Greetings,
1) 290k miles
2) Trans. has been performing fine
3)Flashing Upshift light turns on occassionally 3 months ago.
4) Yesterday car "jumped" into 1st gear as I was coasting down a small hill. Then,
5) It took a few seconds for the trans. to upshift to a normal gear.
6)I checked the fluid; it's full but dark red.
7) I have not run a diagnostics from the car's diagnostic panel (not confident in doing this).
8) Can this be an "electical component" of the trans.?
9) What does this PNP mechanism do?
10) Can changing the trans. fluid make a difference?
11) I have a mechanic that can read the diagnostics, but he's not reall a trans. mechanic.
12) I have a trans. shop nearby but my guess is that they are not Volvo specialists.
Sorry for the information overload- just trying to cover all the bases.
Thanks for your comments and advice.
James

 

The "Volvo" procedure for checking fluid level is a little different.

1) Ensure vehicle is level. Apply parking brake and gear
selector lever to "P" position. Start and idle engine. Move gear
selector lever through all gears, while pausing 4-5 seconds for
engagement at each position.
2) Return gear selector lever to "P" position. Wait 2 minutes
and check fluid level with engine idling. Level should be between MIN
and MAX marks.

"I have not run a diagnostics from the under hood diagnostic panel (not confident in doing this)."

Now would be the time to learn. The worst you can do with that under hood panel is erase the codes. If there is a problem they will reset so you haven't lost anything.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/read-codes-volvo-850

The flashing arrow can indicate a bad PNP switch. Sometimes if you take the shifter and slowly "row" it through each gear a number of times it corrects that flashing arrow problem. All the way from "park" to "1" and back again. You should also check the transmission switch down by the window switches on the center console. Same as the shifter, switch into and out of "winter" mode a few times. Same with the other part of the same switch the "sport" "econ" selection. Rock it back and forth a few times and make sure it feels smooth and isn't binding.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=32987
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=45459

Don't worry about all the bases, just take it one step at a time. It's likely something electrical or mechanical and changing fluid while always a good idea would likely not help cure this problem.

 

Confidence is higher after learning how to de-code the diagnostic faults.
Fault Codes # 122, 323 and 332 were displayed. This indicates that both the S1 Solenoid (code #122)and SL Solenoid (code #332) are "open". What does "open" mean? Defective?
Also code #323 indicates "Lock up slips or is not engaged". Again, I don't know what this is telling me either.
Anybody have any thoughts or guidance?

 

If they are setting a code for "open" it would be like the wire is broken. If the computer is seeing infinite resistance it will report the circuit open. Exact opposite if the wire is grounded. Then there is no resistance and the computer reports it as shorted.

You have "open". So ... the solenoids are electric magnet switches, they have copper coil windings that may have broken down the insulation between the windings and arched causing the winding to be burnt and create an open. It could also be that a wiring connector is loose and not making a connection which would look the same to the computer and it would again report an open.

With those codes you want to check any wiring running to the transmission and make sure the connectors are tight. If they are, you likely need to go in and replace the solenoids. With them being bad they can cause other codes so they would be the first repair. That 323 code can be caused by the solenoid not supplying enough pressure to a given clutch.

I'd congratulate you on your higher confidence but it somehow sounds like a bad ED commercial

 

Thanks, Kiss4afrog.
With all the oil leakage under the engine (rear main seal or equivalent?), I am wondering if this oil might be wreaking havoc with some transmission wires. The "Matthewsvolvosite" procedural description of replacing the solenoids in the trans. goes beyond my current mechanical abilites. Unfortunately taking the car to my mechanic also goes beyond my financial means. There was a day when I minded my business and gladly paid my mechanic to mind his business (to mind my car's business). Now I'm needing to poke around (in my car's engine and trans.) where I don't belong.
Although the car is immobile it does make for an appealing driveway ornament.

 

Opening up a transmission isn't for everyone and I've had "that guy" walk in with a box of car and ask if I can put this back together for him

The nice thing is the better you understand it the better you can explain it to whomever you end up taking it to. It's also a great defense from having to buy a gallon of blinker fluid or an improved muffler bearing.

 

I agree completely. I've already learned a great deal more about this enjoyable vehicle. I now am armed with information to pass on to the mechanic. Thanks, Kiss4afrog, for taking the time and patience to help out.
TBC.....