the head gasket in my 95 960 blew last week, i have my moms 93 960. i was planning on putting that motor and maybe the tranny in my car. other than the wiriing harness, is there a problem with the engine and or tranny swap?

BTW anyone in need of some 93 wagon parts, let me know.

tyc@sc.rr.com

 

It might be easier to just fix the head gasket though. Or next, harder step swap heads if you think it is damaged.

I did a '91 engine into a '94 and everything worked out because I used all of the sensors from the '94.

The only thing that was a must was the timing belt changes, the interval on a '93 is 30,000 miles (I think) and on a '95 it is 50,000 miles. It is possible to up grade those parts but you will have to use the accessory bracket, serpentine pulley on the crank, from the '95 to make room for the wider t belt, so that the power steering pump, a/c, and alternator line up. Worth doing for me because I drive 30,000+ miles a year.

Doing both the trans and the engine at once will save some time too.

DanR '94 964 350,000 miles (115,000 on the new engine)

 

thanks,
i got the 2 motors out this weekend. man i am tired. i had to come back to work to rest.
the 93 was not that bad, the front end coems apart enough to slide the motor out. the 95 was a pain. i did not think i was going to get it out. i was just about to give up and seperate the engine and tranny. then i thought if i rotated the motor CCW and pushed it over to the left i might be a ble to get the oil pan to clear the crossmember. finally got the oil pan clear. i set it back down on the crossmember and repositioned to drop the tail of the tranny a little more and out it came. i am not looking forward to putting it back in.

the big difference between the 2 so far is the oil cooling. the 93 has an air cooled oil cooler on it and the 95 has a water cooled oil cooler. if you know how i can make the water cooled one work, let me know.

the only other problem i have right now is a torux socket broke off in one of the torque converter bolts, but that is on the 95, the bad motor.

here is what i am looking at replacing:
rear engine seal
rear seal on exhaust camshaft- had one go bad,not fun to change in the car
2 water lines to the heater core
2 radiator hoses
off course the T belt. looking at swapping 95 over to 93 stuff
front and rear seal on tranny
one or both engine mounts. a friend replaced one several years ago, he said it is common for this particular side to go bad, i just cant remember which side.

any other ideas?

 

A '95 has a 23mm belt and '93 a 21mm belt. Check the tensioner hole as it may be a different thread size on the '95. Tap it out to the same size and put 95 gear in, preferably!! It'll go back in a lot easier, gravity being what it is.
Check that both are AW30/43 trannies, is yours a 3.0 litre or 2.5? I suspect the 2.5s have a AW30/40 trannie but not certain. The same trannie as AW30/43 is used in Toyotas too many models to mention and is designated A43DE or A431E. Go to www.transtec.com to find lots of articles on these trannies. Man that is one heavy sucker to work on and remove, hats off to you. Good luck!!

 

i think both are the 30/40, what ever they are they are the same so i have a spare tranny.
i pulled all the T belt stuff off the 93 yesterday. have not started on the 95. i have a bolt stuck on the torque converter i am trying to get out first. if i cant get it out soon i will have to move on.
i will check the tensioner bolt today.

 

You will be able to use the '95's oil cooler too, once you remove that large bolt off of the cooler, I think then all you will have to do is remove the threaded pipe from the block. Make sure to use the cover where the old cooler was.

DanR '94 964

 

i was looking at the water pipe from the back of the water pump housing. i dont know if it will come out. that pipe has the fitting on it that feeds the cooler on the oil filter. i dont want to create a water leak so i may just leave that alone. besides, later i will pull thehead on the 95 and i may just replace the head gasket and either sell the 95 or put it back in and sell the 93 motor.

 

duck, you were right. but! the 95 used a SMALLER bolt! the bolt hole in the 93 is too big. the only thing i can think of is to put in a time cert to reduce the hole. my volvo mech told me to stick with the 93 stuff and just change it more often. any other ideas?

 

wow, one freaking bolt has screwed me, thanks duck. that one bolt on the tensioner has put it to me. because i could not transfer the timing stuff, the 95 ac comp, even with the 93 bracket on it, would not work. i had to swap comp's. plus, i have had to swap all the ac hoses and front condensor. i had to call the guy that took the 93 and have him take the hoses off. thank goodness he still had the car.

now my problem is the oil cooler from the 93. i did not/could not swap to the 95 water cooled oil cooler because of the water pipes out of the back of the water pump.
i think those pipes may pull out but i did not want to do that now as it may cause a water leak if i do not get them back in there good.

 

Wish I had a spare car to have done this properly myself as you are doing instead of hiring a mechanic at great cost. Not worth doing unless new timing components and rear engine seal and front & rear trannie seal go in I might add. Also heater hoses and radiator hoses (these are soo easy with the engine out & cheap)
Oh and make sure new seals at the rear of cams (these are a sucker to do and many mechanics may even unmount motor/trannie to gain valuable mm b/w motor & firewall)

A new filter for trannie (these are cheap) and when all together a trannie flush should ensure years of trouble free motoring. My mechanic failed to top-up the trannie after the engine swap (and I failed to check it) and four months later a fried trannie!! I replaced the factory trannie oil cooler with a B & M unit (and bypassed the inbuilt one) so in theory I could tow a small boat for afew miles without overheating the trannie now. How's your radiator core and cooling fan relay? Make sure the connectors to this are pushed fully home (and periodically reconnected to scrape any corrosion off) Any other advice I can offer is to just really check thoroughly for leaks each day after driving for a week as these are best caught early! Have fun.

 

Yeah, I do remember that now, what I ended up doing was drilling out the hole in the tensioner to accommodate that bolt. It was a pain, but at that time I was driving 35k a year and didn't want to be doing all of those belt changes.

Now, for the cooling system, yes that pipe pulls out and is sealed by an o-ring in the rear of the pump. So you would need to do that too.

DanR