Volvo 740 running issues
#1
Volvo 740 running issues
My car was intermittently stalling and eventually wouldn't run. I replaced the coil, ignition module, cap and rotor, plugs and wires. Still nothing, I ended up taking it to a shop and it turned out the ignition module I bought was defective. So the car is running now but I'm having a problem with a fluttery tach and when I accelerate the car backfires and sputters like crazy. The tach has never been fluttery before nor has it ran rough before. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
the tach is driven directly off the coil pin 1, with a red-white wire. pin 1 is what fires off the spark, and comes from the power module, which in turn gets signaled by the ICU (which is under the dashboard), based on either the hall sensor (for LH2.2 cars up to 1988) or the crank position sensor (LH2.4, 1989+)
what year is this 740, and is it turbo or normally aspirated ?
what year is this 740, and is it turbo or normally aspirated ?
#3
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#7
I appreciate the help, everything I replaced was brand new. The ignition module was brand new but still ended up being defective, I've put the old coil back on as well but still no change. I don't have the old cap and rotor but it did run okay with the new ones when it was stalling intermittently before. I'm not sure what else to check this is getting pretty frustrating!
#8
the tach is connected to the INPUT side of the coil, suggesting the problem is upstream from it, which could be the crank position sensor, the ICU (ignition control unit), or the Ignition Power Module that you've replaced twice, or the wiring between these things
I'd likely be getting inthere with a test light, and looking at coil pin 1 to confirm its 'jittery' and not a steady series of evenly spaced blinks, then I'd look at the input signal to the power module, if thats also jittery, I'd wonder about that crank position sensor. ICU's are usually rock stable reliable on these cars.
I'd likely be getting inthere with a test light, and looking at coil pin 1 to confirm its 'jittery' and not a steady series of evenly spaced blinks, then I'd look at the input signal to the power module, if thats also jittery, I'd wonder about that crank position sensor. ICU's are usually rock stable reliable on these cars.
#9
#10
one side of the coil (pin 15, I think its a blue wire) is connected to the ignition switch.
the other side of the primary coil, pin 1, is selectively grounded via the ignition power module... when it is grounded, current flows through the coil primary winding, when the power module shuts off, the magnetic field collapses and fires the spark via the coil secondary winding.
so when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, you'll see 12V on pin 1. when the engine is running, pin 1 is rapidly pulsing between nearly 0V and 12V, a DC volt meter will probably still see 12V, but an AC Volt setting would see some random AC voltage, and a frequency meter would see twice the RPM/60 in hertz (600RPM is 10 Rev/Second, so you'd see 20 Hz since the coil fires twice per full turn.
the other side of the primary coil, pin 1, is selectively grounded via the ignition power module... when it is grounded, current flows through the coil primary winding, when the power module shuts off, the magnetic field collapses and fires the spark via the coil secondary winding.
so when the ignition is on but the engine is not running, you'll see 12V on pin 1. when the engine is running, pin 1 is rapidly pulsing between nearly 0V and 12V, a DC volt meter will probably still see 12V, but an AC Volt setting would see some random AC voltage, and a frequency meter would see twice the RPM/60 in hertz (600RPM is 10 Rev/Second, so you'd see 20 Hz since the coil fires twice per full turn.
#11
I probed pin 1 wire (red and white) with a test light at the coil and just before the ignition module. Both spots have a steady fast pulse at idle, but when you rev the car up its a lot slower irratic pulse, like a misfire with the light. I'm gonna check out pin 1 wire and see if I can find a bad spot anywhere along it.
#12
at the power module, pin 5 is the 'input' from the ICU ... this will be a smaller signal than pin 1 on the coil, but should still trigger your test light.... if it too is erratic above idle, the problem is upstream, either the ICU (never heard of one failing) or the CPS (Crank Position Sensor)
#14
oh, note the wire at pin 5 is a coax, with the shield connected to pin 3... in between them, pin 4, is a blue wire which is switched ignition power.
power module:
pin 1 - ignition output pulses to coil, red-white
pin 2 - ground, black
pin 3 - shield for input, grey
pin 4 - power, blue
pin 5 - input signal, grey
power module:
pin 1 - ignition output pulses to coil, red-white
pin 2 - ground, black
pin 3 - shield for input, grey
pin 4 - power, blue
pin 5 - input signal, grey
#18
Alright is there anything else you would suggest trying? All the wires coming from the ignition module looked to be in great shape, but like I said it's something related to the tach as well as how it runs. I had the tach unhooked to see if that changed anything but it didn't. I'm not sure what else to do and really don't wanna take it to the dealer.
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