960 door speakers..simple question, please help!
#1
960 door speakers..simple question, please help!
I really just need to know how difficult the door speakers in my 1996 960 are going to be to replace. I just got a new MP3 player for it, and need to at least replace the rear door speakers. I hate pulling door panels off, and I dont want to try to take the speaker cover off only to find out that it doesnt come off, and break it! Help!
#2
#3
They're a bitch, I'm going to tell you right now. The factory door speakers are actually quite well designed. Unless you're going to be adding amps, I honestly wouldn't replace them with anything but better condition factory drivers. And why the rear speakers are they bl-own? Concentrate on your front stage instead.-
#4
#5
I just bought a set of really nice 4 way 6 1/2s to replace the either the back or the front, but decided to go with the back because they seem to either rattle a lot or maybe be blown. I dont know if the 850 used the same speakers or not, but it seems like my 850's stereo sounded a lot better! I read that both the back and front door speakers are 6 1/2s, so I thought it might just be an easy swap..I guess I should have known better. So what youre telling me is that I'll have to pry the orignal speakers out of the plastic housing, and put the new ones in that way?
#6
What I'm telling you that even pying the midbass out of the housing, your coaxial speakers still won't fit. The factory speakers use an integral tweeter bridge in the housing, making it a true 2-way speaker. They're really quite good, and more than likely will sound better than any 4-way coaxial could ever try to sound.
#7
on an early style 960 (and a early 940SE), the speaker grill slides forward towards the front of the door a centimeter or so, then you swing it out and take it off.
the actual speakers on mine are riveted to the door panel, I'd plan on drilling out the rivets. I didn't measure the speaker, but the one in the door looked to be 5" paper cone, and the one on top of he dash is something like a 1" tweeter. my 940SE '965' wagon has an amplifier near the steering column, which I bypassed when I just hooked up a stereo today, I believe this is pretty common in early 960s. any replacement speakerrs, you'll need to watch the magnet depth pretty closely, and the front door speakers can't stick up much or they would run into the dashboard.
the actual speakers on mine are riveted to the door panel, I'd plan on drilling out the rivets. I didn't measure the speaker, but the one in the door looked to be 5" paper cone, and the one on top of he dash is something like a 1" tweeter. my 940SE '965' wagon has an amplifier near the steering column, which I bypassed when I just hooked up a stereo today, I believe this is pretty common in early 960s. any replacement speakerrs, you'll need to watch the magnet depth pretty closely, and the front door speakers can't stick up much or they would run into the dashboard.
#8
on an early style 960 (and a early 940SE), the speaker grill slides forward towards the front of the door a centimeter or so, then you swing it out and take it off.
the actual speakers on mine are riveted to the door panel, I'd plan on drilling out the rivets. I didn't measure the speaker, but the one in the door looked to be 5" paper cone, and the one on top of he dash is something like a 1" tweeter. my 940SE '965' wagon has an amplifier near the steering column, which I bypassed when I just hooked up a stereo today, I believe this is pretty common in early 960s. any replacement speakerrs, you'll need to watch the magnet depth pretty closely, and the front door speakers can't stick up much or they would run into the dashboard.
the actual speakers on mine are riveted to the door panel, I'd plan on drilling out the rivets. I didn't measure the speaker, but the one in the door looked to be 5" paper cone, and the one on top of he dash is something like a 1" tweeter. my 940SE '965' wagon has an amplifier near the steering column, which I bypassed when I just hooked up a stereo today, I believe this is pretty common in early 960s. any replacement speakerrs, you'll need to watch the magnet depth pretty closely, and the front door speakers can't stick up much or they would run into the dashboard.
As pierce say...the grills slide forward to remove them (two clips hold them at the front) and the speakers were riveted in to the door panels. The front speakers are not round, they are slightly oval and the rear speakers are slightly smaller than the front. I simply drilled out the rivets carefully them marked the new position of the new JVC speaker on the door panel then used the mounting screws etc that came with the new speakers. I also found that I had to slightly modify the mounting rim of the new speakers...had to remove the edge flange in a couple of spots. I also ensured that I put the plastic protective covers over the back of the speaker as per the originals.
