Hey guys I have a 1990 240dl it keeps dying on me unexpectadly. About a month ago I noticed that I was pushing on the gas while driving but it didn't do anything as if no gas was getting to the engine but it perked back up didn't do it agian. Little before this happen my battery got ran completely dead do to the glove box light never turning off. After that the car starting dying completely same issue push on the gas nothing happens and it dies all dash lights came on. At first it would start back up pretty quickly and it wouldn't die anymore. Over time It took longer and longer to start back up. Also noticed that after it starts again a belt squeaking noise at start up. Eventually it got to the point that the battery died. So I got the battery replaced because it would not hold a charge. We checked the alternator and it was fine. I thought the problem was fixed ran great last couple days. Today it did it again just died no warning. Started back up. Checked the alternator again still fine. People at autozone said it sounds electrical and something is drawing power from the engine. I am at a lost and need some help. ANY IDEAS???

 

What do you mean by "died"? Did it sputter or did it totally shutdown like someone hit an off switch?

possibly a bad relay? (fuel pump or radio/auxiliary suppression relay)

 

I guess your talking about the battery, so I went on vacation and my battery got completely drained. After this happen the stalling of the car happened. The battery quit holding a charge. So I got it replaced which seemed to fix it for a couple of days. Today it died 5 times all random times and speeds. It just dies no warning other than I am pushing on the gas and its not accelerating the engine. Then all dash lights come on. I am driving when it happens so I am not sure about sputtering but its almost like when a idle is to low on car. except I know its not that.

 

Have you tested the alternator? Even if the alternator isn't bad, I had a 240 that was doing almost the exact same thing and I was stumped, because the alternator tested good, but I found out that the alternator ground wire had barely slipped out of the connector unit where it grounds to the engine body.

 

have you checked for any OBD codes? not all of them light the 'check engine light' on the dash. See Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes (the 240's with LH2.4 have the same basic engine as the 7xx/9xx of those FAQs).

 

Does the car sputter then die or turn off like a light switch? If sputters you have a fuel problem if just dies like someone flipped a light switch off it's electrical. #1 check for any stored codes just because the check engine light is not on does not mean there aren't codes. Sometimes the check engine light bulb is burnt out. #2 check up by your battery. On the positive side is there smaller wire connected along with the main battery cable. If so there should be a white fuse holder that holds a 25amp fuse. Make sure that cable has a tight and clean connection to the battery post. That wire provides power to the main ECU and fuel pump relay. Also check the little black plastic box on the driver side fender. The cover slides off and there are some wires that connect there. Make sure all your connections are tight. Also, who is testing your alternator and what are they using to test it? Do they put a load on the car while testing? You cannot get an accurate reading with a multimeter. Also make sure all your connections to the alternator are tight and the belt is tight. If you do not have one purchase a Bentley manual for $40 on amazon.com or ipdusa.com. Good luck and keep us updated please!

 

Thanks that is great info we will look into those asap. I hate driving it cause it does die unexpectedly so I am thinking electrical as well. How can I tell if the fuel or bulb relay's are bad?

 

Today went to start it and now it wont start. I am starting to think its a fuel issue now

 

Changed the 25 fuse in the fender and the car is starting now but it is still dying. I am so at a loss it is not even funny I just can't seem to figure this out.

 

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Make sure the connection to the battery is clean and tight on the small wire positive post. Check for codes. Also make sure your fuel pump relay is working properly. Could be several things.and without actually seeing the car..very hard to diagnose. I mean, your crank angle sensor might be going bad, MAF sensor might be weak, fuel pump relay, connections may be loose, blown head gasket, bad ECU etc etc etc...start with the stuff you can check I.e codes, fuel pump relay, loose connections etc. and then if that doesn't work have it towed to a trusted.Volvo mechanic. Good luck.

