Hey anyone had similar???


the car does drive and there were no leaks but it's not safe. The tire was pressed into well and it's toed out... I had a to catch a flight so I couldn't look at it better.


Anyone had to fix something similar or same? I will not be able to look at it for another 2 weeks and I was hoping someone can remember what parts they needed.


Sorry this was last night and the pics are not 100%

 

Check my S70 fixer upper thread. The right macpherson strut was bent, and the frame was deformed just a tiny bit. The rear attachment point for the lower control arm was pushed in no more than a quarter inch. This was due to a force from the front, so yours will probably be a little different.

In a way, frame damage is big, but in another way, the junkyards are full of these cars and the frames are easy enough to remove and of very little value. So it can be fixed cheaply if you've a mind to.

 

awesome thanks firebird, that was good, I have an idea now what to expect. Not sure if AAA will tow it from NY to CT, so that's my next dilemma. I might as well get the lower control arm, ball joint and tie rod since I'm in there. I have all the tools to replace the strut it but having a 2 year old and no time I think I'm getting the loaded strut with spring, bearing and bushings.


Do I need any specialty tools for the lower control arm? Is that part of the frame a removable piece? or do need to pull out my Miller to cut n weld?

 

AAA has a mileage limit for the "free" service - its something like 3 miles max, but they can fix you up with service that will do long haul for a fee (where in NY is the car?) In terms of the control arm, there are two types on the 850s - those with the ball joint pressed in and those with the ball joint that is bolted to the control arm (my 95 has the one piece deal so I'd bet your 94 is the same). All that says is to swap out the control arm is to remove the two main bolts, then pop off the ball joint (you'd need a pickle fork type tool most likely). FCP sells the kit struts ( usually I get next day delivery if I order in the AM) and can coach you on the control arm. The control arms are really stout so I'd give it a good look over before replacing.

 

Yeah the ball joints are the bolt on type, I did them last year when I replaced the CV boots. I have a few bearing removal tools that have C-clamp style vises if I needed to press in the bushings. I might buy them with ball joints already bolted. to take them off , well, I guess some PB blaster the sledge hammy and blunt chisel is gonna get dusted off.







I'll keep u guys posted

 

I always worry about the aggravation of separating ball joints, but I have had pretty good luck with them on Volvos. They're not tapered on my cars, but I don't have a bolt on ball joint car. Those might be different.


The bolts on the strut are torque-to-yield so technically you ought to order new bolts.

 

Given the choice I'd opt for the two piece (if for no other reason than to simplify working on an axle or wheel bearing). I'd probably do things in order: 1) inspect frame mount points closely and control arm for any signs of bend (ie cracked paint or bent bolts) 2) replace the strut 3) test drive with new strut 4) consider doing the control arm after seeing how it drives. Closest issue I had to this was when I had a lower strut seat break (on a Bilstein no less) - tore up the tire (close to your house on I-84) but the donut fit with no rub. Drove home, replaced the struts and all looked good so I had an alignment and good for another 50K miles (when the darn spring seat failed...)

 

Oh WOW MT, 50K only?, I'm right off 84, but my ride is sitting in a lot in Jamaica Queens NY while I'm taking care of my dad 2000 miles away. I got some good advise here on what to do when I get back. Definitely strut and tie rod are in order then possibly ball joint. I'll take your advise on control arm if everything looks and measures up in order.