Just got a 960....1996

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Old 10-01-2011, 08:55 AM
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Default Just got a 960....1996

Hello all, just go my first Volvo, always loved these cars, and im also a VW guy...so i think this will be a good fit...

its clean, runs good has some issues...

the expansion tank leaks from the cap, as ive already read, it could be a number of things, my issue is the oil residue inside of the tank...Head Gasket?...ugh, ive has a similar issue with a Neon, and i was able to drive it for almost a year with oil in the coolant, constantly flushing it....

the drive shaft knocks leaving a light at times....i can see the issue, its a bad collar, ring, bushing deal...i need a new one, but i dont know what its called..

an the A/C is cold, but it always blows harder at the floor, as if the setting is stuck there....any thoughts??, and at idle, like at a light i get an exhaust smell from the A/C...no idea why..

aside from that....it runs great....



Ill post pics in a few minutes...

thanks for looking.
-aaron
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:38 AM
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Old 10-01-2011, 09:57 AM
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ok i found the part i need, its the driveshaft support..cheap..

as for the cooing system, never any oil, just fumes, and residue, which you can see in the picture.....so i think ill plan a head gasket in the near future...

anyone lowered this model?...im planning a few minor adjustments for this and am looking for tips, bolt ons, anything i may need to know....tricks w the intake, exhaust suggestions, and a thought or two about possibly turbo charging the motor, anyone know the specs?, i know its an inline 6, and its supposed to have about 181hp....other than that i know nothing about it....i would love to know what this motor is capable of..
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 12:25 PM
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another query, after it warms up, it seems to idle a bit rough, like a lobey hot-rod without the muscle...lol, runs smooth, and when i get to a light or stop, it seems to rock a bit....

dunno why, as when i 1st start it, it idles smooth...
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
as for the cooing system, never any oil, just fumes, and residue, which you can see in the picture.....so i think ill plan a head gasket in the near future...
You might have a very tiny leak in the radiator side tank, which has the transmission cooler.


Originally Posted by mileycyrus
anyone lowered this model?...im planning a few minor adjustments for this and am looking for tips, bolt ons, anything i may need to know....tricks w the intake, exhaust suggestions, and a thought or two about possibly turbo charging the motor, anyone know the specs?, i know its an inline 6, and its supposed to have about 181hp....other than that i know nothing about it....i would love to know what this motor is capable of..
Plenty of info and discussions on these subjects -- go to turbobricks / performance section.
 
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:07 PM
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Great thank you!!!!!
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
another query, after it warms up, it seems to idle a bit rough, like a lobey hot-rod without the muscle...lol, runs smooth, and when i get to a light or stop, it seems to rock a bit....

dunno why, as when i 1st start it, it idles smooth...
This can be due to ignition coil or coils cracked, or spark-plugs.

You should really go through Stage 0. Brickboard FAQ is another good resource.
 

Last edited by Henry10; 10-02-2011 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
an the A/C is cold, but it always blows harder at the floor, as if the setting is stuck there....any thoughts??, and at idle, like at a light i get an exhaust smell from the A/C...no idea why..
If Vent Airflow changes direction (e.g. face to feet) when accelerating -- this is usually due to malfunctioning vacuum check valves (one or both) at the firewall (engine compartment). There have been a few threads recently here (with photos) on this.

If Airflow changes direction randomly or does not change direction at all -- this can be due to malfunctioning Vacuum Controller. The fix is usually the re-soldering of cracked welds on the circuit board.
 

Last edited by Henry10; 10-02-2011 at 07:07 AM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
anyone lowered this model?...im planning a few minor adjustments for this and am looking for tips, bolt ons, anything i may need to know....
Lowering the front is relatively easier than the rear.

Front suspension is pretty conventional -- you can cut the front springs, but some people have reported problems. A more elegant solution is coilovers for the front, starting at about $ 550.

Rear suspension is a different animal -- you have IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) -- which means a complicated sub-frame. In addition, you also have no conventional springs -- but a transverse fiberglass spring that goes from side to side. And probably regular shocks, i.e. no self-leveling nivomats.

Someone (Chris, username POI in turbobricks) has modified the arms and has installed coilovers too. But he kept the leaf.

Someone else, spent like $ 2500, got rid of the rear leaf, but ended up crashing his car in his test-drive. No kidding!!!

So lowering the rear is very expensive and involved. Maybe 2 sacks of 50lbs sand might be a cheaper solution.

What helps with lessening the boat-look appearance is a custom front valance. Poi has modified a V70 front bumper for his 960, which looks nice. I for example (as you can see from my photos) went in another direction. I kept the OEM Bumper cover, but installed a gloss black 4-5 inches fiberglass / plastic band.


Originally Posted by mileycyrus
tricks w the intake, exhaust suggestions, and a thought or two about possibly turbo charging the motor, anyone know the specs?, i know its an inline 6, and its supposed to have about 181hp....other than that i know nothing about it....i would love to know what this motor is capable of..
These cars are detuned -- they are not meant to rip the drag. They are rather nice, quiet cruiser, and balancing power with fuel economy.