All went well, it took me about 45 minutes to replace all four speakers and I have not had a problem with rattles or vibration since fitting them...and the sound is streets ahead of the original speakers. I was even able to refit the factory grills over the new speakers. If I can do this, then trust me, anybody can...and its a worthwhile replacement. Next is a subwoofer...if I can find a place to fit one.
Cheers, Vince
#9
I measured the back door speakers on my 91 940SE (965) wagon, they appear to be 5.25" diameter on the speaker frame, and 5.75 center to center on the bolts. I didn't notice them being even a little oval.
they aren't -bad- stock speakers, paper cone, just nothing that great. I can easily overpower them with the 22x4 watts (50x4 'music power') of a modern inexpensive in-dash CD deck.
if you replace them with something larger, do verify that the window will go up/down without hitting your magnets. I seriously doubt a 6.5" would fit in the doors without extensive modfications and non-stock grills (and, note, those stock grills that slide forward are also helping to hold the door panels on)
they aren't -bad- stock speakers, paper cone, just nothing that great. I can easily overpower them with the 22x4 watts (50x4 'music power') of a modern inexpensive in-dash CD deck.
if you replace them with something larger, do verify that the window will go up/down without hitting your magnets. I seriously doubt a 6.5" would fit in the doors without extensive modfications and non-stock grills (and, note, those stock grills that slide forward are also helping to hold the door panels on)
#10
I measured the back door speakers on my 91 940SE (965) wagon, they appear to be 5.25" diameter on the speaker frame, and 5.75 center to center on the bolts. I didn't notice them being even a little oval.
they aren't -bad- stock speakers, paper cone, just nothing that great. I can easily overpower them with the 22x4 watts (50x4 'music power') of a modern inexpensive in-dash CD deck.
if you replace them with something larger, do verify that the window will go up/down without hitting your magnets. I seriously doubt a 6.5" would fit in the doors without extensive modfications and non-stock grills (and, note, those stock grills that slide forward are also helping to hold the door panels on)
they aren't -bad- stock speakers, paper cone, just nothing that great. I can easily overpower them with the 22x4 watts (50x4 'music power') of a modern inexpensive in-dash CD deck.
if you replace them with something larger, do verify that the window will go up/down without hitting your magnets. I seriously doubt a 6.5" would fit in the doors without extensive modfications and non-stock grills (and, note, those stock grills that slide forward are also helping to hold the door panels on)
Biggest problem with the factory fitted speakers is the centre of the speaker eventually detaches, which is why I replaced mine. A set of four after market JVC speakers rated at around 200W (Peak Power) only set me back about AUD$120. Quite reasonable I thought. These speakers fit in the factory position of my '94 960 without any modification to the door or door trim. The windows go up and down without problem and the speakers don't touch anything they are no supposed to touch...no vibration.
Also, the instructions in the pic are the speakers I retro fitted.
Cheers, Vince (Cobbershot)
#11
+1 With KenDogg. My 960 has the premium sound system and it ROCK! I believe the premium system simply has more power, a power amp installed. Another S90 I had did not have the premium system and it sounded weak. Also, the door speakers and the rear deck speakers are different. And YES, some of the speakers in these '90 model cars are interchangable, however, not the door speakers on the S90's / 960's.
I would not put any speakers other than oem. Yes you will have to remove the door panel but that is an easy 5 minute job. Here are my instructions: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...el_removal.htm
I would not put any speakers other than oem. Yes you will have to remove the door panel but that is an easy 5 minute job. Here are my instructions: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...el_removal.htm
Last edited by rspi; 11-03-2010 at 06:10 AM. Reason: addition
#12
my 91 early style 940SE/965 wagon, the doors panels remove somewhat differently than your instructions. Your 97 is the 960-II body, aka S90/V90.
A) unscrew the lock ****
B) remove the plastic quarter-turn snapscrew thing in the bottom of the door handle pocket. you don't have to remove the door handle latch trim, or the fabric panel above it.
C) remove the speaker grill by sliding towards the front of the car (the grill locks the red pins to the door panel)
D) remove the red lens from the door frame warning light (the lens itself is the lock on a pin)
E) remove the three white plastic clips from the slots in the bottom
now the door panel should swing free from the bottom and slide it up to unhook from the window frame. detach the wires from the speaker, unplug the wire that connects the door jam warning light.
