760 t has no power, i think i want to buy it.
Here is the link for the 16v head conversion.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=31900
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=31900
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k.../cranktool.gif
That tool? Can i not use it? I am tight on money right now, and wouldn't normally skimp on the right tool. But if there is a trick to save me some money, that would be awesome. If not, it looks like ill just have to wait.
PS it is an auto, so sticking it in gear wont work.
That tool? Can i not use it? I am tight on money right now, and wouldn't normally skimp on the right tool. But if there is a trick to save me some money, that would be awesome. If not, it looks like ill just have to wait.
PS it is an auto, so sticking it in gear wont work.
You really should have that unless you have a really stong 3/8 impact gun or a short 1/2 drive.
Or is all else really fails pull the Radiator then use your 1/2 gun.
Or is all else really fails pull the Radiator then use your 1/2 gun.
Not sure about the price but I think pretty expensive.
I never use the tool except on turbo cars that my 1/2 gun won't fit on.
Which in 3 years I think I have only used 2 to 3 times.
I never use the tool except on turbo cars that my 1/2 gun won't fit on.
Which in 3 years I think I have only used 2 to 3 times.
Well i changed the oil, i woulda flushed it allready if i wasn't broke, i will just look at it as an opportunity in disguise. I will do trans flu and filter too when i get the chance. Your supposed to do that like every 5 or 6 oil changes. No one ever does it. The miata is expensive, royal purple is 15 a quart at work now. It sucks. Atleast it only holds 2 quarts though. I am engineering a tool. I will let you know. Cya.
When i took the crank pulley off, it was still wrong. So dont worry, the crank pulley was correct. It looks like the cam was advanced 2 teeth. So i am setting it back right now. Just confirming though, that was the correct timing mark for the cam i had circled in the small circle right, ill repost it so you dont have to look.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11882.jpg
Where the cam was lined up.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11885.jpg
The crank lined up, it is still the way as it was in the pic above.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11886.jpg
The ghetto fab east tennessee redneck crank pulley holding tool. I made it out of 1/8 inch steel.
Let me know what you think.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11882.jpg
Where the cam was lined up.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11885.jpg
The crank lined up, it is still the way as it was in the pic above.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11886.jpg
The ghetto fab east tennessee redneck crank pulley holding tool. I made it out of 1/8 inch steel.
Let me know what you think.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11891.jpg
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11893.jpg
Thats where all the stuff is lined up. Im almost certain it is correct. I turned it over with a ratchet and there was no interference. So i guess no worse than when i started right?
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/k...e/SNC11893.jpg
Thats where all the stuff is lined up. Im almost certain it is correct. I turned it over with a ratchet and there was no interference. So i guess no worse than when i started right?
Looks like you got it as long as the crank lines up as well. The outside washer that was on there the groove should line up with the mark on the block.
If all that is good then you should be good to go.
If all that is good then you should be good to go.
Man i think i put on the wires wrong i did it like alldata said so.
1,3,4,2 with cyl one starting at the 3rd post.
so this is how my back dist cap is from left to right. 4,2,1,3 is that right?
1,3,4,2 with cyl one starting at the 3rd post.
so this is how my back dist cap is from left to right. 4,2,1,3 is that right?
Oh yeah, which one is the pos wire on the coil, the red/wite right?
Edit- I meant blue, its hooked up right. I think the firing order is off. I have blue on pos and red white on neg.
Edit- I meant blue, its hooked up right. I think the firing order is off. I have blue on pos and red white on neg.
Yes the firing order is 1,3,4,2
I believe cyl 1 is the left most post in the Dist cap.
Sorry just got used to putting the wires on the cap before installing them.
I believe cyl 1 is the left most post in the Dist cap.
Sorry just got used to putting the wires on the cap before installing them.
4,3,1,2 from left to right has it moving but there is a miss.
Edit- we found a broken cylinder 2 wire. So here is my assumption. Alldata was right in a sense. It starts at the 3rd from the left, and is numbered clockwise looking at it from the back. So im an idiot. Now that it has heated up, it still doesn't start. Now thats gay. It has more power on 3 cylinders than it did on 4 before. So whats up with the no start condition.
Edit- we found a broken cylinder 2 wire. So here is my assumption. Alldata was right in a sense. It starts at the 3rd from the left, and is numbered clockwise looking at it from the back. So im an idiot. Now that it has heated up, it still doesn't start. Now thats gay. It has more power on 3 cylinders than it did on 4 before. So whats up with the no start condition.
My cheater book says
ECT
Resistance at:
-10C(14F)..................Ohm 8 260-10 560
+20C(68F)..................Ohm 2 280-2 720
+80C(176F)................Ohm 290-364
Hope that helps to test the ECT
ECT
Resistance at:
-10C(14F)..................Ohm 8 260-10 560
+20C(68F)..................Ohm 2 280-2 720
+80C(176F)................Ohm 290-364
Hope that helps to test the ECT


