Hi,

I'm a new user here, I hope I'm posting to the appropriate forum. Thanks for anyone with time to offer their thoughts.

I'm looking at a '97 960 Volvo sedan with 122,000 miles and new tires (less than 1k miles old), regular oil changes, smogged last week, full records and all features working, that belongs to a customer of my Volvo mechanic who I really trust. The person is selling it for $4,400. I know very little about cars, and don't know if this is too cliche but I looked it up on kbb, and it seems like the absolute highest it should sell for is $3,500-$4,000. But I don't know if that takes the new tires into account?

I've got an appt for my mechanic to fully inspect the car this Wednesday morning, for $180. I'm unsure and would appreciate advice regarding the following:

a) Is getting it inspected a waste of $? The seller already has all the records and is willing to share them (I'm not sure if that's before or after the sale, but I'd think if she's willing to have it inspected, she'd be fine with letting me look at her records).

b) Is there any way that $4,400 is a fair price? If not, what is an honest fair price for it, if it passes inspection fairly flawlessly? (I don't want to make an insulting offer, but obviously saving $400-$900 would be really helpful.

c) The owner (the guy I trust most at the shop) is less involved with the shop now. In the past when I asked him about purchasing other customers' cars, he has said he'd be able to talk down the seller by a few hundred. I think he'd probably do likewise here if he thought it priced too high, but given that he's there less often, I happened to speak to another staff member today, who seemed highly reticent to be involved at all.

I understand obviously that good boundaries should be observed, but I got the feeling they are more inclined to side with the other client, who has been their client for fifteen years, vs my one year, and who undoubtedly has spent a lot more $ with them. I know having an inspection is supposed to help me negotiate better, but I'm concerned whether they might not be fully honest about any flaws/older parts (the owner definitely would be), and just whether it would be better for me to ask up front if they'd lower it by $400, rather than spending $180 and then negotiating?


Thanks for thoughts on any part of this, if there's anything you think I'm excessively worrying about feel free to let me know, or any particular features of the car I should ask after, I really appreciate the advice!

 

I bought a 1995 960 about 3 months ago. Yes, your price seems high. But keep in mind that the "book" is a more vague guideline on a 16 year old car. Finding a clean, tip-top maintained car is the exception, not the rule. It usually means buying from an enthusiast who does most of their own work and knows the car really well, or someone who has the pockets deep enough to take proper care of a relatively low-value car. Sounds like yours could be the later. Mine was a one-owner car that had some front end damage. They had maintained it decently, but opted out some expensive repairs - A/C and oil leaks primarily. I gather they took a check from insurance and sold the car their next door neighbor, the guy I bought it from. He's a mechanic. He repaired the body damage and brought it up to spec mechanically. Brand new paint all over, mind you it's Maaco. It had 134,000 miles and was not in need of much work. Tires were about half tread remaining. I've bought little parts here and there, and just had my first "problem" in a leaking heater hose. The car drives wonderfully. I paid $2200 on a $2600 ask. I was just a bit under Kelly Blue Book Private Party Value at that price. The new paint and very clean interior and recent work made me believe the car was at the top of, if not above the PP value range.

I can vouch for these being very solid cars and a wonderful value if you buy them right. I wouldn't pay $4400 for a 97 in same or better shape than mine - unless it was that rare sub-100,000 mile garage queen that was handled with kid glove. But chances are few others would either. You're probably in a position to make an offer significantly lower. I would recommend the inspection. I didn't on this one, but I put a lot of trust in the obviously recent mechanical work, including new A/C (all components) and a eat-off-it clean engine compartment, along with the amazing status of zero oil leaks in a 18 year old car. I drove it, did a compression check, and made passing smog part of the deal. I found ripped tie rod boots, broken fog lights and detected some A/C compressor noise (under warranty, but still labor to replace), so I used those points to arrive at a lower sales prices.

However, I still took a risk. I had three BMWs inspected in the last year, and all three had costly issues I would not have caught entirely. I passed on two, and used the inspection as big pricing leverage on the third. I drove home in an incredible deal, because the seller gave me shop prices to reconcile discrepancies, but I did the repairs shade-tree style for a fraction. The Euro car shop I used charges 1 hour labor @ $90 for an inspection, so I'm not sure what extra you would be getting for $180. If there are other options, I would go fully independent on the inspection, not with the guys who know the car and customer. You know, the fox guarding the hen house thing. My guy actually gets excited and says "I WILL find something wrong!" It's legit, but he's working for me, not the seller. Each of the sub-$100 invoices I paid for pre-purchase inspections paid off many times over. With the Volvo, I had combination of good vibes, good luck, and a bit of due diligence. Or should I say that I had seen enough crappy 960s, a good one stood out pretty well! Had time and logistics been more favorable, I would have paid for a full inspection. You should.

The example you're considering sounds like a nice car. I like a lot of different vehicles and have few solid brand loyalties. I'd say the 960 will need a little more attention and understanding than a Toyota or a Honda. But it is a lot more car for the money. The safety features, including side airbags, place it leaps and bounds ahead of other cars of the same era. My similar-weight 2000 BMW 540i (stick shift, 4.4 liter V-8) gets better MPG and would eat the 960 for lunch in a race ... the 2.9 liter six may not be a leader in efficiency and power, but it's easy to work on and solid as a rock. My 17 year-old daughter drives herself and her little sister on a 25 mile round trip school circuit every week day. I added a $120 Pioneer audio deck - with which the stock speakers sound amazing, even by current standards. And hands-free Bluetooth phone/music streaming keeps the safety theme going. She is just this smitten with the Volvo: she had to drive mom's Lexus SUV when I replace the heater hoses. She expressed relief to be back in the 960 and said "thanks mom" but my sound system is better!

The 960 is a smooth, safe and comfortable cruiser. Including fuel and purchase price, it's cost me about $1 per mile so far to own the 960. Everyday it keeps rolling, it gets cheaper! I love value in cars. The 960 can be superb value in a great package ... best of luck getting the car for a reasonable price.