A) unscrew the lock ****
B) remove the plastic quarter-turn snapscrew thing in the bottom of the door handle pocket. you don't have to remove the door handle latch trim, or the fabric panel above it.
C) remove the speaker grill by sliding towards the front of the car (the grill locks the red pins to the door panel)
D) remove the red lens from the door frame warning light (the lens itself is the lock on a pin)
E) remove the three white plastic clips from the slots in the bottom
now the door panel should swing free from the bottom and slide it up to unhook from the window frame. detach the wires from the speaker, unplug the wire that connects the door jam warning light.
#13
my 91 early style 940SE/965 wagon, the doors panels remove somewhat differently than your instructions. Your 97 is the 960-II body, aka S90/V90.
A) unscrew the lock ****
B) remove the plastic quarter-turn snapscrew thing in the bottom of the door handle pocket. you don't have to remove the door handle latch trim, or the fabric panel above it.
C) remove the speaker grill by sliding towards the front of the car (the grill locks the red pins to the door panel)
D) remove the red lens from the door frame warning light (the lens itself is the lock on a pin)
E) remove the three white plastic clips from the slots in the bottom
now the door panel should swing free from the bottom and slide it up to unhook from the window frame. detach the wires from the speaker, unplug the wire that connects the door jam warning light.
A) unscrew the lock ****
B) remove the plastic quarter-turn snapscrew thing in the bottom of the door handle pocket. you don't have to remove the door handle latch trim, or the fabric panel above it.
C) remove the speaker grill by sliding towards the front of the car (the grill locks the red pins to the door panel)
D) remove the red lens from the door frame warning light (the lens itself is the lock on a pin)
E) remove the three white plastic clips from the slots in the bottom
now the door panel should swing free from the bottom and slide it up to unhook from the window frame. detach the wires from the speaker, unplug the wire that connects the door jam warning light.
Cheers, Vince (Cobbershot)
#14
+1 With KenDogg. My 960 has the premium sound system and it ROCK! I believe the premium system simply has more power, a power amp installed. Another S90 I had did not have the premium system and it sounded weak. Also, the door speakers and the rear deck speakers are different. And YES, some of the speakers in these '90 model cars are interchangable, however, not the door speakers on the S90's / 960's.
I would not put any speakers other than oem. Yes you will have to remove the door panel but that is an easy 5 minute job. Here are my instructions: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...el_removal.htm
I would not put any speakers other than oem. Yes you will have to remove the door panel but that is an easy 5 minute job. Here are my instructions: http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technolo...el_removal.htm
The system I have in it now, albeit an aftermarket system, makes the factory fitted unit look very poorly indeed...even without an amp, it still puts out more power than the OEM unit. Much better sound. I am also looking at a one piece speaker/amp sub-woofer setup that is manufactured in France. Think it may just fit under the rear seat...will give me a bit more depth in sound.
#15
fitting anything under a volvo rear seat is going to be am amazing trick. heh.
oh! one extra bonus car stereo tip... don't use coaxial speakers on rear decks if you have a beach loving dog. in fact, don't use coaxial speakers facing up period. sand will get in between the cone and the pillar that holds the tweeter, then get into the voice coil and ruin them.
stick with component speakers (separate tweeter from woofer). and anything more than 2-way is just silliness, a properly designed 6.5" main driver can easily handle up to 1000Hz or so, where a 1/2" dome tweeter can take over and cover everything up to beyond what you can hear. 3 and 4-way systems just add more complexity and phase distortion and such.
oh! one extra bonus car stereo tip... don't use coaxial speakers on rear decks if you have a beach loving dog. in fact, don't use coaxial speakers facing up period. sand will get in between the cone and the pillar that holds the tweeter, then get into the voice coil and ruin them.
stick with component speakers (separate tweeter from woofer). and anything more than 2-way is just silliness, a properly designed 6.5" main driver can easily handle up to 1000Hz or so, where a 1/2" dome tweeter can take over and cover everything up to beyond what you can hear. 3 and 4-way systems just add more complexity and phase distortion and such.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post