I'm having difficulty finding out what is causing my problem here and diagnosing it right off the bat.

Two weeks ago while merging onto the expressway, I was attempting to merge into the middle lane as mine was coming to an end. Thanks to one lady who would not let me over, I had to downshift into third at 60 mph. When I did, I heard a pop, and it popped out of gear. I was able to shift back into all of the gears fine after that, but I kept hearing a ringing sound in my shifter. I figured it was just something loose like a piece of plastic since I had taken it apart before and there was some cracked plastic, so I've been driving around like that since.

So, fast forward to yesterday. I had been driving normally in a mix of city and highway driving without issue until I hit a traffic jam. Upon attempting to shift into second it felt a bit odd where it wasn't in fully and when I let off the clutch, the gears would grind and pop out. It kept doing this in second gear and a few times when I went into fourth. I would think that it was engaged, let off the clutch, and it would grind and pop out. I made it to a friend's house and I was thinking it was the synchros.

While driving home I forced the shifter harder into 2nd and 4th and never had any issues with it popping out or grinding. I had to put some force into it to get into 2nd and 4th though and make sure it was locked in. Before, it seemed to feel a bit off or weird when it was grinding like it wasn't fully in gear even though the position of the shifter suggested otherwise.

So, I tore apart my shifter and looked underneath to see what was up. This is the first time I've done this ever and didn't know exactly what I was looking for. I moved around the rubber parts and saw underneath where I noticed a frayed part. I went underneath to get a better look and saw that the one joint? was cracked and atop of it was the fray. Again, I'm not too familiar with the different parts or if this would even affect the 2nd and 4th gears being engaged/grinding but if anyone had some insight, I'd appreciate it!

Thank you in advance! If there's anything else wrong (which I'm sure there is, let me know)

Link to pictures - https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...thint=album%2c

 

your flexdisk looks /awful/ and should be changed ASAP. if that breaks under power, its bad. very bad.

I dunno what that frayed thing is but i've never touched a volvo stickshift.

the main shifter input to the transmission is a shaft that slides forwards/backwards and rotates left/right as you move the shifter lever in/out and back and forth. this shaft has the shift forks on it which select the appropriate gear.

 

Thanks, Pierce. That input shaft seemed fine when I had it apart and was shifting it into gears at rest with the clutch depressed.

That flexdisc is definitely on my list to do asap as well. I wasn't sure exactly what it was called.

Also, any other parts that I need to order along with the flexdisc, and is there an online DIY?

 

I took this flexdisk out of a Mercedes E320 wagon I bought my wife. way way past overdue for replacing, especially with the 220 HP 230 ft-lb benz straight 6 pushing a 3500 lb (empty) wagon,...



bigger...

 

depending on the shape its in, I'd consider doing the center bearing rubber bushings, too. on the benz, the flexdisc bolts are single use, so I replaced all the hardware, but all my volvos are automatics, and those don't have flexdisks.

 

Bad rubbers!

You need new guibo, trans mount, AND not in your pics and very hard to replace; your front shift cage bushings are prob shot too causing shifter to hit guibo.

 

I think you can still buy shift cage rubbers from dealer. Get 4 new ones and also do your shifter plastic bushings and I recall there being one black oring there too!

 

I have heard aftermarket guibos can suck, but on a stock car prob will be OK, but price out the dealer one anyways.

 

revolv, can you please stop posting 3-6 one liners in a row? you can edit your own posts if you have more material to add...

 

I have been aware of the bad etiquette, my bad. I just have issues when on the mobile with the page jumping around from ads loading and when editing have come very close to deleting entire posts. How long is edit timer anyways?

Oh, on topic.... get your driveshaft BOLTS TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT. Had one fall off before!

 

torque wrenches are the novice mechanics friend. you really should have two, a 3/8" drive for moderate torques and a 1/2" drive for the big stuff. a big torque wrench set for a small torque is not very accurate.

 

Thanks for the help, guys.