That being said -- intake and exhaust are pretty restricted -- you can probably get these motors to 230-250 hp by not even opening up the motor -- just by intake and exhaust mods.

Turboing has not proven to be a reliable solution. Some people have put in T6 motors, found on the S80. A couple of other people have put in LS1 V8s, from Corvettes, for mid-threes power.

Some people have put in manual transmissions too.

So yes, you can modify, even go crazy, and it will depend on your skill, will, time, and money.

Again -- do some reading on Turbobricks first...
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:35 AM
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i have and will be doing a lot of reading....and thank you....wow you have been very insightful!!!

ill keep posting updates as i do more with this car....i think its going to be a fun project!!
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:50 AM
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UGH JUST TOOK OFF MY GRILLE TO FIX IT, AND IT FELL APART....lol

pulled off the silencer tubing from the air-intake box...wow that looks like it was choking the poor car...

fixed a few rotted vacuum lines, one for the cruise, and another in the intake assembly....

another query, what is that motorizrd EGR looking devise to the left of the motor...it has a vacuum line from the intake to it?....do i need it?
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:03 AM
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as for the AC vent issue, it doesnt change.....and i pulled off the plastic cover under the glove box, but i have no idea where the board it i would need to fix....the check valve vacuum lines look ok, but ill probably get new valves just in case...there are 2 right, mine has 2...lol
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
pulled off the silencer tubing from the air-intake box...wow that looks like it was choking the poor car...
Yeah, that intake duct also takes hot air off of the top of the condenser!!! While you're there, make sure the air thermostat on the pre-heat tube works, or better yet, keep that port closed. When thermostat is stuck-open, exhaust hot air can fry the MAF in short-order.

Originally Posted by mileycyrus
another query, what is that motorizrd EGR looking devise to the left of the motor...it has a vacuum line from the intake to it?....do i need it?
Photo? Some cars did not have EGR. These cars also have air pumps (PAIR or SAS acrynims). Some people delete, some fix them. It depends a lot on strictness of State Inspections.
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:17 AM
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uploading pics now....as for the AC....even with the vacuum unit off/unplugged, it makes no diff. almost all air goes to the floor, is it possible a shutter is stuck>?
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
As for the AC....even with the vacuum unit off/unplugged, it makes no diff. almost all air goes to the floor, is it possible a shutter is stuck>?
The Vacuum Controller and the Vacuum Bellows, which operate the doors, are located beneath the Glove compartment. There are some threads on this Forum (or S90 Forum) on how to deal with them.
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:23 AM
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EGR?


AC vacuum selector thingy....one of the ports has carbon residue....






pic of the air box....there was no wiring going to any part i took off...


 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
EGR?


That's the Air Pump (PAIR or SAS, same thing). The mushroom on top of the Exhaust Manifold is simply an Air Check Valve. It is operated (opened) by vacuum by the SAS Solenoid (which is below MAF Sensor).


Originally Posted by mileycyrus
AC vacuum selector thingy....one of the ports has carbon residue....





Yes -- that's the Vacuum Controller. Some weld points on the Circuit Board can be cracked (known problem). They need to be re-soldered.


Originally Posted by mileycyrus
pic of the air box....there was no wiring going to any part i took off...

there are no wires to the Air Themostat. It operates based on the air temperature. Take out the bottom of the airbox and you will see it.


Originally Posted by mileycyrus
Is the cover to the timing belt missing?
 

Last edited by Henry10; 10-02-2011 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:37 AM
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oh you mean that weight thing on the hinge.....yeah i took it all out to frre up air flow...hmmm...with the exhaust on the other side of the motor i thought it would be ok...

as for the vacuum controller, i did re-solder the conections, and as i select vents, it clicks...it is working i think, but nothing changes, and i cant find anything on this that helps in here....thats why i think the shutter may be stuck, you know how to get to it\?

and as for the timing cover, i just took it off to inspect the belt...
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mileycyrus
oh you mean that weight thing on the hinge.....yeah i took it all out to frre up air flow...hmmm...with the exhaust on the other side of the motor i thought it would be ok...
The air thermostat is supposed to close the door to the Pre-Heat pipe, when air from exhaust is higher than 67 degrees F (IIRC). This is to help with helping the engine heat up faster in the winter. Any air hotter than that temp is harmful. Many thermostats don't work, so people close off the air from the exhaust. This is important.

Originally Posted by mileycyrus
as for the vacuum controller, i did re-solder the conections, and as i select vents, it clicks...it is working i think, but nothing changes, and i cant find anything on this that helps in here....thats why i think the shutter may be stuck, you know how to get to it\?
You can get to the vacuum bellows from the driver's side footwell, by taking the radio out and from the passenger's footwell. Vacuum mushrooms are on the driver's side, mechanism goes across, doors are on the right side.

Like I said, there are threads here with diagrams, photos and step-by-step instructions.
 
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:34 PM
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thank you, as i said, i have been searching, but you have been much more help.......
 


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