 

The fuel relay is good I believe it is clicking on when I start the car so I assuming that is a good thing. Someone told me it could be the ignition coil. I have no idea where that is or how to check it. I really don't want to go to the mechanic don't want to spend money if its something simple. We have checked the battery connections and such and can't seem to find anything. Thanks for your help guys I will keep you all updated

 

a 90s 240 could have either bosch or regina ignition, the coils are quite different. either way, locate your distributor, and find the center wire and follow it back to the coil. a bosch coil looks like a baby's bottle with the HV wire coming from the 'nipple' and a couple more wires coming off spade lugs next to it.... the regina coil is a rectangular transformer thing.

 

try and

Hold the relay in your hand and turn the key to on position. Does it click? Now still holding the relay try and start the car...does it click again? If it keeps clicking uncontrollably or does not click at all then either 1. The connection at the positive side of your battery is not tight..or 2. bad fuel pump relay. When does car die? Does it sputter and die or just turn off? Have you checked for codes yet?

 

It dies usually when I am driving at various speeds. If it has just died it will start for a second in idle then it will die. It does not sputter just shuts off. But as I am pushing on the gas before it dies nothing happens car just keeps slowing down then all the dash lights come on. I have noticed that my overdrive light no longer works but I can here the relay for it clicking on. Also after it dies I have to wait a min or so for it to start up again. When it does start up there is a loud belt squeaking noise.

 

the overdrive light is *probably* unrelated.

the fact that the engine restarts a second later in idle then dies could be from residual fuel pressure (not enough to run at speed, but there's just a bit more in the loop to idle for a second), so this doesn't eliminate an intermittent problem with fuel pump electricals.

the loud squeaking belt is somewhat disturbing. Does it also do this when you cold start it after its been parked, and not stalled? Or does it only happen right after its stalled? On a 240, there's a pair of belts from the crank pulley to the alternator. There's another belt from the crank pulley to the A/C compressor clutch pulley, and a belt from the A/C clutch to the power steering. I'd check the condition of all these belts, if they are glazed or old or cracked, I'd replace. If the a/c compressor is seizing up, this can burn that belt and leave you without power steering.

The stalling might be an intermittent ground or power problem between the dashboard and the battery+alternator. I'd get my nose under the dash with a flashlight and check the wiring condition. find the grounds, and verify they are clean, ditto the wiring to/from the fuse panel. black wiring is ground. red or brown is usually +. solid red is always-on.

if there's a bunch of corrosion in the under-dash wiring, ugh. car probably was getting damp inside from plugged drain lines, or a seeping heater core that wasn't serviced. at some point, that becomes 'basket case'.

You never did say if you'd checked for any OBD codes in both jumper #2 and #6. I posted a link to a 'how-to', this requires no tools, just follow the procedure and read the LED. Catch-22, if the ECU and ignition modules are losing all power (or ground) during this failure, they might forget any codes.

 

The symptoms you describe are the same as the symptoms that relate to a weak crank angle sensor...I have had several 240's come in with this exact problem and the first time I ran into it I drove myself nuts! Now I cannot say 100% that this is your problem without actually seeing the car but it definately sounds like it. First, please pull codes on terminals 2 and 6 and see if the computer has stored any. Also, have you checked to make sure that the cable that has the 25amp fuse on it has a tight and clean connection to the positive battery post? Have you tested the fuel pump relay properly? Have you checked all your wires and make sure none of them are marking on the block? Checked your cap for cracks? This sounds like an ignition problem or loss of spark if it just turns off. 1. Pull codes 2.Check the connection of the wire that has the 25 amp fuse 3.Check your fuse panel and make sure all fuses are tight and corrosion free 4.Check all your wires and make sure none of them are exposed and marking on the block. 5.Check your fuel pump relay If all checks out and tests good most likely and common causes are crank angle sensor, ECU, ignition module and could also be a coil but unlikely. Also a bad MAF sensor will cause your car to die but usually it would sputter out or have a lack of power then die not just shut off like a switch....I would test it too though just to be sure. Good luck!

 

x2 ????

 

Ditto what volvoguy2323 said: crank angle sensor. It's about a $60 part. Usually it first fails when it gets hot. It's a bastard to diagnose because of its intermittent nature when it goes out.