Good afternoon fellow volvo peeps. I need some help or advice. I installed the new rotor and cap as well as the thermostat. The car is firing but won't turn over. Any help? Bunchman

 

double check the firing order... we've all messed that up at least once :-)

 

You mean, it's turning over but not starting (firing up)?

Is the rotor seated correctly, the cap on with the notch in place and both clips snapped on well? If the car ran well before, the problem should be with what you did, and the thermostat won't cause a no start...

 

Okay. Bunchman here. I successfully replaced the rotor and distributor cap and installed the thermostat.. Misty fired right up and I took her out for a spin and everything seemed okay and then she died at the stoplight again.We went on the freeway and she was really running strong, I mean she sounded great. Tonight when I pulled into a parking lot she wanted to die right when we came to a stop unless I put her in neutral. Upon pulling out of the parking space in reverse, as soon as I went to shift into drive she died so I had to put her in neutral, start her, put it in drive and go. She sputters a little bit in park when I give her some gas sometimes. The hesitation out of the start is still there and tonight she did it a couple times not just the one in the beginning. As always all comments are greatly appreciated. So, any ideas?

 

I'd see if the idle air controller isn't gummed up. remove it from the car, apply 12V to the pins with some jumper wires, and see if the shutter opens/closes/ smoothly. clean it with throttle body spray cleaner... plan on needing new hoses to reinstall it, as the old ones are likely so hard they are cracked or will crack when you remove/reinstall it.

 

I took it out and cleaned it a month ago. It was dirty but I got it to "click-clack" pretty freely. I did not however perform the voltage test you describe. I suppose I could try it.

 

Misty may have a MAF sensor problem, what you describe sounds like it, they are erratic like that... Seriously doubt that the Idle Valve has anything to do with this...

 

Lev, thank you for your input. So do you think I should look for a better, or more original, MAF than the Chinese one I got of the Internet? What about the TPS? I already have a fuel filter. Should I put it on?

 

Another part you may want to look at is the Power Stage, AKA Ignition Amplifier.

I definitely advise against a Chinese MAFS. Some parts you just can't be cheap with: sensors, relays, etc, not too many fortunately but on these cars even OEM stuff is cheap compared with newer cars. I have a couple of spare used MAFS, OEM.

The TPS I don't think is at fault here unless you disturbed it recently and it is out of adjustment.

The FF you can replace but it has nothing to do with your problems; I never replace FF unless obvious fuel starvation under high demand, like high speed driving. In my 50 years of working on cars I've replaced may be two FFs and that's when I was "throwing" parts at problems I couldn't solve. I know, many will disagree with this but there it is, my experience.

 

Good morning lev, I don't know where you are but it's 9:30 here, I don't know what the power stage AKA ignition amplifier is or where it's located but I'll look in one of my books.

I've never fiddled with the TPS I think the only time I came in contact with it was when I was cleaning the throttle body and I took the throttle body off, right?

I don't want to "throw parts at a problem" but since I've already purchased the fuel filter and I have it ,;I may as well put it on. I mean the car set for six years so I don't know maybe there's something settled around the entrance or the exit of it I don't know.

Again, I am not a mechanic. thank I am just a humble Junior apprentice member who is grateful for all your help. Seriously, I thank you for your time and input.

Mutton for all!!!!!

 

Sorry for the spelling 😉

 

I don't think an 85 240 has a ignition amplifiier aka power module, I bleieve the 'chrylser' ignition drives the coil directly. its the 89+ LH2.4 cars that have EZK bosch ignition that have a power module on the left fender driving the coil.

 

the TPS on these cars is just an idle switch, its closed when the throttle is at idle, and open otherwise, and it tells the ECU to manage the idle speed. quick test is, with the car off, manually gently open and close the throttle and listen to it click ? better test is to disconnect it, and hook up an ohm meter across the contacts, and verify you get 0 ohms closed and open circuit when its not closed.

 

Sorry, I didn't pay attention to the year... All my Volvos are '91 and newer, I am not too knowledgeable about the Chrysler ignitions...

 

Please, don't apologise. I am so grateful for all of your help and input. Like I said, I'm not a mechanic but I am an enthusiastic apprentice.

 

yeah, the chrysler ignition system is kinda odd, it was 240 only afaik, and nothing like the rex system used on some 740/940's. the ICU is on the right fender behind the headlight, and has a vacuum bellows right on the lower side of the ICU module. it has a high current output to drive the coil pin 1 directly.

 

She gets an A+ 🎆 Misty! Misty! Misty!

 

As long as you are happy...

 

I am happy. As a matter of fact, I've never participated in a forum like this or of any kind. I forwarded the link to my mom and to quote her she said "that's a riot!" in response to some of the exchanges. Anyways, the saga continues. The issue with my tail light or brake light is continuing. I cannot figure out how to adjust the button that is depressed by the brake pedal arm to turn on/off the brake light. When I park the car I take out fuse number 7 so I don't drain my battery. Today, a leak in my exhaust pipe has emerged. It's where the down pipe meets the lateral pipe before the catalytic converter.

 

Try lifting the break pedal, with your foot, to see if the light goes off--the spring may be tired... As far as adjustment, you just have to loosen the nut, that's a better solution over the long term.