Got some parts ordered and going to hopefully work on it this Saturday. My brother is a mechanic, so I'm sure he could help if I get into any trouble, but is this something that I can do with not too much experience (the disc/guibo)?

Looking at the one DIY guide for a BMW, it didn't look too bad if I mark everything properly and support the driveshaft while it is disconnected.

 

I strongly suggest you inspect your shifter bushings UP FRONT where shift "cage" bolts to tranny. A blown guibo wont cause tranny to pop outta gear, but the guibo hitting the shifter sure will! This also causes the set screw at bottom of shifter to get destroyed. If you ever want to change your shifter bushings, front or rear, I suggest a NEW set screw from dealer. They strip from previous mechanics too.

The job is medium difficulty. Make sure rear wheels are in the air and parking brake is off so you can spin the driveshaft. Pay attention to the orientation of the bolts, soak em in oil for as long as you can before the job, and make sure you get them TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT without stripping em with a crappy open ended wrench. Use a socket where you can, and box wrench end where you can.

 

Happen to know the size of the bolts off the top of your head? I might head out to a dealer to grab the cage bushings since they are on backorder from IPD.

 

my other goto source for volvo aftermarket parts is www.fcpeuro.com ...

if i need dealer stuff, I go to Volvo Parts Webstore - Shop Authentic OEM Volvo Parts Online BUT you HAVE to have the part number for older cars, as they don't index anything older than 940's.

 

What bolts? I assume the driveshaft bolts. Off the top of my head I think they are 17 and 19mm.

Well a blown raggy guibo would cause it to pop outta gear I guess. Just something to think about. But what happens is, all the force from the driver pushing down on the shifter over the years blows out the oily bushings at the front of the cage. Its probably raggy from hitting the shifter. Too hard to say from here which came first!


Ok so I looked at your pics again. Its really too hard to tell from here, but your set screw on shifter looks ok. Your front shifter cage bushings COULD BE OK. Your tranny mount is toast. looks like the sag caused misalignment in the guibo and blew it to bits. Your nuts/bolts for the guibo look moderately stripped. I suggest finding new hardware so you can get it to my spec of TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT so you don't lose a bolt going 100mph!

 

Sorry, screws. Or will do they just sell them as a set for the bushings? Trying to do too many things at once!

Edit: Thanks!!

 

I don't understand.

You just reuse shifter cage bolts up front at the tranny unless they are broken or stripped for some strange reason. I bet they haven't been touched since the car was built. uh....idk what to tell ya. You just need four new bushings. They come new as a GREY color and you lube em up and pop em in. GOOD LUCK getting a socket on there though. Its gonna be tough to do it with the tranny in the car as far as I can remember. Maybe not.

But again, after looking at your pics, I strongly suggest new guibo bolts. They won't be cheap, but that driveshaft at 100mph goes very fast and it's not something to mess around with.

It also appears you live in a harsh climate. New bolts is the proper way to go. Also, you will probably strip those old nuts on guibo unless you soak the crap outta them with oil for at least a day beforehand. Especially using hand tools.

I would also inspect the bottom of shifter very closely for signs of contact with guibo. It looks like I see some scratches on it going in the direction the driveshaft spins. If you see signs of contact, strongly consider how you are going to get those front shift bushings done. If you do NOT see any signs of contact. You probably have some life left on em and can get away with leaving the old ones in there if they turn out to be too hard to change.

 

Sorry, meant the guibo bolts.

As for the trans mount, it looks pretty straightforward (there's just the one, correct?). Any special directions?

 

re: rusty fasteners, AeroKroil is hands down the best penetrating oil there is. PB Blaster is 2nd best. most everything else is also-ran.

for difficult stuff, spray Kroil on it, wait a few hours, spray a bit more. if its still stubborn , then whack the nut with a hammer a few times, spray a bit more and wait some more... (and ALWAYS use 6-point sockets!!! 12 pt sockets are bolt destroyers). in extreme cases, I use a butane microtorch to heat up the nut a bit (don't breath the fumes from Kroil, I'm sure they are toxic).