but I'm worried my problem isn't fixed.

As of now I'm having no noise issues, but considering just one pad was worn down to metal I'm worried the caliper may have an issue. When I was taking out the old pads and pushing in the caliper pistons, some leakage occurred. Is this normal? this didn't occur on the other rear caliper. Could I possibly have issues with brake fluid? I'm definitely going to order a new rotor, but I don't want to buy the caliper yet until I know that's what I need. Any suggestions?

yeah thats really bad
but its easy to fix

you need the following:

a new set of rotors
new brake pads (never replace rotors with used brake pads on them)
a set of calipers or rebuild kits
about 1 liters of brake fluid Dot4 or type 200

all found here

Product Search: BRAKES
 
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Old Mar 24, 2016 | 08:15 PM
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1 caliper, 1 turned rotor, 1 set of pads, enough brake fluid, but that's just me... Cheap and easy.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lev
1 caliper, 1 turned rotor, 1 set of pads, enough brake fluid, but that's just me... Cheap and easy.
What happens when the difference in pressure between the two sides sends you into a spiraling death...spiral? maybe I am paranoid
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 10:24 AM
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fcp euro have some pretty good deals on rebuilt calipers. rockauto as well
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 11:20 AM
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Nichals, why would you have a "difference in pressure"? The old caliper is presumed (tested) to be up to its job, one rotor will be a little thinner (should be within specs). And we are talking about rear brakes here, right? About 80% of the load is carried by the front brakes, if it was the front I'd do more...

Some years back I ran into a guy, figuratively, not literally, since we are talking about brakes, in a late '80s 740 wagon (no ABS) who was missing the entire front caliper and driving the thing around! Now, THAT, even I wouldn't do, and can't figure out how he managed to have any stopping power, but somehow he did!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2016 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lev
Nichals, why would you have a "difference in pressure"? The old caliper is presumed (tested) to be up to its job, one rotor will be a little thinner (should be within specs). And we are talking about rear brakes here, right? About 80% of the load is carried by the front brakes, if it was the front I'd do more...

Some years back I ran into a guy, figuratively, not literally, since we are talking about brakes, in a late '80s 740 wagon (no ABS) who was missing the entire front caliper and driving the thing around! Now, THAT, even I wouldn't do, and can't figure out how he managed to have any stopping power, but somehow he did!

That's crazy!
So I am paranoid then, but at the same time there are apoplectic driving around with essentially 1 brake

Personally I'm still going to replace in pairs but hey, glad to hear that no deathy spirals of doom...cool!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Nichals
yeah thats really bad
but its easy to fix

you need the following:

a new set of rotors
new brake pads (never replace rotors with used brake pads on them)
a set of calipers or rebuild kits
about 1 liters of brake fluid Dot4 or type 200

all found here

Product Search: BRAKES
I just got a new rotor and brake fluid, pads are already installed. I will be getting the caliper in a few days. Thanks for the help. Do I need to bleed the brakes when replacing any of this?
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 05:58 PM
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Yes. Since you are at it, replace the brake fluid! Euro car makers recommend new brake fluid every two years--not that anyone heeds it...
 
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lev
Yes. Since you are at it, replace the brake fluid! Euro car makers recommend new brake fluid every two years--not that anyone heeds it...
Should I bleed them before or after I replace the rotors and caliper?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jackasquires
Should I bleed them before or after I replace the rotors and caliper?
Bleed them after you have introduced air into the system...which would be after you've changed the caliper.

Try to keep the master cylinder above the minimum mark...don't let it run dry.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 09:50 PM
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Hey everyone, So today I replaced the Right Rear Caliper, as well as the Left Rear rotor and then bled all brakes. Now the car is braking really well although I'm getting a metal spinning/scraping sound on the Right Rear wheel.

The sound will happen when at lower speeds and both acceleration and slowing down. I wasn't having any trouble with this when I simply had the new Right Rear Rotor.

So all I replaced on that wheel was the caliper and clips/pins that hold in the pads. The pins are a bit bigger than the previous ones and its possible they are hitting the rotor or it's the caliper making some type of contact with the rotor.

I'm going to take off the wheel tomorrow and have a look, but if there is anyone who has some tips or has had a similar experience to this when replacing a caliper I'd love to get some help.

Also, is there any lubricant or grease that I need to apply to anything when replacing the caliper?

Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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The pads should be the only surfaces in contact with the rotor, and we can't see that from here... The pins, did they come with the new caliper? You can reuse the old ones if there is a question but they should all be the same size, standard...

Have you checked the emergency brake shoes? They may be dragging, causing the noise.

I use some rubberized goop on the back of the pads to prevent brake squeal, it's not really a lubricant.
 
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