Thanks in advance for any advice and guidance given.

We've been searching for a used one owner 960 and found a 92 with 130,000 on her at $2800. Any feedback of what I should look for when we get there? Also where would I find specs on the different models?

Again, thanks.

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$2800.00 sounds reasonable, I bought a 1995 940 4 door for $2500.00. It had closer to 160,000 miles on it. I drove it home with a smile on my face. Everything works, gets great milage and has a very straight body and a clean interior. After you've looked at the car let's know what your impressions of the car is and I'm sure you will have alot of people putting their two cents in.

Wedwagon

 

IN my opinion I like the 92 better than the new ones. But more comes with them.
The timing belt is a 50,000 miles belt other than the 70,000 on the newer ones.

I like the 92 suspension better than the new ones to.

Sounds pretty good to me.

 

Long story short on that 92-960.....I knew when I went up to see it that grandma/pa had owned it from day one with all reciepts but they sold it to the grandson who trashed it.....it made grinding noises when turning left and right, tires wear worn really bad as if out of alignment and at idle the whole car shook interior was pretty beat up several indicator lights were out engine seemed pretty hot after driving a short distance.

We expected it to be alot better shape considering.......on to the next 960

Thanks for the feedback

 

Too bad it was beat on so bad....Just wondering why a 92 960? What makes a 960 and not a 940? I have a 91 940 and a 95 940, what's the dif?

 

what is the dif?.......I'm new to the whole Volvo concept.....talking to someone about a 97-960 w/195xxx but has
rack-n-pinion (sp?) problems, she sent me a quote to have it replaced at about $800 hence the price of $2200...we've driven it
and dispite the steering issue would buy it for $1900 and either replace it myself or pay the $800

 

EDIT::::::: Got it for $1900, plum colored, loaded, clean carfax, new tires and she was the second owner.

 

The difference between the 940 and 940 is the 960 is a 6 cylinder the 940 is a 4 cylinder.
Body is exactly the same for the 1992 and 1993.

 

Then, if the 960 is a 6 cyl car, does it have better performance with the additional cubic inches. On the streets in the Northeast I can't say I've seen a earlier 960. I assume the 960 was inserted into the line-up to take the place of the Turbo, didn't the Turbo disappear about that time?

Oh by the way it sounds like $1900.00 was a good price for that plum colored 960. You should be able to get a rebuilt rack for a lot less that $800.00 though.

Wedwagon

 

The turbo was avalible in the 940 Till 1995 then thats when the Red engine was discontinued.

 

"Oh by the way it sounds like $1900.00 was a good price for that plum colored 960" <<--We thought so also, but Washington State DOR wants to charge me 9% sales tax on $7800 (fair market value) we're going back to have a "Declaration of Buyer and Seller" form done to reflect on some mechanical work that needs to be done.

Drove my 960 Plum about 200 miles today to get feel of her, gotta say these are a smoothe running cars with plenty of torque on the hiway.
Now for the massive questions that I came for:
1) is there online manual for the 1997 960
2) should I run regular unleaded or a better grade
3) this car feels very hot under the hood and along the fenders is this normal?
4) cold air intake mod
5) replacing the light in the fog light assembly (remove the whole unit?)
6) vinyl shrinkage on driver/pass door 8^)
more to come after I get these small detail taken care of.

Thanks for the input.......

Tim

 

1.Someone on here should be able to post a link to an online manual site.
2.I would run atleast a Mid Grade.(Starting to see alot of these cars with burn't valves from using Regular)
3.They seem pretty hot most of the time. Alot of heat generated under there.
4.You would have to custom make a Cold air kit for it. Yes it can be done.
5.For the light bulb under the light is how you get in. There is 1 screw holding the cover on then there is the bulb.
6.The Leather shrinking on the door panel is normal.(Changed tons under warranty years ago)

 

5.For the light bulb under the light is how you get in. There is 1 screw holding the cover on then there is the bulb.

I was in there and couldn't see a bulb (round cover w/phillips screw)

6.The Leather shrinking on the door panel is normal.

how do we stretch it back under the metal plate? I see the rubber along the window then themetal piece that holds the trim down
then saw pressboard when I peeled it back a tad.

 

5.Maybe the Bulb is missing already. It should be there with a metal clip locking the bulb in.

6. You would have to try removing the door panel and remove the molding and finding a really strong Glue and getting it to stretch back over. Maybe Heat will aide in stretching it back over. Then you would have to use some kind of clamp to hold it to it dried.

Never repaired any just replaced.

 

Thanks for the reply.........I'll give it another look tomorrow. Strong glue, maybe gorilla glue, I saw two torx screws in the arm rest for the trim where would the others be?

Thanks

 

The rest are clips that hold it on.
There is 3 at the bottom of the door panel. Going from the bottom up. They are white clips you have to pull down and remove. Take the trim ring off from around the innder door handle.

That should be it.

 

Thanks for the help. I found the clips you mentioned, going to a bigger job then I thought may try alternative, as for the fog lights I didn't jack the car up just crawled under (couldn't see the forest thu the trees, 50yr old eyes:-) replaced them with H3's looks nice.

Shopping for a rebuilt rack, bought the Mitchell Repair CD from fleabay (lots of info)

It seems the control arm bushings need replaced pretty often, is this common? also do you have a link for those headlight wipers? I found them once then lost them.

I may start another thread under a different topic thanks for your input.


Web


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Control Arm bushings are common to go bad.