What kind of oil?
#1
What kind of oil?
I will be changing the oil on my 1990 volvo 240 non turbo dl this weekend. What kind of oil should I use in it? I never done an oil change on it before myself. I already have mann filter and copper rings. also, i live in austin, texas if the climate has anything to do with it.
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#6
Simply not true. If your car has been serviced properly and oil changes on time and not extended with a good oil, you shouldn't have an issue. If you did have a sludge problem, then you should do a flush prior to the oil change. The issue with Synthetic oil and old motors is that the oil being super slippery will essentially find the weak spots in the seals and leak from that. The oil it self doesn't create leaks, like some might say it just finds the weak places and goes right out!
#7
i don't know if the previous owner kept up on oil changes. so i don't know if there is a existing sludge or not. becuase of this, should i stay away from the full synthetic?
Also, my engine leaks oil because i see a oil film at the bottom in certain areas. However, my oil level stays consistent at the same level and does not drop, so the leak is not enough for me to fix(and kill my bank account). But because of this, would this be another reason to stay away from full synthetic oil?
Also, my engine leaks oil because i see a oil film at the bottom in certain areas. However, my oil level stays consistent at the same level and does not drop, so the leak is not enough for me to fix(and kill my bank account). But because of this, would this be another reason to stay away from full synthetic oil?
#8
Oil pan plug
When changing my oil today I noticed the oil pan is dented where the plug is and because of this the plug isn't a normal plug. It is a plug that has legs in the back of it which seals it extra tight to stop any oil leakage through the plug. Is this bad? I don't want to have to replace the whole oil pan because because the engine has to be taken out and not only is it costly I'm would worry it would cause other problems from the movement(like the rule if it's broke don't fix it).
#9
i don't know if the previous owner kept up on oil changes. so i don't know if there is a existing sludge or not. becuase of this, should i stay away from the full synthetic?Also, my engine leaks oil because i see a oil film at the bottom in certain areas. However, my oil level stays consistent at the same level and does not drop, so the leak is not enough for me to fix(and kill my bank account). But because of this, would this be another reason to stay away from full synthetic oil?
Sometimes that rule does worse in the long run that fixing it.... Rigging and fixing are 2 different things.
#10
the normal plug worked fine on the dented oil plan....but the shop said they could pull the dent out. it didn't go the way as expected and after trying to fix it the regular plug wouldn't fit on it anymore...hence the anchor plug. i learned from that better to leave it alone unless absolutely necessary.
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#16
I'll never claim to know more than the mfgr(which is why I originally recommended 10w30), but...
FWIW, I've been using a 5w30 synthetic blend in my street driven 245 year round for the past 100k miles with no adverse effects(3-4k OCIs). The latest 5w motor oils(synthetic or dino) are capable of maintaining enough high temperature shear strength in an aging engine while increasing cold pumpability and, potentially, fuel economy.
Thinner motor oil...its not just for C.A.F.E. anymore.
FWIW, I've been using a 5w30 synthetic blend in my street driven 245 year round for the past 100k miles with no adverse effects(3-4k OCIs). The latest 5w motor oils(synthetic or dino) are capable of maintaining enough high temperature shear strength in an aging engine while increasing cold pumpability and, potentially, fuel economy.
Thinner motor oil...its not just for C.A.F.E. anymore.
#17
#18
I have been running 5W-40 Rotella T5 in my 1990 240 sedan with a Pureolator PureONE filter here in Oregon with no issues. I run the PureONE on my 2.0 turbo Subaru (because of the 12.7lb check valve) and love it. They're worth the money. My car before the speedo went inop nearly a year ago, had 156k miles on it. It has the normal weepy seals on the block, but still runs strong!
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